Anyone ever replace the two 1 ¾” ID x 4” long (approximate) bushings in the very last holes at the bucket end of the dipper (307186A1)? I’ve got a lot of slop either in the OD of these bushings or the ID of the big coupling bushings (D127167). I replaced all the other linkage pins/bushings last year but postponed replacing these. I can't think of a good way to get them out.
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580M Dipper Bushing Replacement
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eKretz
Well-Known Member
Got a photo? Sounds like a good application for a hollow hydraulic cylinder to me. Plop a piece of tubing under it that is bigger on the ID than the OD of your bushing to be removed, as well as longer. Put a stud through the lot, and washers and nuts on either side. Pump the cylinder to remove the bushing.
If that fails or you don't have access to such, you could try welding some beads on the ID of the bushing, that will usually collapse them. Lastly, if they're steel bushings, you could get someone who's good with a cutting torch to cut them out. A deft torch hand can cut the bushing out without damaging the bore that holds it. I've even cut nuts off without damaging threads.
If that fails or you don't have access to such, you could try welding some beads on the ID of the bushing, that will usually collapse them. Lastly, if they're steel bushings, you could get someone who's good with a cutting torch to cut them out. A deft torch hand can cut the bushing out without damaging the bore that holds it. I've even cut nuts off without damaging threads.
Hopefully this isn't too confusing. In my "diagram" the 4" long bushings are in black and the coupling bushings in red. The coupling has two bushings as shown. The dipper has two 4" long bushings pressed in on each side that extend into the coupling bushings. The ID of the coupling bushings ride on the OD of the 4" bushings. The pin that's inserted through both 4" bushings supports the bucket as shown as 34 in the second pic. The geometry here makes it interesting. I've got a hollow jack that I've never used because the connection doesn't match my Harbor Freight pump. The local hydraulic shop told me they could fix that for not a lot of $. 
eKretz
Well-Known Member
That is an odd setup. I wonder why they did it that way. I suppose it might help keep contaminants out of the fit. Is the coupling bushing a tight fit on the 4" long bushing, or a slip? Those coupling bushings may be tricky to get out with hydraulics, since they will probably be up against a shoulder. I'd go with welding a bead or few inside those.
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I know all Case 580 K, L M and N are that way. The specs call for .007" clearance between the coupling bushing and the 4" bushing. The 4" bushing is the "pin" for the coupling bushing. I'm going to check with the local Case dealership and see how they do it. Honestly, when I tear this stuff down I'm mainly making sure the bushings aren't worn all the way through into the ductile iron. So far on this machine the pins are worn but most of the bushings aren't too bad. All except these two were easy to replace so I did. There has to be a simple way to change these but I won't lose any sleep if I don't.
Tinkerer
Senior Member
If you apply any heat in the process keep in mind it will put a lot of stress on the ductile iron dipper as everything will expand.
I would avoid using any heat.
I would avoid using any heat.
eKretz
Well-Known Member
I would avoid using a torch for sure. Welding beads inside the bushings shouldn't hurt anything. There may be enough of a lip above the shoulder on those coupling bushings that you can get a bite on them with a narrow backer that's just long enough and pull them out with the hydraulic cylinder. Just going to have to have a look and see.
There is gap between the dipper and the coupling of about .100". I've thought about cutting the 4" bushings with a portable bandsaw. This would simplify the job. I'm going to try and cut an old bushing with my mounted bandsaw and see how difficult it is to cut hardened bushings.
eKretz
Well-Known Member
You will probably find that it won't cut much, if at all, with a regular bandsaw blade. But you could get lucky. A carbide tipped blade would do it for sure, but those are big bucks.
I just talked to a service tech at the Case dealer. They have a set of OTC bushing pullers that have two sides cut off. This enables it to slip inside and pull each bushing out. The threaded rod attaches to an air-powered OTC hollow ram. He said they can remove the bushings in less than an hour.
eKretz
Well-Known Member
That is the exact "narrow" backer that I was attempting to describe. Difficult to reproduce unless you have machine tools. It will need to be exactly the right size to work. Maybe you could just trailer the machine to them and have them pull the bushings.
