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1997 international 4900

8

89.ho.ss

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2014
Messages
77
Location
eastern CT
Ok I have been checking on everything. I have been checking grounds and everything I can. I tried starting it this morning it was cranking over but wouldn't start. Then after about three or four tries it won't even turn over now. Relays are still clicking. And so is the part on the transmission. The positive on the trans"can" is flickering and the ground on the relays is what is flickering. I don't know where to go first. Would the inhibitor relay cause all of this? How to you test it? Thank you in advance.
 
8

89.ho.ss

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2014
Messages
77
Location
eastern CT
Ok I tried taking the dash apart on the pass side. It only has the heater box there. I know this is a stupid problem and something simple. I don't know what the three relays are but with them clicking like crazy I know it's stupid. I have tugged on every wire I can find no change. The only change I get is if I unplug any different sensor on the truck then the clicking will slow a bit
 
Last edited:
mekanik

mekanik

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
999
Location
Canada's Northwest
When the relays start clicking on and off it is usually a connection problem somewhere.
When the key is turned on every thing powers up creating a load. The load exceeds what
poor connection can supply and the load drops causing the relays to click off. Now there
is no load so the relays power up again. The cycle keeps repeating.
Is there any other circuits that are affected? heater or lights?

You said there was a burnt wire at the key switch. Check and see if there are large
voltage fluctuations at the Batt and IGN connectors at the back of the key switch.
Check for the same at the fuse panel under the dash.
A bad ground can cause this too.
My best guess.

Terry
 
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8

89.ho.ss

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2014
Messages
77
Location
eastern CT
Ok I will check the key switch. And wires thank you for responding I have been hunting down and cleaning all grounds that I can find. I tried this morning and the truck now cranks over for about three seconds then cuts itself out. But it won't start. Like no fuel. But the relays are going nuts. Once I find the cause of that I think that's my problem.
 
8

89.ho.ss

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Joined
Dec 21, 2014
Messages
77
Location
eastern CT
The only thing I have noticed is the round can on the transmission is clicking and the relays. And the warn eng light in the dash. Other than that everything else seems fine lights and heater seem to work normal
 
mekanik

mekanik

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
999
Location
Canada's Northwest
There are 2 fuses in the battery box that feed the clean power harness to the ECM and IDM.
There is also a ground wire coming from the batteries.
The ground has a splice just inside the frame where it becomes 2 ground wires.
They go through a flat 4 pin metripack connector just above the starter.
The clean power harness continues up near the steering column and there is the same 4 pin
Metripack connector. Unplug the clean power harness near the steering column and load test
both the power and ground wires. I use a head light bulb using both the high and low beam filaments.
The 2 circuits should have no problem powering both head light filaments.

The clean power connectors look something like the picture below.

needsname.jpg
 
mekanik

mekanik

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
999
Location
Canada's Northwest
Last edited:
8

89.ho.ss

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2014
Messages
77
Location
eastern CT
Ok so I have done some testing and the pin out of the ecm number 33 is flickering. I also can't seem to get a ground at number 31 that one is for the cmp
 
mekanik

mekanik

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
999
Location
Canada's Northwest
I doubt you would be able to find a breakout connector for the ECM.
The following checks have to be done with the ECM connector connected to the ECM.
I would start by checking the grounds at the ECM pins 20, 40 and 60,
With the ignition on. See if they are flickering. I hate cutting into wiring
harnesses but you may not have a choice.
If you take a large sewing needle in a pin vice and carefully slip the tip
of the needle between the wire and the rubber seal on the back of the ECM
connector you may be able to probe the connectors. Put the lead from your
test light on the positive post on the starter and touch it to the needle.
The test light should light if it flickers there is a ground problem.
If it lights up the grounds are good.
Move your test light lead to a good ground and next check the ignition power at
pins 57 and 37 with the ignition on they should have 12 volts. Are they flickering?
I would check pin 1 keep alive power as well it should have 12 volts key on or off.


Terry
 
Last edited:
mekanik

mekanik

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
999
Location
Canada's Northwest
Is pin 37 flickering too?
You need to follow the wire from 57 and 37 back to where they get power.

I will look and see if I can find a diagram.

Terry
 
mekanik

mekanik

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
999
Location
Canada's Northwest
Your right my mistake. 37 and 57 are powered by the ECM power relay.
Without going back and reading this whole thread again.
Did you check the power and grounds ate the ECM power relay?
 
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