Thanks for the advice. I found the rust-remover gel did the same thing: turned the rust and whatever else into black sludge, that stunk really, really bad.
-
Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!
Help: what kind of corrosion/chemical is this???
- Thread starter clutzer
- Start date
DMiller
Senior Member
That is the reaction taking place, Corrosion vs antagonist. As to Lift arms, took the arms off a Allis 7G loader with a another one(Similar in size to a 951 Cat), weight as calculated was near to three ton so I doubt your machine arms would be that heavy. Set that assembly on a trailer load of scrap with a farm tractor.
John C.
Senior Member
Why would you tear down a working machine for some rust. Just continue on with the cleaning and preserving what you can get to and then put it to work. There is nothing you can do about the damage that has already gone too far except fix as fail.
I agree with that sentiment. In the near term, I mainly want to stop the rust on the hydraulic lines and fittings--and get the remaining fertilizer residue out from inside the machine. In the long term, if I ever muster up the willpower and desire I'll pull out the engine and hydraulics and fully refinish the interior. I'm not really bound by any work schedule with this thing, so I'm entertaining various levels of repair/restoration/saving at the moment.
jacobd
Well-Known Member
Once you wash the insides out the rust process will halt. After that I wouldn't worry about the rust that's already there. It's ugly but it won't hurt anything, you'll hardly ever see it, and removing it would take a huge amount of time and money. I'd just wash it out *very* thoroughly and enjoy it.
Round little white balls could be urea, ammonium nitrate, calcium chloride, or probably a few other kinds of fertilizer or salt. I think you're on the right track, pressure wash, but not near electrical connectors, rinse those with water gently and for hours, spray your electrical connectors with silicone spray, phosphoric acid of some sort (your rust remover spray, ospho etc.), maybe oil up the rusted areas, maybe zinc rich primer then oil, maybe and undercoating like boeshield or fluid film. DON'T put a thick paint over any existing rust, there will still be traces of salt or fertilizer to keep the rust going under the paint.
Mildly acidic water is supposed to be better for rinsing salt residue off, like typical rainwater.
Mildly acidic water is supposed to be better for rinsing salt residue off, like typical rainwater.
You are saying the lift arms you removed weighed 6000lbs?!? Damn that's heavy.
Thanks for the advice, it really gets you to thinking... It seems more practical to simply apply some type of oil or anti-rust protectant (Amsoil Metal Protector) that is easy to apply, and just do it periodically--like every 1000hr service or annually.
Here is an up close look at the "sick" inside my poor skid steer.
Before you comment about the bondo, I'm using this as an opportunity to practice some body work on something that "doesn't really matter". I want to see how well, and how robust I can repair corrosion.
Before you comment about the bondo, I'm using this as an opportunity to practice some body work on something that "doesn't really matter". I want to see how well, and how robust I can repair corrosion.
Attachments
DMiller
Senior Member
To be honest that looks like Phosphate I hauled a few years ago, nasty stuff.
Yeah it's gross -- it has a certain smell to it. It's nice to get it out of the tub and have the thing airing out. It seems like it has a fairly slow activation time when in contact with moisture so at least I have a bit of working time when pressure washing the inside of the tub. I'm trying to be very careful and not hit electrical connectors, and when I do, compressed air them out right away. Crossing fingers... will keep this thread posted.
Looks like nitrogen fertilizer "Prills". Not only used in fertilizer mix, but also used with diesel oil as a blasting agent. Nitrogen would explain the rust you are finding. Get that stuff pressure washed off as soon as possible, then use a rust convertor, as mentioned, before repainting.
apetad
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2012
- Messages
- 385
- Location
- Leander, Texas
- Occupation
- Compact Construction Equipment Sales
D10's have access to the components!!!!
apetad
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2012
- Messages
- 385
- Location
- Leander, Texas
- Occupation
- Compact Construction Equipment Sales
If it's fertilizer there are none of the original connections left... my bet, those places wire everything directfertilizer corrosion is like cancer and if that machine was used in fertilizer or other corrosive environment, be prepared for any and all electrical problems.
mitch504
Senior Member
Yep, WE damn sure do. A connector in the dumpster won't stop a machine over and over!