Earthing a Genset/Welder

Am I supposed to have an earthing strap between the body/casing of a Genset/Welder when using if its on rubber tyres?

Every piece of metal on the unit and its trailer should all be bonded together electrically, but it really serves no purpose to connect it to the dirt, nor is it really possible to make a good connection to the dirt out in the field.

I think what you are asking about concerns it being possible for a mobile generator being able to short out in some way making it possible for the generator frame and the vehicle it is sitting on becoming charged. To that question I don't know but I can't image nor have I ever heard of it happening. Maybe someone on here might provide the technical stuff to answer that question.

I did go through the ground question about a year ago with a 480 volt Cat generator. All currents will try to return to their source so the wiring from a mobile source that you use to hook up to what ever you are trying to power should provide that pathway. What that suggests to me is that the problem of a short is more a risk with the item you powering rather than the source of the electricity.

hmmmm its a interesting question I have never seen somebody earth a welder but it would come as no surprise if our mining inspectors were to require it
If you were to be running a piece of equipment off the generator side then it would most defiantly be required to be grounded as any generator portable or stationary absolutely must be earthed tested and verified according to msha rules means your asking from across the pond and didn't say what the perceived issue was most of that information won't matter

Was required at the Nuke and the Company's other power stations. Watched a Electrician take a jug of water and a grounding rod, pour a little water, wiggle and push down on the rod, worked for about forty five minutes and had that rod 6-7 feet in the ground, Wetted. Electricians validated the grounding for the generator. Used anywhere on the plant Protected area grounds there were fixed in place grounding electrodes to the ground grid beneath the grade, simple as connecting a clamp.

Used a home spun similar to a T-post puller to remove the rod when completed.

Here is the OSHA regulation.

https://www.osha.gov/sites/default/files/publications/grounding_port_generator.pdf

Just have steel belted radials with the cords sticking out, should work fine!

It probably depends on how your generator is wired up. Is the neutral bonded to the generator frame or is it an isolated type? An isolated type is when the active and neutral is not bonded to the generator or frame.


Otherwise here is an easy solution.

.RC. said:

It probably depends on how your generator is wired up. Is the neutral bonded to the generator frame or is it an isolated type? An isolated type is when the active and neutral is not bonded to the generator or frame.
Otherwise here is an easy solution.
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I can ALMOST attest to seeing similar, on the tows when the main and usually ONLY generator crapped out, and out would come whatever could be scrounged where wiring was almost to some form of a code

That OSHA paper sums it up, if it is cord and plug connected then no rod is needed. If it is connected to permanent wiring then the rod is probably already in place, at the main service, so use that one.

Independent and/or isolated ground rods are usually more of a safety hazard than anything useful, and are certainly a waste of time. Bonding needs to be back to the source, that is, the main generator and its frame.

Thank you everyone who has contributed to this thread. it is much appreciated!