1999 John Deere 310E loader-backhoe

[ylekyote]

I bought this machine today with just under 4,500 hours on it. From a JD dealer in western CO. It was owned by a private user it seems. It's my first backhoe I've owned and ever operated. It was a good deal compared to others I shopped. $24,200 with forks, 24" and 12" hoe buckets. A trade in, the dealer said. No operator manual.

4 questions concerning the in-gear movement, brakes, fuel pedal, and operational checking them for proper function. Would appreciate any feedback. Thanks!

1. The foot brake pedal seems a little soft. It gets better with pumping, but still seems soft. Have to push it fairly hard to work well and bring to a complete stop even at really slow speed (under 5mph). I'm a 160 pound guy, use to old heavy pickup truck brakes. This normal for age/hours? I'm not sure what I should expect from JD 310E brake pedal. How to check it?

2. The Parking Brake is turned on and off with a button. What's the operational check for this? Can I use this button if my foot brakes went out? Or is it the same system?

3. When on level ground the backhoe moves Forward or Reverse even if the fuel pedal is not depressed and the machine is at lowest idle setting. Is this normal? I was coasting perhaps at 3 mph on level hard dirt and placed it in Neutral and the machine jerked to a fast stop. I thought it would just coast to a stop...?

4. For urgent stopping this machine in case of brake failure, but not breaking any parts, is there a procedure other than planting the bucket, stick and stabilizers into the ground? Can the gear selector be moved from 4th or 3rd to 1st to help?

Thanks much!

 

[JonathanMA]

1) I'd drain the rear axle (thats where the service brakes are) and make sure the oil is relatively clean-- It may be sort of black from use(brakes), but no metallic particles should be there. If it drains and looks like Nevr-Seize then theres more issues. The original fill is John Deere Hy-Gard hydraulic/transmission oil-- use either that or something comparable-- Something rated for use with wet disc brakes as some cheap oil will make the brakes chatter. Not too uncommon for the pedal to travel a bit more on the first pump, then get a bit stiffer on the second.
2) Park brake is spring applied/hydraulic released and is separate from the service brakes-- It locks up the input shaft at the rear axle- you can crawl under and see it at the front of the rear axle--has a hose going to it. That supplies hydraulic oil pressure to release when the switch is turned off-- to check if it's mechanically working, park on an incline and if it rolls with park brake on , somethings broken. It applies automatically with engine off as theres no pressure. To use as an emergency stop, wear your seat belt to avoid a face plant to the front glass and steering wheel in the belly.
3)Hard to tell on this one-- There is a certain amount of parasitic drag, but if it feels like somethings dragging somewhere , that may be an issue -- Does this have a powershift transmission (all shifting on column lever) or synchro-shuttle -- (FnR on column and gear shift lever)
4) If its a powershift, you can switch to lower gears to slow-- synchro-shuttle, may be a little more difficult to downshift.

 

[ylekyote]

Thank you much. I'll do all of your suggestions. Want to be sure brakes are 100%.

This morning I noticed a new problem upon startup. I'll make a new post for this question too.

I let the JD 310E I bought sit for 36 hours after I accepted delivery and started it this morning. Started fine, and at lowest idle (1,000rpm) everything was fine. As I pressed the fuel pedal the Low Oil Pressure Light illuminated at 1,100 RPM and stayed on if increased above that point too. It stayed on for almost 20 minutes if revved above 1,000 rpm. I checked it every 3-5 minutes to see what it would do, and for how long. At 20 minutes it went off, but it came back on upon me revving it to 2300rpm and then went off again and stayed off after that, regardless of the RPMs. I'm letting it sit for a couple of hours to check it again when cool but not ice cold. It's about 40 degress F today.

Is any of this normal age operation for a 1999 310E with 4,500 hours. Suggestions?

 

[oceanobob]

Can you temporarily put a pressure gage on the engine to determine the actual oil pressure, (hopefully) then determine the switch is bad and simply illuminating due to the vibration and not the low pressure....this would eliminate quite a bit of worry and then you could get back to concentrating on those brakes.

 

[ylekyote]

I was being a dufus. I figured out it was the Hyd Fluid Filter Restriction lamp, doing a web search. Many do this when cold, and the manual says normal. Thanks!

 

[Plongson]

Glad to hear it was just the hydraulic oil pressure light, and yes, that's normal when the oil is cold and will kind'a flash on /off until the oil is warmed up.

What is worrisome though, is when you thought it might be engine oil pressure and you kept running and revv'n trying to make it go off...I'm here to tell you, if you see an honest to goodness engine oil warning of ANY kind, you'd be highly advised to shut'er DOWN!

If you loose oil and roast an engine on these machines, you're just NOT going to find another motor and throw it in...It's immediately a huge amount of work and stupidly expensive...something you'll regret and kick yourself for a LONG time.

I bought a 2004 JD 210LE that lost a rod from an oil problem and TRASHED the engine. Nearly $10k later (doing ALL the work myself) we're off to the races.

Search some threads here and you'll feel the heartache where a engine needs replacement.

Just say'n throwing in my .02

 

[Deon]

Ylekyote, about stopping fast when you shifted to neutral. If 4x4 is activated it will not coast as much and if the steering is turned hard to one side it will even coast less. I do not have 310E but a 310D. I usually need to pump the pedal once to get a high and firm brake pedal and I need to press firmly to stop. As the machine and oil warms up it stops with less pedal pressure.
My hydraulic oil pressure light also comes on when cold. More so if my filter needs changing but as you already know it's normal.