Reusing old head cylinder bolts

Sam1734 · Feb 21, 2021

John C. said:
Old machine with an old way of torquing the head bolts down. They are not pulled into yield and the firing pressures are not that high to begin with. Some pitting is pretty normal. Use a scribe to dig around the bottom of the bolt holes in the block and then run a bottom tap down the hole to clean the threads. There may be a spec for the length of the bolts for a go / no go test to tell you if you need to replace the bolt. The pre-cups are something I've never had to deal with. I have sent heads to Portland, Oregon to a place called Diesel Cast Welding but I don't know if they are still in business or not. They did good work for me on some Fat Allis heads years ago.

Yes, I think the specs for the Bolts are in the shop manual, I will definitely check it as soon as I get the pre-cup issues addressed, Thanks much.

Sam1734 · Feb 21, 2021

Old Magnet said:
Yes, I am a retired Mechanical Engineer.
See if you can get the PM function going on this website to contact me. I really don't want to post my email on an open forum. May be a few bumps as I don't make use of that function on this site, I usually can be found on the ACMOC Cat website.

Totally understandable, I will have to figure the message function out...LOL!

lantraxco · Feb 21, 2021

John C. said:
Old machine with an old way of torquing the head bolts down. They are not pulled into yield and the firing pressures are not that high to begin with. Some pitting is pretty normal. Use a scribe to dig around the bottom of the bolt holes in the block and then run a bottom tap down the hole to clean the threads. There may be a spec for the length of the bolts for a go / no go test to tell you if you need to replace the bolt. The pre-cups are something I've never had to deal with. I have sent heads to Portland, Oregon to a place called Diesel Cast Welding but I don't know if they are still in business or not. They did good work for me on some Fat Allis heads years ago.

https://www.dieselcastwelding.com/

Tenwheeler · Feb 21, 2021

I would not reuse head bolts with pits unless patching it for auction. Pits are a starting point for a crack and bolt failure.
Have bought some things from Con Equipment with good success.

Sberry · Feb 21, 2021

If I am looking at this right a eze lok is ready made. Not sure why a guy would want stainless?

Sam1734 · Feb 22, 2021

Tenwheeler said:
I would not reuse head bolts with pits unless patching it for auction. Pits are a starting point for a crack and bolt failure.
Have bought some things from Con Equipment with good success.

Bolts are on hold right now until I get the pre-cup issue fixed.

Sam1734 · Feb 22, 2021

Sberry said:
If I am looking at this right a eze lok is ready made. Not sure why a guy would want stainless?

Why buy when I can make it, I have a total of $7.00 in stainless turning stock. I chose stainless primarily for it's properties with heat, corrosion, and strength.

LCA078 · Mar 10, 2021

Sam1734 said:
Why buy when I can make it, I have a total of $7.00 in stainless turning stock. I chose stainless primarily for it's properties with heat, corrosion, and strength.

Making your own custom thread repair inserts can be a very rewarding or a painful experience. Depends on how much time and experience you have with lathes and such. I'd personally go for it.

Any special depths/tolerances to be worried about?

Sam1734 · Mar 10, 2021

LCA078 said:
Making your own custom thread repair inserts can be a very rewarding or a painful experience. Depends on how much time and experience you have with lathes and such. I'd personally go for it.

Any special depths/tolerances to be worried about?

Yes, I'm having to work with 9/16 of material inside of a water jacket. I have to keep the insert level with the head surface and at a slight pitch. I've had to make some special jigs to insert into the pre-cup chamber holes to get the correct angle. I have made 4 inserts so far that are just sitting there because I'm not sure of, because I know there really is no room for error on this application...LOL!

LCA078 · Mar 10, 2021

Sam1734 said:
I know there really is no room for error on this application...LOL!

Yup- That's a tight one and not much metal to play with. I'm not sure what tools and setup you have available (mills, solid quill drill presses, hand held power drills, etc.) but your setup and jig will be the most important aspects. Sounds like you have two good sets of threads in two cylinders to work off when setting up your jig. Did you thread up a straight rod that screws into the good holes and line up your jig to it? Use that same rod to shim the head on the table so it's square to the quill (if you got one)? I'm kinda lucky I have full access to not just all the right tools but also my dad was a master machinist (tool and die maker actually) and gave me lots of lessons in our home shop. Let me know you want to bounce off any ideas...or just need moral support to hit the 'on' button on a drill! Sometimes that's the hardest part!

Sam1734 · Mar 11, 2021

LCA078 said:
Yup- That's a tight one and not much metal to play with. I'm not sure what tools and setup you have available (mills, solid quill drill presses, hand held power drills, etc.) but your setup and jig will be the most important aspects. Sounds like you have two good sets of threads in two cylinders to work off when setting up your jig. Did you thread up a straight rod that screws into the good holes and line up your jig to it? Use that same rod to shim the head on the table so it's square to the quill (if you got one)? I'm kinda lucky I have full access to not just all the right tools but also my dad was a master machinist (tool and die maker actually) and gave me lots of lessons in our home shop. Let me know you want to bounce off any ideas...or just need moral support to hit the 'on' button on a drill! Sometimes that's the hardest part!

I actually used the old pre-cup that stripped and bored it out on my Southbend to the final diameter of the insert and "rigged" a clamp to clamp it down. I have most of wha tI need but just can't find a good mill right now but that is definitely on my to get list..LOL! I really like the older machinery, for some reason they give a satisfactory result. My Southbend is old military surplus from the 40's that is tight.

LCA078 · Mar 11, 2021

Sam1734 said:
I actually used the old pre-cup that stripped and bored it out on my Southbend to the final diameter of the insert and "rigged" a clamp to clamp it down.

That's a great idea! I'm surprised you could bore out a cup as I thought they would be hardened up to a decent rockwell. Either way, it'll make a great jig.

Sam1734 said:
I really like the older machinery, for some reason they give a satisfactory result. My Southbend is old military surplus from the 40's that is tight.

Our first piece of machinery in our garage was a flatbelt 9" Southbend. Still have it in the old man's garage, oiled down and covered up. I turned many a bolt, sleeve, and gun barrel on that lathe as a kid growing up. I learned a LOT from my dad. After he retired as a tool and die maker, he opened up his one-man shop and filled it with military surplus tools...not one had a computerized brain on it. Keep looking for a good mill- it's an amazing asset!

Send pics of your finished head when done!

Sam1734 · May 22, 2021

Does anyone know if there is a rebuild kit for the Cat D333A fuel injection pump 9H3707?

John C. · May 22, 2021

You used to be able to buy gasket sets but that might not be an option any more. I don't ever remember cylinder packs. You had to buy bearings in sets but I don't recall complete engine kits. Not even in the 3306 engines.

Sam1734 · May 22, 2021

John C. said:
You used to be able to buy gasket sets but that might not be an option any more. I don't ever remember cylinder packs. You had to buy bearings in sets but I don't recall complete engine kits. Not even in the 3306 engines.

And if they have one it’s probably outrageous….lol

Bluox · May 22, 2021

Sam1734 said:
Does anyone know if there is a rebuild kit for the Cat D333A fuel injection pump 9H3707?

No it needs to go to an injection shop .And it's a D 333 no A.
Bob

Reusing old head cylinder bolts

Sam1734

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Sam1734

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lantraxco

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Tenwheeler

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Sberry

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Sam1734

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LCA078

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Sam1734

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