480F brakes

[Bbob]

Thanks again airman. Really good info'. I haven't had the sideshafts out but since there's some play in the LHS after tightening the housing I'm suspecting the this caused the seal to fail.

 

[Bbob]

Well, I still have this machine and I still have this problem. It is a farm use machine so I have been using it for several years now with only the left brake working. I have decided to tackle the issue again. Can anyone tell me if I might have some play in this axle which might cause the continual problem with axle seals? The axle doesn’t move when I try to pry it a little at rest and the backlash seems ok when moving the wheels a little while off the ground. Anyone had any of the same experiences with these backhoes?
Thanks in advance

 

[alrman]

The movement could be in the side gears or bull pinion gears OR the small diff lock seal.

Rocking the rear wheels won't tell you if that is the issue.
You check those gears when the brake covers are off & brakes are out of the machine.

 

[Bbob]

Thanks airman. I had removed a shim years ago when I tackled this but evidently I still have too much play in the gearing. I installed a second seal on the diff lock axle and a second seal on the brake housing axle. I cleaned my old brake discs and will be using those instead of the new ones I bought to test the machine once reassembled. I also drilled a 3/8” hole next to the pin in the outer brake cover to allow drainage.
If this doesn’t work I will have to find someone more experienced in making adjustments to the gearing.

 

[henry.45]

This is my first post so go easy on me. I have this machine for farm use and i am trying to take my time and do the brakes right. Several questions i have about the process:

1. Do i have to drop the transaxle to get the inner brake housing off? Evidently the seals are bad on the side the differential lock is mounted to.

2. Can i have the inner brake housing resurfaced. There is some scoring but the grooves aren't deep.

3. The left side brake was working but grabbed badly and sounded like metal against metal. When i removed the outer cover for that side there was plenty of dust but the brake discs were ok. A mechanic told me the springs on the bendix type discs would weaken over time causing the grabbing but that doesn't explain things.

It has the dry type brake with the vent hose connections on top and the actuators cylinders are in good shape.

Sure, I can help you with that. Here are the answers to your questions:

1. Yes, you will likely need to drop the transaxle to remove the inner brake housing. This is because the differential lock is mounted on the same side, and the seals may be preventing access to the housing.
2. Yes, you can have the inner brake housing resurfaced. However, if the scoring is not deep, it may not be necessary. You can check with a mechanic to see if it's worth the cost.
3. The grabbing and metal-on-metal sound could be caused by several factors. It's possible that the brake pads are worn unevenly, or that there is debris in the brake system. It's also possible that the springs on the bendix type discs have weakened, but this alone may not explain the grabbing. I would recommend having a mechanic inspect the system to determine the cause and recommend a solution.

Regarding the dry type brake with vent hose connections on top and good shape actuator cylinders, it seems that the brake system is in good condition overall. However, it's important to address any issues with the brakes as soon as possible to ensure safety and prevent further damage.