• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

10 Ton Tag re-deck with 2 inch oak

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,604
Location
Kentucky
Again no pic, will post later, I'm exhausted it's high humidity and in the 90s

The good, the Bad and the Ugly

Good - Got the wood for a low cost, and would rather the wood be 1.5 but 2 inch works. Don't have enough 8 footers but have more 16 footers than needed "maybe"

Bad - It took so long for the guy to cut the wood, stuff started warping. So been using all kinds of things to fasten and bend boards into position, then drill and screw. If they are to warped, have ripped the boards straight using chalk line. Bought another carbide saw blade and things are going better

Ugly - Two of the 16 footers are 2.25 thick and don't want to use them, imagine putting one of those in the middle or one side, :rolleyes: . Middle not to bad if loading track or tire vehicle, but place pallet or other will cause issues. Found one that is 1.75 inch thick for first 18 inches, then goes to 2 inch, and I need 188 inch so not enough to use the whole board. Have been working the entire width trying to keeps the boards square, and dang this is hard

Have 27 inch (+/- 0.25) space to fill for 16 footers than go back to 8 footers. Maybe one more day I hope will finish. Could sure use a Industrial planner but that is for another lifetime
 

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,604
Location
Kentucky
Something that I started to wonder about
Broke the screws off with a hammer, than when needed used a grinder to make them flush.

Bit late, but should I have broke the other side of the screw off? Started thinking over time I think those screws will fall out of the channels and can puncture the tire.

I am getting the screws laid in a straight line and the center of the channel. Each time a new board is laid on, I measure the distance from each old screw to edge of board it will lay against. Use a Speed square to draw a line of center of channel. Move new board next to the position to the new wood. Then move the new wood to board previously screwed down and repeat
 

Tyler d4c

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2016
Messages
2,681
Location
Salix Pa
Heres what we have on our 20 ton. They are rubber with a aluminum channel in them they where the wear parts out of a ball mill. Dad made a gillatine type thing to cut them.

your post discribed guite well why he did
17845898987525332801882038386018.jpg
 

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,604
Location
Kentucky
Looks like maybe 1/2 to 9/16 gap between boards
I putting them with no gap, assuming when boards dry out there will be a gap
 

gwhammy

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2013
Messages
635
Location
missouri
Mag drill is a real time saver. Mine has annular and a drill chuck both for it. Cut some slots in 1 inch thick the other day cutting between the holes with a cut off wheel. Turned out lots better than a cutting torch. On trailer decks I've used flat head bolts with nuts underneath most of the time. Get the bolts longer and tighten then bend the ends of the bolts to lock the nuts. The self tapping are a pain if board gets bad or bolt breaks. I've also put boards under the deck and screwed the boards to that with just a few bolts holding the deck to the frame. I tend to tear lots of boards up with exc and skid steer attachments.
 
Top