555E Wheel bearing preload torque spec

[1998 555E]

Hello,
I am just finished up replacing all of my front end outer bushings and seals. As well as the front axle u joints. The wheel bearing preload is set by 6 bolts. The OE service manual has the torque spec for these bolts listed as 162 foot pounds. The bolts are a grade 12.9 with an M10 x 1.5 pitch thread with a . I felt like this was way too much and I hesitantly began, I got to 80 foot pounds and then set the wrench for 120 and just felt like I was going to break something. I don't think the torque spec can be right. Any thoughts? I don't want to break anything. Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

 

[1998 555E]

From what I can tell by looking at this chart. Max torque on an M10 grade 12.9 bolt is 70.6 foot pounds.

 

[NH575E]

I think I would use the value on the chart. No more than 80. Might want to put some blue thread locker on it.

 

[Swetz]

Yea man, good thing common sense said dont put that much torque on that bolt. It would snap for sure!

 

[1998 555E]

Thanks for the feedback. I think I have a solution that makes sense to me. I only took apart one side. as I wanted a reference if the job went sideways. I am going to get out the torque wrench are record the readings during disassembly of the other side. Then, put it with the max torque values based on the bolt size and grade charts. I am thinking once I have the readings from the factory side together with the charts values something that makes sense will emerge. Coupled with some blue locktite, everything should stay put.

 

[cosmaar1]

Thanks for the feedback. I think I have a solution that makes sense to me. I only took apart one side. as I wanted a reference if the job went sideways. I am going to get out the torque wrench are record the readings during disassembly of the other side. Then, put it with the max torque values based on the bolt size and grade charts. I am thinking once I have the readings from the factory side together with the charts values something that makes sense will emerge. Coupled with some blue locktite, everything should stay put.

I am most likely doing mine this weekend to replace the passenger side hub seal. I’ll let you know what I find out as well.

 

[Swetz]

I am going to get out the torque wrench are record the readings during disassembly of the other side.

The torque that it takes to break free a bolt installed for ~25 years will not be an accurate measure of the real torque that the bolt got new. It may, however, show you that the spec is waaay to high in the manual.

 

[1998 555E]

I took apart the other side today. I started at 20 ft. lbs. and increased with 5 pound increments. First one cracked loose at 45. I then re-tightened it to the 45 and moved on like this for the rest of them except moving in 1 pound increments starting at 40.

 

[1998 555E]

I looked very hard at the bolt threads. I did not see any traces of Loctite. The threads appeared to be in new condition, dry, and rust free. I am going to stew on this a couple of days. In all my other experiences with tapered wheel bearings they are usually just more than snug.

 

[edgephoto]

With tapered roller bearings you do not want any play but you also don't want them tight or they will burn up. In the old days when repacking wheel bearings I would take a wrench and tighten them real tight, spin the wheel a few times then loosen and just tighten until the nut and washer took up any slack and then fitted the cotter pin.

 

[1998 555E]

The torque that it takes to break free a bolt installed for ~25 years will not be an accurate measure of the real torque that the bolt got new. It may, however, show you that the spec is waaay to high in the manual.

I agree, I think it shows that the manual is too high. Not quite sure what to make of the values at this point given the circumstances.

 

[1998 555E]

With tapered roller bearings you do not want any play but you also don't want them tight or they will burn up. In the old days when repacking wheel bearings I would take a wrench and tighten them real tight, spin the wheel a few times then loosen and just tighten until the nut and washer took up any slack and then fitted the cotter pin.

Thank you for the advice. I would feel a lot better about the situation if their was some sort of mechanical retaining device for the bolts.

 

[1998 555E]

I am most likely doing mine this weekend to replace the passenger side hub seal. I’ll let you know what I find out as well.

Thank you!

 

[1998 555E]

Carraro tilta 26.16 pilna demontāža. 1. Daļa

I need to figure out the axle number from Carraro
This one is similar, it uses Loctite and 95 Newton / Meters which is about 70.01 Ft/Lbs

 

[mekanik]

Is there a specification in the manual for hub pre-load or allowable end play? I don't see a provision for adjusting it in the picture you posted if its too tight or loose. Proper adjustment is very important.

 

[1998 555E]

According to the manual it is preset and non-adjustable.

 

[1998 555E]

 

[1998 555E]

Found some other info on the topic. The video posted earlier is for my axle. From reading on this forum and searching for the Carraro 26.16 model number I have discovered that this axle has been used on the Case 580M Series 2. I found a thread where people were talking about the oil as the axle tag states the oil as an API GL5, which is a gear oil, not a 10W 30 "Tractor Fluid" which I thought was interesting.

 

[1998 555E]

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[1998 555E]