Roosa Master pump tool.

If the flex ring had broken up.. the symptoms would be.. run for 5-10-20 SECONDS and shut down..(original problem)
U replaced the flex ring & it ran great for 30 MINUTES.. u let it sit for a month & now your back to the original problem.. ok, I got it now.
Yeah, first thing to check in my opinion is a dirt/stuck return connector.. hence the post about taking ALL the fittings off the top cover.. Chances r that the connector DIDNT get replaced at the time of original repair..
So let’s say ALL the fittings are removed and the engine starts but still shuts off.. THEN I would move to the fuel inlet side of the pump..
The 580c/k are GRAVITY FED..
meaning the fuel gets to the pump with no pump in between to PUSH the fuel to the injection pump.. (Supply Pump)
So seeing the original problem was the flex ring.. assume that most of the flex ring broke up and was pushed back to the fuel tank..
It’s NOW TIME to take the line from the tank to the filter off and check the flow..just incase the flex ring bits aren’t blocking the fuel tank OUTLET..
Get yourself a 5 gallon bucket, TAKE THE LINE OFF AT THE FILTER & stick it in the bucket & WATCH THE FLOW.. it SHOULD BE GUSHING fuel...IF it’s not, u have a blockage..
There’s only 1 FIX.. take the fitting out of the tank and flush the debris out..
Or.. do like millions of people and “back-blow” the line to the tank..w compressed air..it’ll clear the blockage to allow the fuel to GUSH out of the line.. UNTIL the debis covers the outlet again..
If u look closely at the bottom of the tank, you’ll see a petcock..
THATS THE FUEL TANK DRAIN..
Open it up and water & garbage should drain out..
9x outta 10.. it’s clogged & you’ll need a wire coat hanger jammed up inside’r to get it freed up..
Once u get the drain cleaned out & the tank back-blown, hook all the lines back up & CHANGE THE FILTERS.!!!
Loosen the line going into the pump & wait until fuel starts to pour out & tighten..
Push the stop cable to the RUN POSITION.. Move the THROTTLE TO WIDE OPEN.. and try to start it.. if it doesn’t start after multiple times, loosen ALL THE LINES AT THE INJECTORS..& try to start again.. crank until fuel starts to spit out of the loosened lines and NO AIR.. THEN TIGHTEN up the lines.
It’ll start now..
Once u get it running, start putting the fittings back on the top cover..
COUNT TO 5 between adding another fitting.. this will tell u what is clogged up..but experience tells me it’ll b either the 1st fitting or the last line going to the tank..
Good luck.

That is pretty good. So, I eluded to the fact that this engine has a transfer pump, sounds like maybe that was missed in this conversation. We did run a test and got fuel gushing. I even Declan the inlet fitting but I will go back and insure a supply. That was really the first thing we checked, sounded just like a failed pump. For sport the helper even changed it out as we had one. At one point had a pretty healthy stream by gravity.
This has been good help, as soon as I can am going to start right over. Was kind of a surprise, we done this half a dozen times.

First time I put it together didn't even bleed inj lines, brought fuel up to it, started right up and cleared smooth in 15 seconds or so. BTW, this is on JD 310. I forget what model, MD something. Old enough it had the Bristol screw. Had relatively new filter on it with clear bowl.

I had the fuel tank out of a dresser the other day, different job. No transfer pump on that one. I was thinking it might be a problem due to the head difference but it zipped right up.
Fixed the tank, super cleaned it before putting top on.

if it's a JD with a transfer pump, that changes things a little. JD likes to put a big plastic suction screen around the intake inside the tank, that works great until it plugs up and gets sucked flat and blocks off the intake. There's probably enough fuel inside the plastic screen to run for oh, maybe like 30 seconds?

The transfer pumps with a priming lever have a built in digital self diagnostic feature, you take your digits and pump that thing and you can tell if it's sucking against a vacuum, or pumping fuel, or pumped up the fuel and the diaphragm is not pushing back against the lever. If you know that the spring loaded diaphragm produces the fuel pressure, and the cam and/or lever retract that diaphragm, then you can figure out what it's doing.

But check the outlet fitting first...

We had a mixed up day due to medical and it didn't help the trouble shooting. I took it off the other day, any problem with me taking the timing peg out of the flywheel and whizzing it around to double check the primary flow? Seems it was good, we had a little too much help at the time. Just one of those things. Never really occurred to me suction screen might be a thang. It was pouring fuel thru easy with about a foot in the tank, prolly just above the pump maybe and how much it need at idle?

I couldn't tell you if the timing gears will stay in place without the injection pump. You can check the valves to get it back to the right stroke. I'd see what you find in the outlet fittings before doing anything else.

Delmer said:

I couldn't tell you if the timing gears will stay in place without the injection pump. You can check the valves to get it back to the right stroke. I'd see what you find in the outlet fittings before doing anything else.

Click to expand...

I've had my share of pumps of that series of john deere engines and never had one go out of time there. There is not enough room for the gear to come out of mesh with the other gears

Seemsthere was a step by step manual on line for assembly of this.

Ok, we got side tracked but it runs. It's quite responsive. What adjusts the idle?

Depending on the pump #, the low idle could have 1 or 2 adjustments.
If it has a screw on the lever AND 1 on the top cover.
U back the one OUT on the top cover & run the one on the throttle shaft down until low idle rpm is reached.. THEN BACK IT OUT 1 full turn..
THEN run the screw on the top cover DOWN until the correct rpm is reached..
If it only has 1 screw on the throttle, run it up or down to achieve the correct rpm..

Got it, thanks. That saves me a lot of grief. Yes it has 2 screws, one on the cover. I will snap a pic today and I have one other thing to fix yet. Stuck hand throttle. This is a neighbor machine. It wasn't busy, if it was booked we would have got on this earlier but it's now starting spring thaw and I got a job come up I need it.
It's not much of a loader but it digs well, needs a few minor hoses yet but it's decent tight, not all busted welded up.

Here is a pic. Seems it needs another screw on the throttle arm? To set the low?

It’s supposed to have 1..
I’ll bet I’ve seen thousands without one tho..IDK why.??

Ok, I am a little slow this morning. It seems the one on the arm limits hi speed if I am looking at it correct but that's not always for sure. Seems the little hole on the left needs a screw to set the low stop but maybe I look at this wrong.

All u gotta do is move the throttle to figure that out..
Right side is HI IDLE.
Left side is LOW IDLE. (Needs screw)
That’s what we’ve been talking about for these past 5 posts..

That's what I thought, I was just being clear, it needs a screw.

I wasn't the primary mechanic, this was kind of s rescue job. I thought I looked at a drawing and saw 1 screw on the linkage similar to this one, had me shop for a bit. I don't see it in the book, I will add one. I have another one identical I should have looked at but it wasn't home.
As for pouring it over and pontificating here, we'll it's kind of the point isn't it? Wouldn't have much use for all this if it wasn't.
Unit is running great, we need new throttle cable yet.

I had to finally put it all together as we had some incentive. I will get a couple better action shots
Not much of a loader but good little digger.
Dug thru a foot of frozen road no problem. We have a pretty fair operator which helps.

Thanks for the help. found a screw this morning and tuned it runs great.