mg2361
Senior Member
O-ring between the sections T118685
Inside diameter = 3.484"
Nominal section (thickness) = 0.139"
Durometer = 70
Inside diameter = 3.484"
Nominal section (thickness) = 0.139"
Durometer = 70
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John Deere 310 SE Project
- Thread starter boone
- Start date
Thanks for double checking. I got 5 of the new Deere T118685 rings on Friday. I'll try to get a picture comparing the one's the shop put in.
Definitely going with all Deere seals in this thing. I was a bit worried when I took this to a third party shop anyway, that they wouldn't have any special seals, but was hoping maybe they would. Lesson learned on this one.
I've ordered the #13 replacement spring and will pick that up at Warrior tomorrow, they didn't have it in stock. Also should get the Deere spool seal kits today or tomorrow in the mail.
The spools look good, but we may polish them a bit where the seals ride.
Spool kits (AT280406) came in Monday. In order to get the 2 wiper, 2 inner spool seals and at most 2 spool end o-rings, you must buy 100 other o-rings in these kits. There are 13 individual labeled packets of rings in each of these kits.
They're all cleaned up ready to go back together. The spring retainers and springs have been cleaned of their rust.
We installed the inner seal using the wiper seal and a piece of pipe over the spool. I didn't have any luck finding the special tool JDG734. The dealer said they didn't have one to loan out. Lubed up the seal, used a clamp to apply light consistent pressure and a screw driver to persuade the lip on it's proper direction. Worked like a charm.
After the seal was in, the wiper could be removed to inspect the inner seal.
Here's a picture of the o-ring Wynn's used when they "resealed" this thing. They also reused the old 20 year old wiper seals. It's no wonder it was destined to fail.
We installed the inner seal using the wiper seal and a piece of pipe over the spool. I didn't have any luck finding the special tool JDG734. The dealer said they didn't have one to loan out. Lubed up the seal, used a clamp to apply light consistent pressure and a screw driver to persuade the lip on it's proper direction. Worked like a charm.
After the seal was in, the wiper could be removed to inspect the inner seal.
Here's a picture of the o-ring Wynn's used when they "resealed" this thing. They also reused the old 20 year old wiper seals. It's no wonder it was destined to fail.
JL Sargent
Senior Member
Thank you for the continued great write up. This will surely help others doing this work.
No problem. I hope it will help someone.
We got it mounted this eve, but still need to hook up all the lines. I'm almost afraid to try it.
Tags
Senior Member
You shouldn’t be afraid to try it… It looks like you did a better job than the “professional“ hydraulic shop you took it to the first time.
Nothing is more disappointing than taking something to a place that is supposed to be proficient at repairing such things and finding out that you would have been better off doing it yourself. Unfortunately, the harsh reality of it is, if you went back to them and showed them what they did, they probably wouldn’t give a sh!t…
Nothing is more disappointing than taking something to a place that is supposed to be proficient at repairing such things and finding out that you would have been better off doing it yourself. Unfortunately, the harsh reality of it is, if you went back to them and showed them what they did, they probably wouldn’t give a sh!t…
You've said what dad and I were thinking this whole time.
Well, the yard needed mowing, but my curiosity got the best of me. Got the lines back on and put all 5 gallons of fluid I had on hand. New fluid...again. It was dark by the time I got the fluid in. Ran if for maybe 20 minutes outside the barn just cycling through all the motions getting it up to temp. NO LEAKS! Next week I have a stump to dig out and that will be the true test when I hit the reliefs and get it hot. I slept good last night.
Fred from MO
Well-Known Member
Well that was quite the deal. I think your dad may have gotten a shot of hydraulic fluid on him filming that leak! Or it was CLOSE!! That was quite the leak!!! Nothing more dissappointing than having someone do shoddy work. I hate that for you. Looks like you have this nailed though. Now I know who to go to if my valve bank leaks or if I need an o-ring and dont want to buy 100. Great JoB!! Are you putting hyguard in your machine or regular hydraulic oil?
