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2008 Gradall 544D-10 (Deere 4045HF275) Crank no start

Keith Merrell

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2020
Messages
264
Location
Cottonwood, AZ
Hello everyone,

I recently got this Gradall to put up my steel building. It was running excellent all day, until I tried restarting it a few minutes after shutting it down. Engine serial: PE4045H684260

I am getting a crank no start condition. It is cranking strong, and the batteries are fresh and in good shape. No smoke while cranking, not so much as a cough. It will run on ether though.

I replaced both fuel filters as a precaution. I am getting fuel at the water separator while cranking. Cracking the injector lines while cranking gets me a weak stream of fuel, but I don't see any air in it.

I suspect this is an electrical problem. Most likely something to do with the shut off solenoid on the injection pump. Or I figure it could be something to do with a safety shut off such as one for low coolant or oil pressure, which I assume would kill power to the shut off solenoid on the injection pump?

I will have to lift the boom to access the injection pump. So my questions are:

1. What is the best way to lift the boom without engine power? I was planning on removing the hydraulic lines at the lift cylinders where the safety valves are, and then lifting with my track hoe.

2. What kind of voltages am I supposed to see at the injection pump? And does the key need to be in the run position? What tests can I perform to check the solenoid?

3. Any other things I should check before diving into investigating the injection pump?

4. Can the solenoid be jumped somehow for diagnosis?

5. I noticed a wire coming directly off of the battery with an inline fuse, it looked like a crappy connection with a crimp connector, so I am suspicious. Is the shut off solenoid powered directly off the battery?

Thanks.
 

mg2361

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
6,798
Location
Pennsylvania
Occupation
Equipment Mechanic
That engine has a DE10 electronic injection pump and cannot be tested for voltage or hot wired. It is powered directly from the ECU. Is there a display somewhere that shows or gives you access to codes? Is there voltage to the red wires (terminals A2 and K1) at the ECU (should be mounted near the injection pump)? Is there a good ground (terminal J2)?
 

Keith Merrell

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2020
Messages
264
Location
Cottonwood, AZ
That engine has a DE10 electronic injection pump and cannot be tested for voltage or hot wired. It is powered directly from the ECU. Is there a display somewhere that shows or gives you access to codes? Is there voltage to the red wires (terminals A2 and K1) at the ECU (should be mounted near the injection pump)? Is there a good ground (terminal J2)?
I don't have a display unit that shows codes. Earlier while cranking the check engine light would flash consistently, but it no longer does anymore. Should the voltage at the ECM be present when cranking or would that be present all the time?
 

mg2361

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
6,798
Location
Pennsylvania
Occupation
Equipment Mechanic
One power wire (terminal K1) has voltage all the time, while the other power wire (A2) has voltage whenever the ignition is on. Fuses good? There might be a fuse holder mounted near the ECU as well.
If voltage is present at the two power terminals and ground is good, then you will need someone to plug into it for diagnostics.
 

MarshallPowerGen

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2017
Messages
658
Location
NW USA
Occupation
Generator Technician & Equipment Mechanic
Like MG2361 said; Pretty sure there is an inline glass fuse holder in the harness just near the ECU that will rattle apart and cause a no fuel/no start. I've replaced a few and have switched them to the spade type holder.
 

Keith Merrell

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2020
Messages
264
Location
Cottonwood, AZ
Like MG2361 said; Pretty sure there is an inline glass fuse holder in the harness just near the ECU that will rattle apart and cause a no fuel/no start. I've replaced a few and have switched them to the spade type holder.
Yes sir, so that’s what it was. I got it running now, the in line fuse holder (mini spade type) was bad. I would get voltage intermittently through the fuse and I found it to be the holder. It was located near the battery. Thanks everyone for the help I greatly appreciate it, machine runs like a top, and sure enough it was an electrical problem. IMG_7365.jpeg
 
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