HF 1” Air Impact, low power

Nige · Oct 19, 2020

crane operator said:
The hose and adapter size is your big loss, just like everyone else just pointed out. I'll also tell you that you will experience some loss of impacting power by adding adapters to fit different drive size sockets. Those adaptors and/or extensions will soak up some of the hammer action.

Agreed. And furthermore don't go using non-impact (silver) sockets on an impact gun. One of these days one of them will split wide open while you are hammering and shrapnel will fly everywhere. If you're lucky they will all miss the guy holding the impact gun. To quote Clint Eastwood - "D'ya feel lucky, punk.?"

Delmer · Oct 19, 2020

And while we're at it, a 1" to 3/4" adapter to a 3/4" non impact socket makes it even worse. Stick with the 1/4" air line though, and you'll be fine

mitch504 · Oct 19, 2020

Jonas302 said:
psi and flow is far to low plus its a cheap gun but I think it should do what your asking A 1/2 inch hose at 175 psi will do what you need occasionally have cheated and ran 2 or three 1/4 inch lines into a 1 inch gun

Remember, it goes by area, not diameter, so it takes 4 1/4" lines to equal 1 1/2" hose.

Nige · Oct 19, 2020

mitch504 said:
Remember, it goes by area, not diameter, so it takes 4 1/4" lines to equal 1 1/2" hose.

Absolutely correct.
Cross-sectional area of a hose is proportional to the square of the diameter.
1/4 squared = 1/16
1/2 squared = 1/4
1 squared = 1

Therefore as Mitch says it would require four 1/4" bore hoses to equal the cross-sectional area of a 1/2" hose or sixteen of them to equal the area of a 1" bore hose.
Or four 1/2" bore hoses to equal one 1" bore.

hosspuller · Oct 19, 2020

Nige said:
Absolutely correct.
Cross-sectional area of a hose is proportional to the square of the diameter.
1/4 squared = 1/16
1/2 squared = 1/4
1 squared = 1

Therefore as Mitch says it would require four 1/4" bore hoses to equal the cross-sectional area of a 1/2" hose or sixteen of them to equal the area of a 1" bore hose.
Or four 1/2" bore hoses to equal one 1" bore.

And all of that will be strangled by One 1/4 quick connect.

Birdseye · Oct 19, 2020

Definitely aspire to be OSHA compliant!

Speaking of osha, for the occasional use that I’m looking at, I really like the close-by auxiliary tank with a 1/4” QC feed and a 5/8” garden hose on barbed fittings direct to the gun....simple, effective, maybe even safe !

thanks

mitch504 · Oct 19, 2020

Keep in mind though, that an impact wrench builds up to max torque, so you need to be able to hammer it hard for about 60 seconds for max power.

I have plenty of air to my big IR guns, but I never look to an impact wrench to break tough things loose. I weigh 250 pounds, so with a 10' pipe, I can develop 2500 lbs pulling down, more pushing up. I carry 2 9' pipes in my truck that telescope, so I can get about 16' of leverage.

edgephoto · Oct 19, 2020

As @mitch504 said, impacts are not the go to for breaking something free that is tight. You need leverage for that. Long pipe and/or torque multiplier.

You can also get a short power boost with a bit of oil into the impact gun.

Check Break · Oct 20, 2020

If you run across someone with a CP0611, give it a try. Much less work and safer than a cheater.

stinky64 · Oct 20, 2020

A guy I work with just bought a 3/4 drive earthquake impact from garbage freight with a super coupon for about $250.00 and in true g.f. fashion the first one worked for about 9 of 10 lugs on a big truck then just about seized...the replacement gun he got is a bad mother..that thing spins every thing off w/3/8 air...lugs ,pinion nuts off trannys and diffs I had to eat some crap after the giggle fest I had with the first one..I've been waitin' for that super coupon..gonna try my luck..

Birdseye · Oct 20, 2020

Re @mitch504’s point about using a cheater and not the impact to break free these super tight bolts....I’ve discovered that thru trial and error . It was only when my lousy air setup didn’t enable my “2000 ft-lb” impact to deliver more than 400 ft-lb. that I too used the cheater pipe.

