580CK Advice

[rasman57]

Makin it dirty! Feedin the burn pile!

 

[melben]

Get rid of that inline filter as fast as you can!!! The tank is to close to the same level as the carb to have the restriction of a paper element inline. That is a definate no no on a gravity system. Make sure there is a screen in the sediment bowl and that there is a good flow out of the tank with the bowl off , if not remove the assembly from the tank, disassemble and clean it thoroughly. mEl

 

[rjsmithffb]

I pulled the element out of the filter but have left the filter in place for now just to see the fuel flow. I pulled the bowl and did not find a screen. The flow seems ok from the tank but I really don't have a point of reference to know if it is good or restricted.

So here is a good one for you. I am still shaking my head at myself over this. I was fiddling with the float jet adjustment to see fi it was set lean. Apparently I was a little too aggressive in my trouble shooting and turned the adjuster too far - its somewhere in my pasture at the moment.

So next best thing was to pull the carb and give it a once over and replace the adjuster. Heres my latest issue - I can't figure out how to disconnect the throttle rod from the body of the carb. There is a threaded rod that comes out of a hollow cap on the end of the rod that attaches to the carb. There is a nut on this rod. No matter how I turn the nut, the rod spins on the carb side of the nut and in the throttle rod cap. So what's the trick to getting this thing out?

rjs

 

[rasman57]

I will look at the parts book to confirm but I think that shaft has a pressure fit over a threaded stud. Is the carb side of the linkage clean enough to see if a small wrench fits on a the stud that the throttle rod connects to?

 

[rasman57]

The shaft should have a stud with hex head connecting to the carb. On mine, it was so dirty it appeared to be round . Clean it up and see if the original parts are still there. You could always drop the carb with it on and make it a bit easier to manipulate the rod so you can get a better look and working area to remove it. If you are looking at # 36 you can see the stud is a ball swivel with a hex for a wrench to fit. I do not recall if the stud threads into the carb linkage or is held on with a nut, but in either case it is going to require you to wrench in there. I removed the OTHER end near the pivot and took it off with the carb because it was easrier to work but I had the loader off etc...

 

[rjsmithffb]

Mel,

I think the last issue was fuel flow. I finally got the carb off the throttle rod and it was really grungy. I found a guy locally that had a new zenith in the box and picked it up for a song and a dance. I installed the new carb, installed the 3 ohm coil, new plugs and wires, and fired the CK up. Started easy as always, even in 15 degree weather, ran fine at idle but above 1500 RMP stalled out. I pulled the fuel line off the carb and looked at the flow - just a trickle. So I decided to pucker up and give the fuel line hell. After I could hear air bubbling in the tank I checked the flow and it was full diameter of the 5/16 fuel line....huzzah! Hooked the fuel line back to the carb and stared up, runs like a champ at 1800 + rmp, pulled the engine down operating the stabilizer and she handled the load no problem.

One question on the fuel system and one on the generator. I had previously pulled the sediment bowl and there was no screen so I am wondering where the crud was blocking the fuel feed. Is there a screen or filter inside the tank? Where else could the system / line get blocked? While shutting down this evening I noticed small red electrical arcs inside the generator. Is this normal?

rjs

 

[melben]

Sounds like you are zeroing in on the problem. It will plug again, count on it. There is probably big enough crud in it to get down in the sediment bowl shutoff valve area and size will allow it to go no further. Get a 2 or 3 inch piece of steel tubing that fits tight in the sediment bowl hole where gas enters the top of the bowl. Fold the top shut and drill a series of holes in it to allow gas to enter but small enough that large particles cannot get in to plug the valve area. A coarse screen after a fashion. Of course a good tank cleaning would be a good idea, but your loader crosstube makes that a real issue. The smaller pieces that get through the drilled openings can be removed from the bowl but you do need to get the screen for in the bowl.

If the generator is working it is normal to see some arcing at the brushes as they pick up voltage from the commutator bars.

Mel

 

[J-Man]

Hi All,
I am new to this forum and would like to commend Rasman 57 on a great restoration. What make and color is the paint?

 

[J-Man]

Paint job

I restored my 69 580 CK last year and the coil is a 3 ohm resistance with no external resistor. I used a NAPA (Echlin) 905. May make a difference.

I would make sure your sediment bowl and screen filter are good and eliminate the in line as the gravity (non fuel pump) flow works best without one and really isn't needed if you are attentive to the bowl and start with a clean tank. You at least can determine if it the problem simply by removing it. I can't say for sure on your 67, but I think it is not designed with any more than a sediment bowl and screen filter. Easy to try. Good Luck.

Hi,
That's a great looking paint job. What color and make is the paint? I have a 72 Case 580 that use some paint.

 

[rjsmithffb]

Mel / others,

I have the ole' girl starting reliably and running in a generally acceptable manner. I have noticed that at 1/2 - 3/4 throttle, weather in gear, under load, or in neutral, the governor sort of pulsates and kicks in and out about every 2 seconds. Any suggestions as to what to look into to smooth her out?

rjs

 

[melben]

Mel / others,

I have the ole' girl starting reliably and running in a generally acceptable manner. I have noticed that at 1/2 - 3/4 throttle, weather in gear, under load, or in neutral, the governor sort of pulsates and kicks in and out about every 2 seconds. Any suggestions as to what to look into to smooth her out?

rjs

First, make sure the governor arm is free in the governor housing, there are needle bearings in the timing cover that get dry and can tighten the movement of the shaft especially on units that have sat for a time, just soak the shaft at the cover and work it back and forth till you are satisfied that it has no binding. The surging usually is caused by a misadjustment in the length of the rod between the governor arm and carb arm. With the link properly adjusted there should be 1/16 " between the wide open stop pin on the carb and the throttle arm stop on the butterfly shaft with everything in the wide open position, hand throttle clear down. That's the book, you may have to vary from that, sometimes governor surge can be a challenge to correct. Good luck

 

[timeflyer896]

not to steel any ones thread but seeing i cant post a new one yet>>>>>>>>>>>>>> i have a 1964 case 530 ck that i bought, or should i say got robed with. i bought this to be my first back hoe for my company i was told no leaks.... well no leaks because everything has been almost emptied out. so here is my question i spent 4300 between price and hauling it. here is what is wrong the transmission is a case g1411 has 6 would be mounting hole on bottom and 2 of the holes are leaking hydro fluid. the four speed has about an inch of fluid in it no where near dip stick level. the back hoe has bad swing bushing and pin for one side and the valve control is leaking. the hydro pump is also leaking as well. i cant tell if its the torque converter or the oil pan leaking still but that is where i am at. so i am hoping to find some one with some sound advice to give me as to what to do or for parts. and ideas like if a bolt in the mounting holes that is leaking hydro fluid from would stop it any help would be grate