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863 bobcat, oiled cooled over heating

mrgreen

Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2013
Messages
6
Location
mo.
my 863 bobcat runs about 30 min. utill it gets too hot new belt and pully no help took to dealer new headgasket no help new oil pump and ???? worked for a little while now doing the same thing again. its like oil not circulating proper, half oil cooler is real hot, other half real cold...like motor is pushing oil out of both ports, and meeting in middle of cooler and not circulating please please help...863 oiled cooled bobcat...
 

Bobcatdan

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 15, 2012
Messages
241
Location
wisconsin
Pull your dipstick out. The old style had three ribs that would break off. The deutz has three thremostats that these plastic chunks will plug. Pull them out, clean them and you should be good. Deutz normally run cold if anything so as long as the fan works and the cooler is clear, this is where I would look.
 

mrgreen

Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2013
Messages
6
Location
mo.
THANK YOU SO MUCH DAN... do these thremostats ever go bad, or weak are they just as easy to put back in as they will be to pull out??? thanks again i all over it...
 

mrgreen

Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2013
Messages
6
Location
mo.
THANK YOU SO MUCH DAN... do these thremostats ever go bad, or weak are they just as easy to put back in as they will be to pull out??? thanks again i all over it...

that didnt seem to work,Dan it seems like oil is going backwards compared to arrows on motor block??? whats next???
 

pajibson

Senior Member
Joined
May 29, 2013
Messages
312
Location
metro detroit
Ok so mine is similar 'cept different. originally called to look at the 863 for an oil pressure warning and shut down. Told them to replace the oil pressure sensor and call me back if that didn't work. It didnt, but the noticed if they leave it unplugged they can operate it except now it over heats. I put a mechanical pressure gauge on it and had roughly 35 PSI. Temps here in metro detroit have been on the chilly side(single and - numbers) the oil cooler was @ about 30*F with the engine getting so hot it went into shutdown. Other thing I noticed is the alternator is charging almost 17V.
So what I see is three different problems, an issue with the oil pressure monitoring circuit, the damn thing is overheating in freezing temps, and the overcharging. Now, how are these all related, if they are all related? Or is this a case of 3 different issues manifesting all at once?
I did find an archived thread on here that kind of touched on the overheating (of course now I cant find it again) but it boiled down to you have to block off airflow through the oil cooler in these lower temps. I told the owner that and he said he has always run this in winter and never had to do that before. So thats where I am at with this one. Anybody have any advice?:Banghead
 

crewchief888

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2012
Messages
1,796
Location
NWI
off the top of my head i cant remember what plug is what,
but i'd removed all the allen plugs on the flywheel end of the engine, pull the oil pressure relief, and thermostat, clean everything, make sure the valave slide in the bore easily
reassemble, and test again.

FWIW
some of the duetz engines that bobcat has used are over 15 years old now,
infrequent maintainance, high hours and old age are starting to take it's toll on them.

dont hold me to this,
but i believe the oil pressure regulator valve faces horizontally., thermostat faces up


:drinkup
 

pajibson

Senior Member
Joined
May 29, 2013
Messages
312
Location
metro detroit
If I get to work on this machine again I'll post any new findings. I would like to be able to post some of resolution but this company does have an in house mechanic that they have doing the actual work. So I might not hear back from them till the next time he can't figure some thing out.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jun 30, 2020
Messages
5
Location
Unity Sask
If I get to work on this machine again I'll post any new findings. I would like to be able to post some of resolution but this company does have an in house mechanic that they have doing the actual work. So I might not hear back from them till the next time he can't figure some thing out.
pajibson. I know this from 8 yrs ago but did you ever figure out the over heating issues on your 863? I have an 863 and it over heats and its -20C outside. Ive checked all the possibilities. Rads are clean, fan is moving air, lots of oil in sump, cleaned the passages thats behind those allen bolts. Looking for ideas or info Tks
 

