580SE Lucas Injector Leak

[Vetech63]

YIKES!!!!

 

[Ed1]

Thanks pumpguy! Gasket/O-rings will be here Wednesday to rebuild Thursday. Today/ tomorrow it's removing gland nuts to rebuild leaking cylinders!! Oh the Joy's of heavy equipment!

 

[Ed1]

Alright, you guys can say I told you so if that kind of thing makes you happy!

I cleaned around the pump very well. I CAREFULLY took the top cover off making sure I noted the position of the spring on the throttle linkage and the clevis in the governor arm. I replaced the o-rings on the throttle shaft and shutoff shaft. I had to scrape off the old gasket, it was a real mess and it made sense why it was leaking between the pump and cover. I plugged the holes in the pump before scraping to prevent any crap from getting in there. I got both sides nice and shiney and installed the new gasket. I put the cover back on EXACTLY how it came apart. I should have mentioned before I took it off I replaced the inline fuel filter/fuel filter/water separator. I tried to turn off the fuel shutoff coming out of the tank but unfortunately it didn't work, so when I replaced the inline I lost a lot of fuel. It didn't want to start so I followed the bleeding procedure but the manual lift pump doesn't work. I was able to get it primed though by cracking the bottom screw and using the ignition to turn over the motor, then did the top screw and it fired right up. After rebuilding the cover, I can not get it primed at the bottom screw. The first screw in the procedure, above the filter/ separator blows fuel fine, but nothing out of the bottom screw. It'd be so much easier if the manual pump worked!! Anyway, is there a common reason I'm overlooking for why I can't get it primed to the bottom of the pump?

 

[Ed1]

Oh, one other thing... I had to replace the line that goes into the top cover. The nut was stuck on the line and twisted when taking it off, so I put a brand new line on.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Are u talking about the bleed screw by the name plate on the inj. pump??
U cant get fuel THERE.?? it has to have fuel THERE if its running..
The top bleed screw on the top cover.. is just a vent & u don't need to mess w/ it.. all the air will go out that line u broke/twisted/replaced.
U NEED A NEW SUPPLY PUMP.. the one w/ the manual hand primer..

 

[thepumpguysc]

I sure hope u didn't nick the top cover or main pump hsg when u scraped it..??
If it starts leaking, u know u did.. DO NOT keep tightening the 2 nuts on the cover.. it will bow the cover & you'll never stop the leak & end up having to buy a cover..

 

[thepumpguysc]

Where did u buy the line & how much was it.??
I know a guy that needs one.. cough, cough..

 

[Ed1]

Yes, the screw by the nameplate.
I didn't nick either, I was careful and used a plastic scraper. Not my first rodeo with that kind of deal.
I was careful not to overtighten the DBA posts.
It was $68 total tractorpartsasap.com
So if I was getting fuel out of that bleeder before I rebuilt the cover, what didn't I do right to not get it now?

 

[thepumpguysc]

It MUST HAVE air in it.. that bleed screw is the bleeder for the air, between the filters & the pumps pumping circuit.. so if its running, it has to have fuel there..
did u take it all the way out to see if its clogged w/ rust or garbage.?? DO NOT do that while its running..
You'll get a face full of fuel once u get fuel there{unclogged}

 

[thepumpguysc]

Seeing this AINT YOUR 1ST RODEO.. how about turning the KEY ON & bleeding it.!!???
Lol..

 

[Ed1]

Lol, I learned the hard way looking at it open and having my stepson crank the ignition! It won't run, it'll fire off a shot of ether but then dies, which tells me it's not getting fuel. So are there any tricks to sucking fuel up to there? Vacuum somehow?

 

[Ed1]

I did, to open the solenoid right? Since the manual pump isn't working, I've been having someone else turn the ignition to try and prime it that way.

 

[thepumpguysc]

The last sentence in post #65 will tell u what u NEED TO DO.

 

[Ed1]

Here's their part number for that line.

 

[thepumpguysc]

IF u cant get a steady stream of fuel at the bleeder by the name plate.. it'll never run.. PERIOD.
U "could" have someone pressurize the fuel tank while u crack open the bleeder.. & see what u get..
but "it sounds like" your supply pump is dead..
Loosen the fuel line GOING INTO the pump & spin it over.. U SHOULD get wet.. IF NOT, your supply pump IS DEAD & ur gonna burn up your starter trying to get it to run..

 

[Ed1]

I hear you on the pump, I do, my reservation with that is it wouldn't manually pump before I rebuilt the cover, but I was able to bleed it by using the ignition. The only thing that's changed is I rebuilt the cover.

I'll try pressurizing it, check the bleeder isn't plugged, then check that line and see what I get.

 

[thepumpguysc]

BE SURE & fill your filters before u start testing anything..
The transfer pump built into the inj. pump might pull the fuel from a full filter & it might prime the system.??
IF u get it running, U KNOW the main supply pump is bad & your killing the supply pump INSIDE the inj, pump..
The frigging supply pumps aren't but 30-40.00.. & easy enough to change.. WHY are u fighting it.??
IF u loosen the fuel line going into the inj. pump & get nothing.. U can rig up a temp. feed using a fuel can or a 1 gallon jug w/ a rubber hose to the pump inlet.. just make sure the connection is air tight.

 

[Ed1]

That's really good thinking! I had to take the filter head off to replace that vent line, maybe there's no fuel in there. I'll try that too! Thanks for brainstorming with me man!

 

[Ed1]

You're 110% right on the pump. It's a long story man, but I was asked to get this machine going for a man in my Church. In trade for the labor he's allowing me to use the machine to dig the foundation for the home I'm getting prepared to build. He didn't want the repairs to take all Summer. I know it's dumb man but it is what it is.

 

[Ed1]

Are these the same? I can't find one exactly the same, but it's the same Case part number.