What I discovered is that for occasional use, the cheater works fine and gets it done, although a pita to be messing around with the long pipe and sometimes requires two people. I also saw that they use some sort of military grade thread locker on the cylinder rod bolts that truly need to be broken free, after said thread locker’s bond is broken the bolts come out without much effort. Also , on the tightening side , with a cheater I can calculate the torque setting like @mitch504 said, I can’t do that with the impact. So I’m wondering how useful this HF (or GF

) impact will be for my needs .

Thread locker photo:

colson04 · Oct 20, 2020

Birdseye said:
Re @mitch504’s point about using a cheater and not the impact to break free these super tight bolts....I’ve discovered that thru trial and error . It was only when my lousy air setup didn’t enable my “2000 ft-lb” impact to deliver more than 400 ft-lb. that I too used the cheater pipe.

What I discovered is that for occasional use, the cheater works fine and gets it done, although a pita to be messing around with the long pipe and sometimes requires two people. I also saw that they use some sort of military grade thread locker on the cylinder rod bolts that truly need to be broken free, after said thread locker’s bond is broken the bolts come out without much effort. Also , on the tightening side , with a cheater I can calculate the torque setting like @mitch504 said, I can’t do that with the impact. So I’m wondering how useful this HF (or GF ) impact will be for my needs .

Thread locker photo:
View attachment 226159 View attachment 226160

Depending on application, heat becomes your friend when thread locker is involved, especially if the threaded hole is in aluminum. If i suspect red loctite or equivalent was used, I reach for a torch and heat the area before attempting to break the bolt loose.

Check Break · Oct 20, 2020

It helps to have a shop manual so you know what you're up against. If it's loctite and 600lbs of torque, you'll know what you have to do both directions.

Birdseye · Oct 20, 2020

There is a YouTube video of this fella who heats a rod end bolt for about 2 minutes using a cutting torch. He gets it HOT. I fear that amount of heat would damage the hardness of the bolt and the rod. But that bolt came right out. Seems easier to use a cheater to me.

John C. · Oct 20, 2020

People have been using heat on hydraulic cylinder rod nuts and bolts since long before I started in the industry. The only problems I've seen anyone have is when they didn't tighten it up to spec when they put them back together.

mitch504 · Oct 20, 2020

Check Break said:
If you run across someone with a CP0611, give it a try. Much less work and safer than a cheater.

I looked at that, air consumption at full load is 68 cfm!

Check Break · Oct 20, 2020

Looks like the new model uses an additional 20cfm. I own two old model 0611PASED-s and there's another one that's community property in the shop. An online reference says it uses 12cfm/15 sec., 48cfm/min. I never really thought about how much air it uses, as the shop compressor's tank is big enough to handle the flow. 15 sec-s is a long time. By then whatever you're wrenching on has broken loose and is spinning free or easy. It takes volume, not pressure, to run a 2 ton gun, as over 90psi is destructive. Our oldest gun is at least 20 years old and she's as good as the day she arrived. They're no beauty queens, just heavy and tough. I once read that CP built these specifically for the iron workers building the World Trade Center. Who knows.

.RC. · Oct 21, 2020

Nige said:
Think of psi as horsepower and flow as torque. Which one really does the work..?

It is actually the other way around. The air flow is the work, the PSI is the torque. Think like a hydraulic ram. The amount of force that can be applied is the psi, how quickly the ram moves is the flow. AFAIK all fluid devices work on the principle of pressure over an area. In the case of an air vane motor, pressure behind the vanes.

Birdseye · Oct 21, 2020

So how do you guys and the professional hydraulic shops get the bolt back in and tightened to spec , does anyone own/use a torque wrench capable of 1200 lbs or is it the common practice to coat the bolt with thread-locker and just make that darn bolt as tight as you can however you can ? Of course the factory has some very precise setup to torque these bolts to the exact requirement but I imagine that few others have this capability.

Nige · Oct 21, 2020

Birdseye said:
So how do you guys and the professional hydraulic shops get the bolt back in and tightened to spec.

A cylinder bench is the correct answer. Any decent hydraulic shop will have one, the only differences will be in the maximum torque a particular bench can apply and that will depend very much on what the shop's local market (as regards cylinder size) is.

The one in these photos goes up to 6,000 ft. lb. of torque.

HF 1” Air Impact, low power

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