Hoist piston end cap removal question?

OCR said:

ATCOEQUIP, I forgot to ask this question... so while we're still here...

In post #9 of this thread you state:



You use the flat head, not the round (peen) head??

I would suppose the round head makes to big of a dimple??


OCR...

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You got it! I said to use a ball peen hammer because it's a mechanic thing. If a mechanic see's someone working on machine parts and components using a "claw hammer", our eye's pop out like a stomped on bullfrog! We feel that claw hammers are for drivin' nails, not beatin' on cylinders. Also, I don't use a "dead blow" hammer for this procedure, just a plain ole' ball peen, because I want the hammer to bounce. It allows you to develope a repetative hammer motion with the least amount of arm muscle. Just kinda use the wrist to let the hammer hit the cylinder, then bounce up, and the wrist/arm to do it again. Much less fatigue than with a dead blow hammer.

Read you loud and clear, ATCOEQUIP.

Just kinda use the wrist to let the hammer hit the cylinder, then bounce up, and the wrist/arm to do it again.

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Just like a hammer to an anvil...


OCR...

Lucky it worked because I went out and bought a new ballpeen hammer I had a big one and a little one but I need one that was just right? Sound like a familar story? I really did buy a new one and it was just right not to heavy to mall and not to light to be a woodpecker. Otherwise I would be using my brick hammer or lump hammer but then it would not have looked like mechanical work would it?

Tools never go to waste even if you never use them you know you are prepared, or at least think you are which is comforting even if not reality. Now on to the other 4 hoist pistons and how many others on the Lull? I don't even want to count them.:Banghead Will be nice to have dry clean machines again. Hell I even bought a ton of seals for it all. Parts guy must be saying man this guy is having no luck!

After mastering this I think I will try forging a sword like I saw on TV recently!

Speedpup said:

but then it would not have looked like mechanical work would it?

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No... it would have looked like a stomped on bullfrog, by anyone who saw you, that is... :lmao


OCR...

For sure, that is how to do it. I posted that I was having trouble with the same cap removal. Alrman posted a link to this thread. I had just gotten my hot wrench re filled and planned to use it. I read this thread and tried it. About 25 hammer peens and a 2 foot cheater on the spanner and it turned. Took less than 5 minutes. Damm, Tennesseans are smart! At least some of them are.

I have no idea how much time and trouble I was saved.

Thanks!!!!!

Nitelite said:

Damm, Tennesseans are smart! At least some of them are.

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Oh heck no, don't include me in that crowd.

Good to hear it helped Nitelite. :drinkup

I'm sold on Noalox It is a grease with additives including zinc. It is designed for aluminum threaded conduit joints, has been commonly used on aluminum wiring connections. It is available at Home Depot in electrical department, or wholesalers. I use it everywhere. Battery terminals especially. Batteries last forever with it on the terminals.

Assemble your cylinder, just start the thread, put a small amount on the thread, (half teaspoon) and assemble.

Yair . . .

Well there you go then, I have always used the ball face of the hammer but, as I mentioned up thread, many times lightly, it bruises the paint off pretty good but barely leaves any dimples.

I had always imagined the stretching action to be a milder version of the blunt cold chisel blows on the flats of a large recalcitrant nut.

Cheers.

It worked.
Another gland nut saved from savagery.
Thank you so very much.

Speedpup said:

Lucky it worked because I went out and bought a new ballpeen hammer I had a big one and a little one but I need one that was just right? Sound like a familar story? I really did buy a new one and it was just right not to heavy to mall and not to light to be a woodpecker. Otherwise I would be using my brick hammer or lump hammer but then it would not have looked like mechanical work would it?

Tools never go to waste even if you never use them you know you are prepared, or at least think you are which is comforting even if not reality. Now on to the other 4 hoist pistons and how many others on the Lull? I don't even want to count them.:Banghead Will be nice to have dry clean machines again. Hell I even bought a ton of seals for it all. Parts guy must be saying man this guy is having no luck!

After mastering this I think I will try forging a sword like I saw on TV recently!

Click to expand...

Oh, I get it! A comedian. Yuk Yuk Yuk. You are amusing.

@willie59 and really anyone that has tried to take a hydraulic cylinder apart to repack it.

So I bought a very used 1986 case 480E constriction king loader backhoe. it ran ok, etc, but over heated very quickly once I started to use it....new radiator and hoses, water pump..... it does not over heat now. Long story short I am slowly fixing it up. I really have no business or need for a backhoe, let alone one that needs so much work, but it was my retirement present to me and I do like to fix things... have used it a few times so I am getting better on it, but not really up to rookie standards yet.

SOO.... it needs hoses, cylinders repacked, seat work, (that is to say a seat, a seat spring D84284 anybody know any specs on that spring case wants 80 bucks plus shipping.) electrical work, etc etc... I am getting there. I have repacked three of the cylinders so far. The bucket cylinder was leaking just sitting there, about a drip every 30 seconds... had a bucket under it for a while.... Well it does not leak anymore! That was my first cylinder I did. Completed the righthand out rigger cylinder Tuesday. It was harder than the bucket cylinder but not as hard as the left hand out rigger cylinder that I did today. And it is because of this experience that I write this today.

So started this job yesterday. First thing I did was snap the small 1/4" pin of the pita OTC 1266 glad nut that I spent big bucks on so I would not have an issue... it sorta worked on the other two cylinders but not on this last one.... So I went and borrowed a big pipe wrench. But before starting I was reading here about 'peening the cylinder". Never heard of this but it sounded like a great idea, and it was! I still needed the pipe wrench and a 7' 'breaker bar" but got the gland nut came off just fine. Thanks willie59!!!!

So here is the rest of the story: SO got the gland nut off and the piston and rod out of the cylinder. Piston nut was a couple hundred thousand foot pounds of torque and loc tight ( I am not sure exactly but damn it was a lot of work to crack that one). So piston came off but could not slip the gland nut off the rod. Other side was same way but I was able to tap it off with a wood block and a hammer... This left side was not so willing to be removed! So I put it all back in the cylinder, tightened up everything and used the machines hydraulics to push the rod through the gland nut to as close to the end of the rod as possible. Took it all out again was about 4 inches or so that I had to use the wood block and hammer to get gland off the rod. Replaced all the seals and then put the gland nut on and had to tap (beat) it back on... use the bolt to pull it on and then to pull the piston on... back in the machine etc..... I was whooped.... but its done and no leaks...

Swing cylinders are next.... not looking forward to those...

So another issue I am going to have to tackle or just live with it is the pins that attach the swing cylinders to the swing tower. They are not the right ones and way undersized... (threaded rod with nuts welded on) not sure if the right sized 1.5" ones will even be big enough... No bushings in the swing tower holes where the pins are, what can be done to tighten this up?

Thx for reading and for any suggestions on the seat spring and the swing tower issue.

Schaeff58

I believe Scrub Puller is the real person Crocodile Dundee was modeled after. "that's not a knife. .....Now this is a knife."

I got no respect for specialists. People able to do the job, run the tractor & fix the tractor I respect! Scrub Puller seems to have dropped out, I hope he lost interest in us. He is a good guy & a wealth of information.

Willie B said:

I believe Scrub Puller is the real person Crocodile Dundee was modeled after. "that's not a knife. .....Now this is a knife."

I got no respect for specialists. People able to do the job, run the tractor & fix the tractor I respect! Scrub Puller seems to have dropped out, I hope he lost interest in us. He is a good guy & a wealth of information.

Click to expand...

One of the Australian members here looked him up not long ago.
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/wanting-to-contact-scrub-puller.84671/