580K Case Backhoe No Fuel At Injectors

[MrTG]

Hi All,
I have a 1994 , Case 580K Backhoe. It was running fine but had a severe fuel leak at the Throttle Pivot at the top of the injector pump. I removed the top half of the pump and replaced the two "O" Rings and re-assembled.
I have the Service Manual for this machine and followed the Procedure on Priming. Using the Priming Pump there is good fuel flow at the first Bleed Screw or Line (above the fuel filter) - and with the Key On - good fuel flow at the bleeder screw on the pump. But will not start. Loosened the lines at the Injectors and No traces of any Fuel.
I verified that the solenoid at the bottom of the pump does have power with the key on and it does "Click" when powered on. I have also removed the fuel line off at the filter and blew air back into the tank and I do get good fuel flow. I have repeated this process over a dozen times but still no fuel at the Injectors.
Any Help is Greatly Appreciated.
Mr.TG

 

[alrman]

Welcome to HEF @MrTG !
Does the manual fuel shut off still move after your throttle shaft repair?
It's possible that you have not properly fitted the top cover & the shut off linkage is stuck in the shut off position.
Hope you also got the spring for the throttle lever in the same hole it came out of..

 

[Billrog]

Pull the shut off solenoid open and tie it off with some hay wire and see if it will start.

 

[MrTG]

Thank You alrman & Billrog for your replies: The Manual Shut Off is free and does move. The Spring Loaded arm pivots back easily. I had earlier thoughts of possibly putting it back together wrong so I had taken it back apart and verified alignment of the pivot pin to the "U" on the shut off rod. As far as the spring on the throttle lever --- I had lifted the cover very gently and had taken a picture of it for reference and the spring was put back in the same hole.
Hi Billrog: You mentioned holding the shut off solenoid open with a wire ..... The spring Loaded Shut Off pivots back to the open position against a stop. you want me to tie it firmly against this stop?
Thx All

 

[Billrog]

On mine the spring holds it closed and I've had to hold it open with wire a couple times when the solenoid burn out in order to run. Until replacing the solenoid I would just stall the machine to stop it by pulling either the bucket curl or stabilizer other wise you have to undo the wire each time you wish to shut of the machine.

 

[MrTG]

I'm game .... willing to try any ideas. Will let you know tomorrow if it worked.
Thx

 

[alrman]

@MrTG - I hope you're not offended by this question, while bleeding the injector lines..... you are cranking the engine aren't you?
Sometimes a little sniff of ether is required to get things going again....

 

[thepumpguysc]

When you put the throttle lever back on.. are you sure you hit "the slot".. happens ALL THE TIME..
& just because the sh-off lever moves, doesn't mean your in the shut-off bar..

 

[MrTG]

Hi All

• When trying to bleed the Injector Lines, yes I'm cranking the engine and throttle wide open for at 10 to 15 seconds at a time, give it a little rest so as not to overheat the starter and try again .... and I did try using some ether - It would fire for a second and then nothing... no luck.
• Yes to both questions thepumpguysc. I carefully gun sighted the alignment of the manual shut off pin on the bottom of the cover plate to the "U" on the shut off rod when assembling. That was also one of mine concerns where I took it back apart to verify alignment of pin to slot. Same with the Throttle Lever, aligned the slot on the lever and the slot on the top washer.

Thank You for the suggestions.

 

[alrman]

There are two bleeder screws on the pump. The lower one is the most important one to open for priming.
You probably need to confirm that the pump is still turning while cranking by removing the timing window & having someone hit the key.
The clicking you are hearing testing the solenoid isn't an air conditioning compressor clutch?
My guess is you still have air in the system.

 

[MrTG]

Hi alrman,
Yes I did prime the lower bleeder screw with the key on. Although it's not "Squirting or Bursting" out like I saw in some of the you tube videos. The fuel comes out in a slow stream. As far as the solenoid ....I was by myself so I ran a hot wire from the battery straight to the solenoid and touched it on / off and I could hear and feel it clicking. I will confirm that the pump is still turning like you suggested. My gut feel is the same as you mentioned, I still have air trapped in the system because the machine was running fine (other than the leak at the throttle lever) before I took the top half of the pump off.
Thank You

 

[MrTG]

Hi alrman,
I removed the inspection cover off the front of the pump and verified the pump is turning. I'm at a loss .
I'm going to try setting up a 5 gallon fuel container above the fuel pump and gravity feed it to the filter. This way I can eliminate the fuel tank on the machine. Another thought from a friend is to try hooking up a 12volt fuel pump to assist in bleeding the air out. Will update with findings.

 

[alrman]

Hi alrman,
I removed the inspection cover off the front of the pump and verified the pump is turning. I'm at a loss .

I would think that's GOOD news!
Just keep priming......
If the lift pump is 'on cam', the primer handle will have little or no resistance, then a short kick on the starter is required to rotate the engine a little to allow it to prime.

 

[Grady]

A full tank of fuel doesn't hurt, either. I've bled the lines and pump on my K a couple times after replacing the lift pump and filters. I topped the tank off and cracked the injectors and she couldn't wait to start. My throttle lever was leaking, too, but by some miracle or **** luck it stopped all by itself so that fix has moved further down the list of priorities. I wish the rest of the repairs would fix themselves too.

 

[MrTG]

Yes I did fill the Fuel Tank. I even tried using a 5 gallon fuel container and gravity feed to the filter before the lift pump. It appears that when I'm priming with the lift pump, I can feel the pressure build up slightly .... a little bit of air at the banjo bolt above the water separator ... also same happens at the bleeder screw at the injection pump ... then the pressure seems to drop off and the cycle keeps repeating but no fuel at the injectors.
I ordered a 12volt fuel pump from amazon and waiting for it to come. I'm hoping the constant fuel pressure will assist in getting rid of the air.

 

[Billrog]

Had trouble bleeding a skidder once so I use a rag wrapped around and air nozzle and pressurized the fuel tank. Worked well.

 

[MrTG]

Hi Billrog,
How were you able to maintain some pressure in the fuel tank while bleeding? Was the rag a good seal?
Worth trying.
Thank You

 

[Billrog]

I just loosened the lines at the injectors and kept blowing fuel until I figured all the air must be out.

 

[Delmer]

So you have a diaphragm pump with a priming lever? Then you can use the feel of the lever to tell what the pressure and vacuum situation is. It will pump hard sucking a vacuum (plugged supply), pump too easy when it's pumped up to pressure (the diaphragm is held back by the fuel pressure and you're only moving the return spring), and a full even stroke means it's pumping fuel freely (line opened). Take the lines off and test it with your finger plugging the ports, then put it back and you'll see what I mean. If the pressure "builds up" on the priming lever, then you're not building pressure on the outlet.

 

[MrTG]

Thanks Delmer. Good Information. Will give that a try. I also have a Good Spare Fuel Priming Pump that I can set up in a vise and try.
Thank You