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580ck Torque converter with water

BeanV

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Jul 12, 2009
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Harrington Delaware
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I drained, cleaned, and refilled my torque converter with clean oil.
(It has set about 3 months since I last used it.)
I went to use it this past week and it would not move.
I had milky oil in the converter.
I drained it today and I had clear water plus milky oil come out.

We have hsad a lot of rain and snow....
How or what do I have to do to keep water out of the converter?
:)
 

willie59

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Phil would be the one to ask about this. A CK, that's one that the transmission and torque convertor is all one housing isn't it? If so, make certain the rubber shifter boots are in good condition on the tranny shift levers, that's the most common source of water ingress, cracked boots. Make sure your fill plugs are tight with good seals. Does the tranny case have a vent? A vent can get covered in dirt and become an entry point for water. Just a few thoughts.
 

Phil

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I've attached a picture from CNH showing the vent location. Good thing to check out. The large gasket shown under the adaptor plate is not likely suspect, and I've never seen one that isn't well sealed; same with the valve body gaskets.

The plate covering the rear opening in the torque tube, is where the oil fill plug is. Check the oil fill/dipstick for a sealing washer. The cover itself has a gasket and even under a cab this might be suspect too. These gaskets are often in poor condition.

I don't know what other area to check for outside water getting in to the shuttle system, that isn't going to leak oil bad when running. This would include the starter motor, and engine to torque tube gaskets.

Keep in mind that it is a large casting and over the years condensation will accumulate, if the machine gets only occasional use. It is also the most neglected when it comes to oil changes.

I'm quite sure you can't drain the torque converter on a 580CK, so you're only going to be able to get about 3/4 of the oil, by pulling both drain plugs at the front and back of the torque tube. Drain the filter housing and replace the filter(Napa 1518), located just in front of the radiator.

Pick a day that is above freezing to try it out again. Phil:)
 

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BeanV

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Harrington Delaware
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water in shuttle

Phil, you're a genious. I replaced the starter and the new one was not the correct one. The hole was open for about a month waiting for the new
starter to arrive. That's when we received all that snow.
Could the water get in through the starter hole?

Also, I need to replace the shifter boot, its cracked. The dip stick and vent tubes look Ok.

Thank all of you for responding to my problem.
 

Phil

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Not a good idea to leave the starter opening exposed to anything, on a 580CK or B model, with the torque converter drive. Any contaminants in the forward torque tube compartment end up getting washed back into the rear compartment, where there is even more oil, and the pump pick-up screen. Do change your shuttle filter and make sure the starter is installed with a gasket. The starter absolutely must have an oil seal around the armature, so it must be made for this application. Best to ask, where you bought it.

Do replace the transmission shifter boot as noted in post #2. Blowing snow will get into a B cab quite easily. You can check the transmission /differential oil on a separate dipstick/oil fill plug, farther back. The shuttle and transmission oil are different types. Phil:)
 

BeanV

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580ck

Yes, I'm doing just what you said.. Replace shifter boot and filter.
Also, the new starter did have a gasket.

Again, thank you for the info. I will let you know in a couple days if she moves herself again.
 

willie59

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Yes, I'm doing just what you said.. Replace shifter boot and filter.
Also, the new starter did have a gasket.

Again, thank you for the info. I will let you know in a couple days if she moves herself again.


What Phil was saying is starter has to have mounting gasket, and, a seal on the armature shaft. It has to be a starter that is made for a flywheel housing that has oil in it, like your machine. If the starter does not have the shaft seal, it will leak oil into the starter motor, really messy.
 

BeanV

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580 ck

Yes, the starter I bought is for the 580 CK, It is a sealed starter and it
came with the gasket for the bell housing.

Thank you for the info, I don't think my last thread explained it correctly.
 

BeanV

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Moving again

New oil, filter boot and the old girl is moving again. Plan to run it for a couple of hours (easy) and then change everything again.

Again tahnk for all the valuable information
 

Papa Goose

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Sep 29, 2009
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Pennsylvania
When you change the oil, Dexron is a suitable replacement for the "universal tractor transmission" fluid. I've found that Dexron works much better at low temps - I used to have to wait for the fluid to warm up before my 580B would move - now it's ready to go right away. Of course, you always want to warm up the engine before going to work, but I like to pull the tractor out of the garage to avoid asphyxiation, and I couldn't do that before.
 

Papa Goose

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I don't think you can afford to put it in the hydraulic system - the best Dexron price I've seen was Valvoline (at NAPA) on sale for about $3 a quart. I tried the regular univ tractor fluid after rebuilding the shuttle, then switched to Dexron when I ran into the cold movement problems. I also put in a quart of Trans-X, which was recommended by a friend of mine who knows a whole lot more about trannys than I do, but I can't say that I noticed a big difference. By the way, if you drain the system and refill, it only takes about 12 quarts because of the lines and torque convertor (normally 16 quarts are required). That much Dexron seems to be enough to make a dramatic improvement in the performance at low temps (at least on my machine!)
 

BeanV

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Jul 12, 2009
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Harrington Delaware
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I just replyed on the other thread about tractor stuff and I will go to ebay and look for filters for my 580ck. I have one other question.
do you know where I can find a wire diagram of the 580ck Disel? I'm looking
for the wire colors for my ck?
 
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