2011 John Deere 319D Won't Start (no beep) - Help!

[h319d]

Hello everyone,

I have a 319D which stopped working after sitting for some time.

Some details:
- When I put the key in, the initial beep does not sound & I am unable to start
- There are no codes showing currently
- Battery appears to be fine, 12.6v & connected securely
- "Cab door open" does not go off even once closed. <= I checked the switch for this & it appears to be working..
- horn does not work (is this because of fuse 17/18?)

Testing:
- All fuses have power except 17 & 18 (as per https://spare.avspart.com/catalog/deere/895/51230/277474/)
- I've replaced all 4 relays (25, 26, 27, 28 as per https://spare.avspart.com/catalog/deere/895/51230/277474/)


Any suggestions on the possible cause here & areas I can test?
I've had an initial visual on wiring and seems to be ok but perhaps a more thorough inspection is required (would point to point testing suffice?).

My thought potential water damage somewhere but I'm not sure where to begin troubleshooting..

Any help would be much appreciated!!

 

[mg2361]

Machine serial number please.

Does it crank?

 

[h319d]

Machine serial number please.

Does it crank?

1T0319DAPB0198595

Does not crank, something in the electricals appears to be wrong preventing the start.

 

[mg2361]

- There are no codes showing currently

Did you scroll to the codes menu and check for codes?

Check this first. At the battery positive post, there is a small red wire molded into the positive cable clamp. Give it a good pull. Does it come out? Even if it does not, it might be loose in there. I would recommend cutting that wire and put an eyelet on it and attach it under the nut of the positive clamp.

 

[h319d]

Yes, I did scroll looking for codes but hadn’t found any.

I’ll look at the secondary wire connection, thanks!

 

[h319d]

Secondary wire connection appears to be solid & power is going to the relays.

Any other ideas?

Is it possible for me to receive a electrical wiring diagram so that I can do point to point checks & ensure I'm receiving power where it's expected?

Additionally, a while back I checked the diodes & am 99% sure I put them back as they should be but I would like to confirm.

Thanks again in advance in case anyone has an electrical diagram they can share!!

 

[Zewnten]

If you plan to keep fixing this machine do yourself a favor and buy the service manual. It'll pay for itself in no time.

 

[h319d]

For additional context, there are no active codes but there are the following stored codes from the past:

1/4 EMU - 158.01
2/4 EMU - 2000.09
3/4 ECU - 94.18
4/4 ECU - 1569.31

 

[mg2361]

2/4 EMU - 2000.09

This one is the reason I had you check and move that wire. This code is "No data from the ECU on the CAN Bus". The ECU gets it's power supply from that wire.

You need the Operation and Test manual TM11414 (for manually controlled machines).

Check your PM.

 

[h319d]

This one is the reason I had you check and move that wire. This code is "No data from the ECU on the CAN Bus". The ECU gets it's power supply from that wire.

You need the Operation and Test manual TM11414 (for manually controlled machines).

Check your PM.

Well noted, PM well received thank you again!

Checking all wires via electrical diagram tomorrow, hopefully will be able to get to the root of the issue!

 

[h319d]

Problem resolved! Albeit rather embarrassing..

I overlooked 10A fuse #15 was missing… put a new fuse in and problem solved!

A sincere thank you to mg2361, I couldn’t have done this without the wiring schematic.

 

[h319d]

New problem, figured I would post in here instead of starting a new thread..

Took a look at the dipstick & the oil appears to have a milky appearance suggesting water in the oil...

I'm searching now to see how to approach this, but I presume the issue could be coming from a multitude of places (head-gasket, outside rain, other)..

Any suggestions on how to diagnose & fix this problem would be greatly appreciated ! @mg2361

 

[mg2361]

Is there engine oil in the coolant?

Let the machine sit over night. When cold, open the drain for the engine oil. Drain about a quart out to ensure the hose drains out and what is in the pan starts to come out (or crack the drain hose loose at the pan end). Does any water or coolant come out at all? Is the oil still milky after sitting over night?

 

[h319d]

Is there engine oil in the coolant?

Let the machine sit over night. When cold, open the drain for the engine oil. Drain about a quart out to ensure the hose drains out and what is in the pan starts to come out (or crack the drain hose loose at the pan end). Does any water or coolant come out at all? Is the oil still milky after sitting over night?

Drained the oil today, all of the oil is milky greyish.

Not good.

I've bought replacement oil but I'm not certain how to:

1. Drain as much of the bad oil out as I can (would an oil & oil filter change be enough?)

2. Find the root cause of the issue.

 

[mg2361]

Again, is there oil in the coolant?

1. It might take 2 changes of oil to flush it out.
2. Depends on the answer to the question above.

 

[h319d]

Again, is there oil in the coolant?

1. It might take 2 changes of oil to flush it out.
2. Depends on the answer to the question above.

Apologies, I didn’t see the first question.

I did not find any oil in the coolant.

For flushing out, is it best to use only oil? I’ve seen some recommendations of adding some diesel or kerosene but this sounds sketchy to me..

 

[mg2361]

If you have no oil in the coolant, try pressure testing the cooling system to see if it holds. You might want to drain the oil and have the hose off the pan to see if coolant comes out while pressure testing. If it holds pressure and does not leak anything out the drain, then I would change the oil and filter, run it to full operating temperature and run at that temp for a little while to help evaporate some of the water. Then, I would change the oil and filter again. Then just keep an eye on your oil to see if it starts to go milky again.