Haha Fred, the phone got a bit of oil on it. I think Dad may have been spared. Yes, it's been quite the ordeal. Should've just done this to begin with. Sure would've saved me some grief and money.
I didn't get to play with it this weekend, but I did add some hydraulic fluid. I've been using Hygard in everything but the hydraulics. The hydraulics get Travelers Premium hydraulic fluid for the reason that I've dumped so much into it. I'd go broke using Hygard in it. I bought 5 gallons of 10w30 motor oil that I topped it off with this weekend. It's a little higher quality and a bit more $ than the TSC fluid.
JL Sargent
Senior Member
I knew that the G series 310s were compatible with motor oil on the hydraulic side of things, but E series? Hadn't seen or heard that. IMHO the transmission has to have Hygard, just no way around it. The main hydraulic tank on mine (310E) does have some Travelers in it.
That's interesting. I can't speak to the differences in the E and G hydraulic systems that make one recommend it and one not.
From the research I've done, cheap hydraulic fluid has the lowest additive package of any oil. It's not regulated. Holds no certifications. It may say it can be used in place of xyz, but it's not the same as far as the additive package. No one holds the cheap oil accountable. I know TSC oil doesn't contain anti-chatter additives that say Hygard and Hytran use. I know this based on our Dresser 175C which uses Travelers and chatters like crazy and this 310 which chattered before I put Hygard in it. It no longer does.
Motor oils are certified, if labeled, and have accountable standards. Motor oils also have a number of additives and detergents that hydraulic systems probably don't need, but in general are safe to use as long as the viscosity is correct. I'm sure there are exceptions. I'm not recommending anyone do this.
I was mainly looking for something better than straight TSC hydraulic fluid, but not as expensive as Hygard.
From the research I've done, cheap hydraulic fluid has the lowest additive package of any oil. It's not regulated. Holds no certifications. It may say it can be used in place of xyz, but it's not the same as far as the additive package. No one holds the cheap oil accountable. I know TSC oil doesn't contain anti-chatter additives that say Hygard and Hytran use. I know this based on our Dresser 175C which uses Travelers and chatters like crazy and this 310 which chattered before I put Hygard in it. It no longer does.
Motor oils are certified, if labeled, and have accountable standards. Motor oils also have a number of additives and detergents that hydraulic systems probably don't need, but in general are safe to use as long as the viscosity is correct. I'm sure there are exceptions. I'm not recommending anyone do this.
I was mainly looking for something better than straight TSC hydraulic fluid, but not as expensive as Hygard.
Fred from MO
Well-Known Member
You're gonna have to re-wax that thing if you keep using it to dig stuff!! LOL Also I am jealous, you dont seem to nearly have the amount of rocks in your soil that I do!!
I know, I can't be having any dust on it. The soil varies around here. No rocks here or much at the farm. Weekend after this I have a dig and bury job at my brothers, so we'll find out if we hit rock or not. It's the same place we did the drive-way project on my track loader thread. The old barn has been demo'd and he's just about burned all the wood and now needs the concrete and blocks buried. After that have a tile job the farm. Going to replace the galvanized pipe on the road leading up to the barn. Should be dry enough to tackle. She's might get a little muddy.
Got knocked out of my dig and bury job today, so thought I'd repack my swing cylinders. They were keeping the rear frame wet. I didn't want to see any oil near this infamous valve-bank.
We used a coffing hoist tied to the front of a tractor to pull the cylinders out.
For anyone doing this on their 310 E/SE and maybe other series, the piston nut is 46mm.
Had a nick on one of the cylinders.
We sanded it down with 600 grit and then 2000 then 3000 grit. Got it as smooth as we could.
We used a coffing hoist tied to the front of a tractor to pull the cylinders out.
For anyone doing this on their 310 E/SE and maybe other series, the piston nut is 46mm.
Had a nick on one of the cylinders.
We sanded it down with 600 grit and then 2000 then 3000 grit. Got it as smooth as we could.
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