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2004 Cat D3G XL s/n JMH00765 JOYSTICK PROBLEM
- Thread starter toreed47
- Start date
Nige
Senior Member
Firstly, kudos for posting a Serial Number. 99% of posters don't......
You need to see if it has any Diagnostic Codes. The 8-pin Diagnostic connector is located inside the LH console. All you need is a short length of automotive wire to use as a jumper to pull Code. See the attachment for detailed instructions.
You need to see if it has any Diagnostic Codes. The 8-pin Diagnostic connector is located inside the LH console. All you need is a short length of automotive wire to use as a jumper to pull Code. See the attachment for detailed instructions.
BladeManBob
Active Member
Nige, how do you get such information from CAT? Has there been some sort of settlement whereby a CAT customer/owner can access that type info under a "right to repair"? My pocketbook is still spinning after replacement of the left hand joy stick on a D4G XL. Three field trips by Cat to diagnose and repair came in at around $4500, as best I recall.
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Nige
Senior Member
I would always advise anyone who owns a machine to have a set of manuals. For a Cat this would be three documents - Operation & Maintenance, Parts, and Service.
I can never understand the reluctance of someone who has a machine worth tens of thousands of dollars to purchase service materials that are freely available to download, or buy even in old-fashioned paper versions should you so wish, for less than $1000. Even if the machine was later sold on you could always put the service documentation up for sale separately on eBay, Craigslist, or whatever, and get back what you paid for it.
There has been no "settlement" as you call it, because none of the information put up here by myself and others is regarded by Cat as being confidential. All you have to do is go out and buy what suits your machine.
As an example a full set of manuals for the OP's D3G would be about $600 in round numbers. Your D4G would probably be about the same price, give or take $10 or so. Just put your Serial Number in the Search Box. https://www.servicemanualpro.com/?page=Products&searchbox=JMH00765
I can never understand the reluctance of someone who has a machine worth tens of thousands of dollars to purchase service materials that are freely available to download, or buy even in old-fashioned paper versions should you so wish, for less than $1000. Even if the machine was later sold on you could always put the service documentation up for sale separately on eBay, Craigslist, or whatever, and get back what you paid for it.
There has been no "settlement" as you call it, because none of the information put up here by myself and others is regarded by Cat as being confidential. All you have to do is go out and buy what suits your machine.
As an example a full set of manuals for the OP's D3G would be about $600 in round numbers. Your D4G would probably be about the same price, give or take $10 or so. Just put your Serial Number in the Search Box. https://www.servicemanualpro.com/?page=Products&searchbox=JMH00765
Thanks Nige, I'll check it for codes when I get a chance. Thomas
A little more info on my D3G XL joystick problem. I ran it this morning to check it out my son was running it when it messed up. So it works in all positions it will go in neutral but you have to hold it their if you let go of the stick it springs into forward. It feels like it has spring pressure pushing it that way. Instead of being spring loaded to neutral its to forward position. You can feel the detent when you pull it into neutral. I have not check for codes yet. Do you think something has happened to the inside of joystick?
Nige
Senior Member
Based on those symptoms it seems perfectly possible that something has failed inside the joystick control.
The control is "not repairable" according to the Part Number. In other words there are no replaceable parts inside it. Attached is the parts breakdown. Of course there is nothing to stop you attempting to disassemble it to see if you can find what's wrong. You may have to get creative with the disassembly because it's not designed to be taken apart. A new one is priced around $500.
It may interest you to know that the 230-1024 Control fitted to your machine was replaced with an improved Part Number 286-7039 after S/N JMH02260 onwards. That Part Number can also be fitted to your machine.
The control is "not repairable" according to the Part Number. In other words there are no replaceable parts inside it. Attached is the parts breakdown. Of course there is nothing to stop you attempting to disassemble it to see if you can find what's wrong. You may have to get creative with the disassembly because it's not designed to be taken apart. A new one is priced around $500.
It may interest you to know that the 230-1024 Control fitted to your machine was replaced with an improved Part Number 286-7039 after S/N JMH02260 onwards. That Part Number can also be fitted to your machine.
Nige
Senior Member
For some reason the file didn't want to upload.
Thanks Nige, I might try and take it apart nothing to lose. A new one at my cat dealer is $535. Can I just put a new one on or does it have to be programed?
Nige
Senior Member
If the control is replaced both the steering sensor and F/N/R sensors need to be re-calibrated. This is a job that requires Cat ET as far as I can see.
If it goes that route would you have the option to haul the tractor into your dealer, you change out the control, and have them do the re-calibration before you haul it away again..?
If it goes that route would you have the option to haul the tractor into your dealer, you change out the control, and have them do the re-calibration before you haul it away again..?
I can haul it to the dealer don't if they would let me change it out at their lot or not. About what would they charge to re-calibrate the sensors is it a big deal?
Nige
Senior Member
Sorry, I should have asked how far you are away from their shop for a service call when you pay the tech time & mileage to drive back & forth versus taking the machine to them. If you are close it might be better to simply have a site visit to do the re-calibration.
I'm about 3 or 4 miles from dealer.
Nige
Senior Member
Usually the answer to that question from most posters is that you’re “a 2-hour drive from the dealer”......
As you were then, change the control yourself (if it comes to that) and have them come out and calibrate it.
As you were then, change the control yourself (if it comes to that) and have them come out and calibrate it.
I think I'll take it off when I get time and see if I can figure out if I can repair it if now go get a new one. Thanks for you help.