6 wheeler struggling up hill with a full load

[Nick009]

They are missing on the driver side so hopefully thats a good thing.

OzDozer, thanks for the info. I think I could probably do it but I would be slow and stressed that I might mess it up. I live in the hills near Mundaring so Bayswater is actually pretty close. Perhaps I will go and see him and get a quote. Please send me his details if you can.

do any of you guys own skidsteers? I posted a problem in the skidsteer forum the same day as I posted this problem but haven't had any replies. You guys are so helpfull perhaps you could take a look for me https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...inding-grating-noise-when-I-turn-my-skidsteer

Thanks again! nick

 

[OzDozer]

Hendrik - Yep, a right pr*ck of a job, the one you draw the short straw for. However, I've pulled out hundreds and hundreds of similar busted bolts in earthmoving equipment for years, with usually 99% success rate.
Yes, they would be HT bolts, at least Grade 5 imperial (10.9 ISO), or possibly even Grade 8 imperial, which is 12.9 grade ISO. You use good quality cobalt drills and have plenty on hand.
The other technique, which works if the bolts are flush or protruding slightly, is to weld a nut on them and screw them out. A 150-170 amp MIG with a small diameter wire, or a handyman arc welder with 2.5mm (12 ga) rods are necessary tools, then.

 

[OzDozer]

Nick, the blokes name is Joe Versace (Ver-saaa-chee), and his address is Unit 11, 26 Wotton St, Bayswater, alongside the GreenDog Truck depot. Here's his full contact details;

http://www.yellowpages.com.au/wa/ba...-mechanical-contractors-12996243-listing.html

He doesn't rush to answer the phone, so keep trying until he does. He doesn't do as much truck repair as he used to, he reckons it's too hard on him, so he prefers cars nowadays. However, he'll still take on some truck repairs.
Don't be put off by the scrappy-looking old shed, or the junk lying around the adjoining units, Joe is one of the nicest blokes you could meet, real old-school - and what he doesn't know about trucks, you couldn't write on a grain of rice.
He's 67 or 68, and doesn't work full time any more - he retired, then came back to work. There's not many men with his abilities left. If he can't do the job, he'll put you onto someone who can.

 

[Nick009]

He sounds awesome, thanks mate, very much appreciated.

 

[Soodude]

Hendrik - Yep, a right pr*ck of a job, the one you draw the short straw for. However, I've pulled out hundreds and hundreds of similar busted bolts in earthmoving equipment for years, with usually 99% success rate.
Yes, they would be HT bolts, at least Grade 5 imperial (10.9 ISO), or possibly even Grade 8 imperial, which is 12.9 grade ISO. You use good quality cobalt drills and have plenty on hand.
The other technique, which works if the bolts are flush or protruding slightly, is to weld a nut on them and screw them out. A 150-170 amp MIG with a small diameter wire, or a handyman arc welder with 2.5mm (12 ga) rods are necessary tools, then.

a real nice way also Oz is get left handed drills, most of the time they'll catch and twist them out for ya....

 

[MitchSA]

Did you sort it out mate?

 

[Nick009]

Not yet, I'm booked in to see Joe next Tuesday so I'll have more to say then.
Cheers

 

[Nick009]

Ok I'm back with an update. Joe wasn't really into it because he's has a bad back and that it totally understandable. He recommended someone else who recommended someone else who gave me a quote upwards of 3000 to do it properly. He wanted to take the gearbox out and the bell housing and it was sounding very expensive. he said it could be up around 30hrs labour @ $100/hr odd.

In the end a friend of mine who works at a truck body builder arranged with his boss so we could use his workshop on the weekend. We released all 3 engine mounts and then lifted the drivers side of the engine with a crane so it rolled a bit and gave us easier access to the holes. turns out one bolt was still in, two were snapped off and one was missing in action. We put grade 8 high tensile bolts in with hardened spring washers instead of using loctite. In case it happens again loctite would make it hard to get them out. The one that had fallen out seemed like the thread was stripped inside but we used a longer bolt and it seemed to bite. All up it took 3 hours.

It drives very differently now so I'll see what happens and keep an eye on them.

Thanks for all your help guys.

 

[51kw]

Have ALOT of experience with that situation. You need locktite on those bolts! You will never keep them tight if you dont put new rubbers in the motor mounts. Fought this for years on the same truck, couldnt keep the bolts toght no matter what we tried. Had an old boy told us to put mounts in and it solved the problem. 3 years and still tight! Remember that housing is aluminum.

 

[Nick009]

Damn there I was thinking I had it all sorted. So new rubbers are the key. I will try and source some new rubbers. Can you explain how to install them? its my first truck so I'm learning a lot as I go. Ho do I get the old ones off? are they glued on or do they just sit there?

cheers

 

[Hendrik]

We put grade 8 high tensile bolts in with hardened spring washers instead of using loctite. In case it happens again loctite would make it hard to get them out. The one that had fallen out seemed like the thread was stripped inside but we used a longer bolt and it seemed to bite. All up it took 3 hours.

Using loctite is not a drama, loctite and heat are not friends.

 

[51kw]

The rubbers just sit there. Easy swap. Get all 3, both sides and the front.

 

[Nick009]

Using loctite is not a drama, loctite and heat are not friends.

Ah I didn't know that...wouldn't it come loose when the engine is hot though? how hot are we talking here Hendrik? electric heat gun or blow torch?

The rubbers just sit there. Easy swap. Get all 3, both sides and the front.

That's the best news I've heard all day 51kw, thank you!

 

[Hendrik]

Ah I didn't know that...wouldn't it come loose when the engine is hot though? how hot are we talking here Hendrik? electric heat gun or blow torch?

A quick search would indicate that temps above 150-160 C would do the trick.
http://au.iloctite.com/en/red-loctite-threadlocker
http://www.loctite.com.au/cps/rde/xchg/henkel_aue/hs.xsl/threadlocking-4043.htm
So it may not work on applications like exhaust manifold studs but should be no dramas on engine mount bolts.
It is advised to get some primer to clean the threads.