Yes sir, If I can get this truck reliable and setup the way I want and still have less than $30K in it I'll be thrilled.I knew you'd be all over that.
Our truck has some of that potential for popping out, but it is going to make it to the end of my career.
Exciting times there @MG84 !
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1997 Ford LT9000 tandem dump truck
- Thread starter MG84
- Start date
Truck Shop
Senior Member
Only a very few trucks have room, plus it's not advised. Problem is with the threads that seemed
to be taken care of by detent parts--in reality those were just wishful thinking, they didn't want
to spend the money or time. By the way the rear engine mounts are on the transmission bell.
Fords, Volvos, GMC, Mack all liked that idea--it was a bad one.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
Parts? I only used genuine Eaton--I never used IPD or others. When I rebuilt a gear box
for someone they expected it to last--And my moto was {One Ping, One Ping Only} I only
did them one time. Eaton parts are not that expensive, A rebuild bearing & gasket kit is
roughly $800. Average parts cost on a major rebuild of a 13 would hit $2,500.
Any major parts house dealer for parts.
for someone they expected it to last--And my moto was {One Ping, One Ping Only} I only
did them one time. Eaton parts are not that expensive, A rebuild bearing & gasket kit is
roughly $800. Average parts cost on a major rebuild of a 13 would hit $2,500.
Any major parts house dealer for parts.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
It's my area--notice I don't follow or post on yellow iron threads---I really don't care about
that stuff and liked working on it even less. I'm the opposite of Vetech he hates trucks I
hate excavators, HT crawlers, loaders, rollers--run them till they break then scrap them.
Understood. For me, I'm willing to spend the money to do it right, the time is the issue. I'm basically a one man show, so any time spent in the shop is not on the job site, and this time of year my phone is blowing up with customer calling. Problem is, when I take something to a dealer/repair shop it seems to take even longer than if I'd have just done it myself. Like the rear main seal on my IH4700, I could have done it in one long day, took them 5 weeks. I'm going to drive it as-is for a little while and see how it does, If I have to I'll jump in and tackle it. Would a good reman be an option or am I better off taking the time to rebuild what I have?
Truck Shop
Senior Member
Reman--unless you have the book, the tools, and extra time it won't be worth it.
First time out of the gate for someone who has never been in one the time triples.
The other is knowing what to look for.
On the reman transmissions, where does one look for a quality, reputable reman? I briefly looked on the Eaton site, looks like they offer a good number of factory reman transmissions, but not mine (to old?). I see various ones in my model for sale on Ebay, Vander Haags, etc ranging from $3000-6000, but who knows the quality.
Also, since I might be swapping transmissions, is there a better model to go with? I originally wanted an 8LL, but this truck is geared so deep already that may not be needed. 13spd? 15spd? or just stick with the 9spd?
Also, since I might be swapping transmissions, is there a better model to go with? I originally wanted an 8LL, but this truck is geared so deep already that may not be needed. 13spd? 15spd? or just stick with the 9spd?
Truck Shop
Senior Member
You won't gain much moving to a ten speed overdrive and lowest gear ratios are real close,
between a 9 spd B and a 10 spd C. The only 13spd I would use is a RTLO14613B-it's a high
torque with a low of 14.71 and overdrive of .85. The 9 & 10 is roughly a low of 12.60 and
a overdrive of .73. But you will get hit a core charge changing styles of gear boxes.
*
For a reman-nationally-Weller/Jasper.
between a 9 spd B and a 10 spd C. The only 13spd I would use is a RTLO14613B-it's a high
torque with a low of 14.71 and overdrive of .85. The 9 & 10 is roughly a low of 12.60 and
a overdrive of .73. But you will get hit a core charge changing styles of gear boxes.
*
For a reman-nationally-Weller/Jasper.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
Odd thing about this-I know where a RTX 11609 is setting, needs to be checked out,
it came out of a 9000.
it came out of a 9000.
If you weren't on the other side of the country I might be twisting your arm to build one for me lol.
Really though, If I'm going the reman route I might as well keep driving this one as long as I can. I don't think it's going to fail catastrophically so I won't be out of anything core wise.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
That's correct--and in the mean time you can look around--might run upon something.
