1810E problems

[Shimmy1]

Anyone have any good ideas how to get this pin out? Pin is a 2.25" pin, there is about 7" of bore that it has to move in, plus the rod eye. Access is also a problem. Heated for almost an hour, had 10 ton porta-power, 16 lb sledge, rattled for 20 minutes with a 3050 Snap-on air hammer. No dice. Decided to just pull cylinder apart. Yeah right. Gland is frozen in barrel. Ideas??
Not sure I want to apply heat to the cylinder....

 

[Questionable wizard]

Exothermic torch and burn holes thru the pins. Once the holes are thru and the pin is cold, you'll be able to tap the pin out. If you don't have access to the torch, heat the pin and boss red hot and pour a bucket of water on them. You want the boss to shrink faster than the pin, breaking the corrosion.

You will need the seal kit for the cylinder. In this kit there will be a plastic ring to remove the gland. There is a snap ring limiting the outward removal of the gland. Tap the gland down into the barrel. You will expose a snap ring groove in the barrel ID. The plastic removal ring fits into this groove, filling the groove so the snap ring can't expand into it. Be sure to grease the the ID of the plastic ring before pulling/slamming the rod/gland out of the barrel.

 

[Shimmy1]

Exothermic torch and burn holes thru the pins. Once the holes are thru and the pin is cold, you'll be able to tap the pin out. If you don't have access to the torch, heat the pin and boss red hot and pour a bucket of water on them. You want the boss to shrink faster than the pin, breaking the corrosion.

You will need the seal kit for the cylinder. In this kit there will be a plastic ring to remove the gland. There is a snap ring limiting the outward removal of the gland. Tap the gland down into the barrel. You will expose a snap ring groove in the barrel ID. The plastic removal ring fits into this groove, filling the groove so the snap ring can't expand into it. Be sure to grease the the ID of the plastic ring before pulling/slamming the rod/gland out of the barrel.

The seal kit came from Deere. We just rebuilt a similar cylinder for an air drill, but this kit does not have the disassembly ring. Also, the gland is frozen in the barrel. We were striking that gland way harder than I was comfortable with, you can see the marks on the photo. I'm not liking the idea of putting a torch to that cylinder.

 

[Welder Dave]

Is there any space beside the cylinder rod end and mounting ears or can the cylinder move/be wedged side to side slightly? Maybe you could get a thin (.045") cutting disc on a grinder in there or a sawzall and cut the pin. Even if there were spacers or seals they could be easily replaced and not too expensive. I don't know if I'd want to heat it red hot and pour water on it. You'd be changing the properties of the steel.

 

[Shimmy1]

Very little room, the rod is wider than the cylinder eye. These pins are OEM Deere, hard as diamond, lol. I had a hell of a time cutting one off with the chop saw. I don't think a sawsall would do anything except scratch it....

 

[Welder Dave]

Would it be possible to weld a huge nut or piece of round bar (1-1/2"-1-3/4") on the end of the pin and use a pipe wrench with a snipe (or large impact wrench on a nut) to try and turn it? The instant heat from welding on just the pin might break the pin lose the same way broken bolts come out welding a nut to them or bearing races fall out welding on them. A piece of round bar could be beveled to get a really good weld on it. You could even buy a small pack of high strength welding rods (120,000 PSI) for difficult to weld steels. Maybe a thick piece of flat bar could be welded on so you could beat it with a hammer. Only problem then is the pin could only move one way. If something is welded on one end to try and turn the pin the other side might need some weld to break that side of the pin free. An exothermic torch would work but if don't have one or can't rent one could be a little costly for the odd pin to do.

 

[deerert295]

Exothermic torch mine came from cat tool group 30 yrs might have to cut long fuel rods down to a foot or so to get in space check cat dealer might loan you one or rock quarry practice first they burn hot and fast but will do the job just keep aligned with pin center

 

[Welder Dave]

An exothermic torch could also cause a lot worse damage if it accidently hit anything other than the pin.

 

[deerert295]

I'm not a mechanic or welder but that pin should be big enough to keep bore safe I have set up alignment shelf to guide longer rods 3 footers straight used one on 13 inch pin that held 613c elevator drive I think it was 13 inches long only 1.5 inch practice on something first I would run mine up if it was a bit closer. have not used mine in 7 or eight years but made a believer when I first used it.let me know if I could help

 

[Shimmy1]

Anyone have any ideas on getting the gland to move? Also, what does a guy use when the seal kit doesn't include the plastic ring that releases the internal snap ring?

 

[56wrench]

i agree on the exothermic torch and agree about being extra careful not to damage anything else other than the pin. if used, you could pierce halfway through from each end to lessen the chance of going off-centre and burning into other stuff. as for the gland, you will likely have to heat the barrel around the gland to break the rust. you should disconnect the hoses first

 

[Bls repair]

Use hollow hydraulic ram and all thread to pull pin. You tube videos show you what to do

 

[Shimmy1]

Well, we now have a more manageable situation. We got the gland to finally move (without heat, luckily) and just pulled the whole mess out in one piece. The fact that the rod eye is completely seized will not help the cause at all

 

[Shimmy1]

Well, I appreciate all the responses. A local guy had a spare hour and brought over a real torch. BTW, anyone on the fence over a CP717 or a Snappy 3050, GET THE CP.

 

[Tinkerer]

What kind of torch did he have ?
I have a big a## Harris like wrecking yards use. It makes some serious heat.

 

[Shimmy1]

What kind of torch did he have ?
I have a big a## Harris like wrecking yards use. It makes some serious heat.

I don't know, but I want one. Propane, had a rectangular head with 10 holes. Hot ba$tard. Needs 70 lbs of oxygen, and 15 of propane to run.

 

[Welder Dave]

For big heating propane is nice because you don't have to worry about withdrawal rates so can use a huge rosebud. Sounds like it may have been a railroad tip. Here's a comparison of heating tips. Notice that the largest ST800 series propane/natural gas heating tip puts out up to 830,000 BTU's... over 4 times more BTU's than the largest acetylene tip. The acetylene inner flame would be hotter though.

miller-heating-tips.pdf (oemeyer.com)

 

[Shimmy1]

Sounds like it may have been a railroad tip. Here's a comparison of heating tips. Notice that the largest ST800 series propane/natural gas heating tip puts out up to 830,000 BTU's... over 4 times more BTU's than the largest acetylene tip. The acetylene inner flame would be hotter though.

There it is. I knew one of you guys would know. Thanks, Dave.

 

[Welder Dave]

Uniweld has them too.

Thermite Welding Tip (TWN-5) – Uniweld Products, Inc.