You were on the money. If I have time tomorrow I’m going to take my porta power and hollow ram to the hydraulic shop and see if they have the fittings to make them connect. I’m sure I can fab a bushing puller that will fit. I’d like to pull it myself just for the experience.
I got fittings and was able to adapt my hollow ram to my Harbor Freight portapower pump. I fabbed an adapter out of 1/2" plate with a bandsaw, grinder and dremel tool. I cut a 1/8" tall pilot boss that aligns it inside the bushing bore. It aint pretty but fits perfectly. I can insert it sideways into the opening between the two bushings and the boss centers in perfectly when I rotate it into place. My pulling assembly was a 5" section of 2.5" pipe, a backer made from 1/2" plate, 5/8" mild steel threaded rod, nuts and the adapter. Unfortunately, the 5/8" rod was the biggest I had and it snapped immediately. I picked up a 7/8" B7 rod and grade 8 nuts but will be a few days before I can try again. Stay tuned.
eKretz
Well-Known Member
Looks like that should do the trick.
The 7/8" B7 rod with grade 8 nuts did the trick and I was able to pull both bushings out easily using my cobbled together apparatus. With my Harbor Freight 10-ton porta power, I used a 30T hollow ram from Amazon that had a female quick-connect coupling compatible with a Enerpac C-604 coupling. I bought a complete Enerpac C-604 clone on Amazon for $22 and was able to connect everything together. It seems the porta power connectors are proprietary, but I think many use Enerpac clones. Don’t use tractor hydraulic couplings (the one with sliding collars like air quick connects). They’re rated for less than 5000PSIG and porta power pumps put out 10,000 PSIG. This setup is great for removing/installing bushings on anything too big for the shop press and I only have $225 invested (in addition to the HF pump I already had). Let me know if you have any questions about putting one together.
eKretz
Well-Known Member
Posting a link to that hollow cylinder you used might help some fellas.
30T hollow ram; $175 they had a 20T for $50 less which would have been fine
fittings $22
7/8"-9 B7 threaded rod $18
If you don't have a portapower, you can save yourself some time and buy one that has a hollow ram already. The 10 ton Harbor Freight portapower is a good tool, but HF doesn't offer a hollow ram. The Enerpac setup is around $2500. This one is $385
A set of bushing drivers is useful for removing bushings. I got mine when I bought a shop press recently for came with my shop press but this set is better. There are 50 drivers in 1mm increments. These can be modified to work with the hollow ram $59:
Reach out if you have any questions. I can guide you through making your bushing puller adapters.
fittings $22
7/8"-9 B7 threaded rod $18
If you don't have a portapower, you can save yourself some time and buy one that has a hollow ram already. The 10 ton Harbor Freight portapower is a good tool, but HF doesn't offer a hollow ram. The Enerpac setup is around $2500. This one is $385
A set of bushing drivers is useful for removing bushings. I got mine when I bought a shop press recently for came with my shop press but this set is better. There are 50 drivers in 1mm increments. These can be modified to work with the hollow ram $59:
Reach out if you have any questions. I can guide you through making your bushing puller adapters.
Jay Lander
New Member
I also like to pair a hollow ram with an air powered pump. They are a little more expensive than the manual pump, but can make it a lot easier. If you don't want to use an air powered pump a two speed pump can make the work a bit easier as well, especially at the higher pressures. Just be sure to get a pump with 10,000 PSI and a 3/8" NPT port. That way it will run any sort of major brand hydraulic ram, etc.
Swetz
Senior Member
I have had the one below in my cart for some time on ebay. Just waiting for some surplus funds...LOL
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124069311378
The air powered unit is sweet! If you do not use it a bunch, it is expensive. I have both styles. The air unit is Enerpack. It came with my hose crimper. I actually use the pump unit for most of my port-a-power work
The Enerpack fittings are surely expensive!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124069311378
The air powered unit is sweet! If you do not use it a bunch, it is expensive. I have both styles. The air unit is Enerpack. It came with my hose crimper. I actually use the pump unit for most of my port-a-power work
The Enerpack fittings are surely expensive!
eKretz
Well-Known Member
I've got the same air powered unit from Enerpac. Got it from the same place! Also have a P392. (2 speed hand pump). That's nice to have when you don't have air available.