63 caveman
Senior Member
I've done a few of these transmissions but to be honest most the time it is best to have it done by a shop that do them every day. In my area there are a couple of shops and you just can't beet a guy that dose it every day. If they are not backed up they can turn it around in a couple days. Keep in mind they have to eat too!
cfherrman
Senior Member
If your going to spend money on a different transmission you really should go 13/18 speed. Is it really hilly over there and you expect to be loaded heavy a lot you can go 18 but 13 will be better.
Local companies around here have good enough luck with remans, you could pay the core charge and get the trans sitting in your shop and then swap it out.
Kiss just keep the trans you have and replace with same when needed
Local companies around here have good enough luck with remans, you could pay the core charge and get the trans sitting in your shop and then swap it out.
Kiss just keep the trans you have and replace with same when needed
Did you transpose those numbers? Most of the trucks at work have 18s and two still have 13s. We spend a lot of time on steep ground and when I get in a truck with a 13, it's not very long before I'm wishing for an 18.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
One thing to remember--is check the lower ratios {low range} on a 13 speed. The RTLO14613B
is 14.71--What Eaton did was build it with the lower side ratios of a 18 speed just don't have the
splits on the low side, but the ratios are just wide enough to work out for off road. The gear box
I listed works well with lower horse power engines and is just right behind a Cummins 400 with
3.70 ratio. At .85 overdrive it still has a decent top highway speed with a low of 14.71. just like
a 18 speed.
Just hauled the first load, 10 tons of rock for a small project here at the farm. Wanted to haul a few light loads to get a feel for the truck before loading it up. 10 tons was completely a non-issue, slowed down a little on the hills but otherwise you couldn't even tell it was back there. Will load it to 12-14 next trip.
Empty weight was less than I expected, 21,700 with half tank of fuel. I think my limiting factor is going to be the 16K front axle. I was at 14K on the front with only 10 tons, might have to get him to load it more towards the back. Overall, so far so good.
As long as I clutch going into 3rd/7th it doesn't pop out, just a little annoying but I can work with it for now. Still trying to get used to the gearing in this truck, with 4.88 rears you go through the lower 4 gears really fast, then 5-8 are bigger jumps. I think it will be fine once I figure it out. If I were driving it all day, every day, the 13spd may be benefical, but I'm not. It's just to support the construction business, not make a living hauling for others, truck will probably only see 5-10K miles a year.
Empty weight was less than I expected, 21,700 with half tank of fuel. I think my limiting factor is going to be the 16K front axle. I was at 14K on the front with only 10 tons, might have to get him to load it more towards the back. Overall, so far so good.
As long as I clutch going into 3rd/7th it doesn't pop out, just a little annoying but I can work with it for now. Still trying to get used to the gearing in this truck, with 4.88 rears you go through the lower 4 gears really fast, then 5-8 are bigger jumps. I think it will be fine once I figure it out. If I were driving it all day, every day, the 13spd may be benefical, but I'm not. It's just to support the construction business, not make a living hauling for others, truck will probably only see 5-10K miles a year.
skyking1
Senior Member
Nice! 22K empty and following the 34K rule, you can get 14 tons on there with 16/34 and no need for an overweight permit. That's a nice productive load.
Congratulations again.
Congratulations again.
crane operator
Senior Member
There's really no reason to put in a 13 or 18 speed with just a l10 in a three axle truck, it would be a waste of time and money. With deep rears like that, if you need to shift, you really need a full gear, splits don't do you any good, because you don't have enough power or speed to make it worth a 1/2 gear.
I think all the splits help a lot more in flatter country getting going, in short steep hills like I have, you're skipping three to five gears anyways.
Running around with 40-50,000 gross, a nine speed is just fine.
Glad everything worked on the first run.
I think all the splits help a lot more in flatter country getting going, in short steep hills like I have, you're skipping three to five gears anyways.
Running around with 40-50,000 gross, a nine speed is just fine.
Glad everything worked on the first run.
skyking1
Senior Member
Yes I think he purchased right.The only caveat to all that is when he gears up like me with a 20 ton tilt and starts pulling 68K. Then his engine could use a few more gears on the hills.
I'm low power at 325/1075 but I think it has significant more gut.
I'm low power at 325/1075 but I think it has significant more gut.
Around here seems that any triaxle today (73280 gross) has a 18 or 13. I can't speak as to what ratio but I'd guess 410s. But most also have 565 horse cummins or similar. Like crane op said with our 435 horse c12 /13 speed I can get the first split but if you need more that that you best start taking whole gears but our hills are about like mine shafts