JD 310SG battery leaking current

Electronic devices (with capacitors and/or semiconductors) will have an initial inrush current when they are energized. That would produce the bright light followed by a dim light as your test light is providing the conductivity to engergize. This is why I previously asked if your machine had a ECU, had a radio, or other things. Most likely something electronic (not electrical like a light, or motor) is the culprit unless someone has done some rewiring of the ign/acc circuits. Can you please advise what options and equipment is on your machine?

A test light does not take much current to be bright. To glow, would be much less. Typically a glow level would not be enough to discharge a battery over night though. Maybe in several weeks, but not in a day. You need to measure with a meter to really see what type of current is flowing here.

Forgive me for asking this question, I mean no offense, I simply need to ask as many people make a mistake when trying to use a DVM to measure current. Does your meter require you to move the positive test lead to a different socket on the meter to measure current? If you are simply changing the selection to current, and the test leads are not in proper position on the meter to read current, you will get 0.00
Also is the meter set to measure AC current or DC current? If AC, you will also get 0.00 as there can only be DC current if the engine is off unless you have some odd accessory. Lastly, DVMs have separate fuses for current reading, does your meter have a good fuse?

When you pulled the wire from the starter solenoid, was that the small control wire or the heavy power cable? If small wire, there is logical explanation for your observation, but first things first.

A picture of the cylindrical item would help identify it.

No offense taken. Egos are best checked at the door in my line of work, and it applies here. It's a Greenlee DM-20. Only measures DC current and the leads are fixed in position. It only goes up to 200mA, but I don't know if that's a problem or not. I don't know of any accessories on the machine - no radio or anything like that. A previous poster said it has an ECU. Haven't been able to look for it yet. I'm curious where they got that info. Haven't had much luck finding a site that lists the options on the machine.

Mg2361 is a very good Deere technician, he has access to look up Deere serial numbers and their factory configurations, so he was able to determine if your machine has an ECU.

Most ECUs will have 2-3 slide lock connectors on them. The suggestion in line with what mg2361 stated, is to remove those connectors to isolate the ECU and see the current draw ceases. It would be best to disconnect the positive lead of the battery first before disconnecting the ECU. (similarly, when reinstalling, connect the ECU, then connect the battery)

ECUs have always-active power to them, as well as key switched power. So an ECU can, and will, draw power even with the key switched off. Typically 10ma or less at key off which would take many months to drain a charged battery, but if the ECU is not shutting down properly, then it would drain the battery quickly. Your stop light might tie into this, if the ECU is not shutting down.

If your machine has other electronic equipment on it, particularly things like an after-market radio and/or sound system added, those could also be suspect for current draw after keyoff. This is why I ask about accessories added to the vehicle.

200ma meter capacity is questionable given your battery is discharging very quickly. Depending on the size of the test lamp, the glowing lamp might be drawing above 200ma. It would be worth your time to take the screws out of the back of your multi meter, remove the fuse, and check it for continuity. If open circuit, the fuse is blown and needs replaced before the meter can read current.

It would be valuable clue to know exactly how much current is flowing when your test light is glowing.

Great explanation (both posts) fpgm04!

Armymutt, we really would like to see a meter reading (Amps) rather than a light.

Armymutt said:

There is another device that has wires bolted to it. It's cylindrical and not a push-in type. Lots of wires going to it.

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That is the accessory relay.


ECU Location, left side of the engine.

I would be looking into that starter, if unplugging the starter had that significant change in the test light. Simple backyard test. Hook everything back up, leave starter disconnected. Let it sit for the necessary amount of days that would cause the battery to die. On that day go back out hook starter up and see if it will start. If it starts, i'd lean towards the starter. Or if you have a DVOM with the starter unhooked, is there less than 25ma drawing from the battery? Draws get the best of many technicians, but are in fact easy to fix.

My battery project is on hold for the moment. I managed to break a hydraulic fitting on the 4 in 1 bucket and fluid is spraying everywhere. Pine tree went the wrong direction. Got one on order, so hopefully it will be here by the weekend. Don't really want to lift the loader right now. I'll get back to you once I run all the tests mentioned. I also now have the test and repair manuals, so I have a better idea of the electrical circuit. Thanks for the help so far. More later!

Armymutt said:

My battery project is on hold for the moment. I managed to break a hydraulic fitting on the 4 in 1 bucket and fluid is spraying everywhere. Pine tree went the wrong direction. Got one on order, so hopefully it will be here by the weekend. Don't really want to lift the loader right now. I'll get back to you once I run all the tests mentioned. I also now have the test and repair manuals, so I have a better idea of the electrical circuit. Thanks for the help so far. More later!

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Where's the pictures!!!! we love to see heavy equipment carnage!!!!

It's not that impressive, other than the bent 1 3/4" steel bar that my flip over forks are mounted on. That's going to require a saw or grinder to remove and be expensive to replace.

Got my master disconnect kit today. The instructions aren't very helpful. Where does this thing go? I have 2 metal plates as shown in the picture.

Uh oh, I assume the suggestion was in reference to an electrical switch to turn off total tractor. Maybe like this.

That part I figured out. It's the mounting of the switch that's the question.

What all did your kit come with?? did it come with any lengths of cable? that will kinda tell you how far away from the battery it goes. The cadmium plated piece is of course where the switch goes into the painted piece may be a replacement piece for one reason or another that may... relocate something out of the way or give better access for the switch or just adds holes for something to mount onto.... do you have a parts book for the machine that might show a pic or what instructions came with the kit?

Came with a battery cable that is about 18-24" long, a cable to run to the grounding stud that is about a foot long. I have the parts book, but it just shows the parts for the kit without any sort of reference to where it goes on the machine.

Mine which I assume is OE is mounted next to the engine on the frame rail under the hood on the LH side.

I will try to get a picture tomorrow if I don't forget.

I got some assistance and instruction from a helpful guy. I haven't figured out what the yellow plate is for - called a deflector plate. I still need to figure out how to cut the excess battery cable off, but it works! I also got a new elbow in. I'll never order from Greenpartstore.com again. Ordered over a week ago and it still hasn't shipped. Local tractor dealer had it in 16 hours after I called them.