Simon C

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2015
Messages
683
Location
Rocky Mountain House , AB., Canada
Occupation
Heavy Equipment Mechanic
Could you have a collapsed hydraulic hose that is stopping the oil from flowing properly. That could overheat the oil. Just something to consider, as it is hard to tell a collapsed hose internally versus a kinked one or squeezed one. Just some easiier things to check.
Simon C
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,407
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
pajibson. I know this from 8 yrs ago but did you ever figure out the over heating issues on your 863? I have an 863 and it over heats and its -20C outside. Ive checked all the possibilities. Rads are clean, fan is moving air, lots of oil in sump, cleaned the passages thats behind those allen bolts. Looking for ideas or info Tks

pajibson hasn't logged on since last November.
I doubt he will see your question.
Send him a private message.
HEF will generate an email and send it to him.
There is a chance he won't get it or respond to it.
 
Joined
Jun 30, 2020
Messages
5
Location
Unity Sask
Could you have a collapsed hydraulic hose that is stopping the oil from flowing properly. That could overheat the oil. Just something to consider, as it is hard to tell a collapsed hose internally versus a kinked one or squeezed one. Just some easiier things to check.
Simon C
Yes I have thought of that. The hose that leads from engine throu rads gets hot but exit hose is still cold. I have thought of a collapsed exit hose. But here is something that happened today. Its -13c and Im plowing snow. The heat gauge gets into red after 3/4 of an hour so I stop to let cool down. Exit hose from rads are cold. Gauge reads in green so continue plowing snow. Watch gauge and it starts to stay in green. Plow for half hour then quit. Checked the hose and exit hose from rads is hot. So why all of a sudden does the oil start to flow throu the rads and back to engine? I would think if hose is collapsed that it wouldnt let any throu. Im running 15W40 oil and wondering if oil gets to thick in rad that it wont flow when it gets to cold?
 

Nige

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
29,747
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
Im running 15W40 oil and wondering if oil gets to thick in rad that it wont flow when it gets too cold?
The general opinion from people in your neck of the woods is to use something like an 0W20 or 0W30 for engine oil to get the cold start and flow characteristics. 15W40 would be considered as an oil for temperate/sub-tropical climates in my experience. From another thread.........
We put 0W-20 TDTO in every skid steer we repaired or serviced unless the customer specified otherwise. We'd see temperatures of -35°C and never had any real issues. Even cold starts in the yard you'd never hear the pump making cavitation noises and the machines were suprisingly responsive when cold.

Good news is TDTO 0W-20 covers a very wide temperature range in a skid steer. I don't have SIS anymore so I can't quote the exact numbers but in that region it was good year round.
 

92U 3406

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Jan 3, 2017
Messages
3,237
Location
Western Canuckistan
Occupation
Wrench Bender
The general opinion from people in your neck of the woods is to use something like an 0W20 or 0W30 for engine oil to get the cold start and flow characteristics. 15W40 would be considered as an oil for temperate/sub-tropical climates in my experience. From another thread.........
The only engine oil that was available off the bulk reel at the dealer location I was at was 0W-40. If my memory is correct it covered pretty much the same temperature range for summer operation as 15W-40 but offered a much lower winter temperature limit.
 
Joined
Jun 30, 2020
Messages
5
Location
Unity Sask
The only engine oil that was available off the bulk reel at the dealer location I was at was 0W-40. If my memory is correct it covered pretty much the same temperature range for summer operation as 15W-40 but offered a much lower winter temperature limit.
Thanks for the info. Was considering 5W40 but will see whats is available from my oil dealer. My bobcat sits in a warm shop when not being used so not to worried about cold starts but the lighter oil will be better for working in the cold.
 

Nige

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Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
29,747
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
The only engine oil that was available off the bulk reel at the dealer location I was at was 0W-40. If my memory is correct it covered pretty much the same temperature range for summer operation as 15W-40 but offered a much lower winter temperature limit.
Agreed. The only difference between 0W40 & 15W40 is the difference between a viscosity of around 20cSt for the 0W20 and around 5 times higher @ around 120cSt for the 15W40 at the lower measurement point of 40DegC. At the higher measurement point of 100DegC the viscosity of both oils would be the same, somewhere around 14-15cSt

Sorry I forgot on the quotation I posted was regarding hydraulic oil but the same general principle for cold starting would still apply.
 
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