Junkyard
Senior Member
I always liked those white putty cat engines.
I do as well. Had more than one ask me why the 7FB in my 359 had been painted the wrong color!
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3406A liners
- Thread starter 92U 3406
- Start date
I do as well. Had more than one ask me why the 7FB in my 359 had been painted the wrong color!
Junkyard
Senior Member
Looks great! It sure does feel good when one is all assembled and looks good. Quite a sense of accomplishment. Most of my assembly work is in the field, more like a NASCAR pitstop.
92U 3406
Senior Member
I just figured everyone had a muscle car so why not build a W900 from the ground up? Something a little more unique than average.
just one further note- on initial dry fit before liner seal installation, if a protrusion reading is out of spec, rotate the liner and take protrusion readings again around the clamped liner. I always check each liner at 4 locations to make sure they are seated squarely down and then mark the top of the flange with a sharpie so it can be reinstalled in the same orientation.
Mark250
Senior Member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2015
- Messages
- 1,243
- Location
- victoria,Australia
- Occupation
- heavy equipment technician
Probably stating the obvious but make sure the o rings are not twisted and I always change the oil cooling nozzles
Truck Shop
Senior Member
This stuff is slick as can be, will not deteriorate rubber or O-rings. Many a Peterbilt encapsulated windshield has been broken on installation using soap on the gasket trying to rope it into cab opening.
Smear the cab and gasket with Sil Glyde and it will rope right into place. On Cat liners I sear it in the lower seals and lower bore, set liner/piston pack into place in block and using a large 6"x6" piece
of 1" thick UHMW on top of liner I can lightly tap the liner with ease right down to where it bottoms out flange to block. I quit using soap on lower seals a long time ago. One of the last C-15's I did
ran 945,000 miles, it just got done again.
Smear the cab and gasket with Sil Glyde and it will rope right into place. On Cat liners I sear it in the lower seals and lower bore, set liner/piston pack into place in block and using a large 6"x6" piece
of 1" thick UHMW on top of liner I can lightly tap the liner with ease right down to where it bottoms out flange to block. I quit using soap on lower seals a long time ago. One of the last C-15's I did
ran 945,000 miles, it just got done again.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
Plus I always mic the liner flanges first in four spots, weather it's a Cat, Detroit or Cummins. Then I check the deck surface using using a deck bar/straight edge across the block on Cat, across the counter bore
if it is a Cummins or Series 60. Then measure the counter bore depths with a depth mic in four places. If it's a Cat I mic the intermediate plate and the steel shim. Set liner in place locked, lock block plate in place
measure liner height and add the shim thickness. And every time it comes up the same by locking everything in place or doing the math without locking inplace. On Series 60 your allowed from .0005 below deck
to .003 above max. I try for .002 on Series 60, Cummins .004-.005 max. The problems occur when liner shims are added and dull tooling is used with a Kent Moore or Monaco tool. That can throw it off, when it
comes to cutting for shims or repair sleeves the job is only as good as the guy doing it. IMHO.
if it is a Cummins or Series 60. Then measure the counter bore depths with a depth mic in four places. If it's a Cat I mic the intermediate plate and the steel shim. Set liner in place locked, lock block plate in place
measure liner height and add the shim thickness. And every time it comes up the same by locking everything in place or doing the math without locking inplace. On Series 60 your allowed from .0005 below deck
to .003 above max. I try for .002 on Series 60, Cummins .004-.005 max. The problems occur when liner shims are added and dull tooling is used with a Kent Moore or Monaco tool. That can throw it off, when it
comes to cutting for shims or repair sleeves the job is only as good as the guy doing it. IMHO.
92U 3406
Senior Member
I had the block decked and the liner bores sleeved. Line bore was good. Block was in great shape. No cracks. Mains have not been bored over. No crank journals are ground under either. All mains plastigauged in at 5 to 6 thou. Endplay on the crank was in spec too.
RZucker
Senior Member
Not trying to scare you, but a freshly machined block really requires the utmost care checking liner measurements. Had a B model done about 15 years ago that had a lower liner bore sleeve just slightly off center. Cost me a bunch of money smoothing things over with the customer when the liner cracked a week later. Protrusion check would have caught it. But I didn't check it myself... Hey reworked everything should be good to go, right? Mistakes happen.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
Did you have B&G machine Seattle do the block work? If so you got the best. Going back to one of my reply's in another thread-never trust or just assemble with out checking the machine work
performed. Always good to get out the micrometers and check the work. It doesn't take that much time.
performed. Always good to get out the micrometers and check the work. It doesn't take that much time.
92U 3406
Senior Member
I had the block done by an outfit around here that's been in the business for decades. They do a lot of machining work for the dealers in the area. Everything looked pretty good when I checked it over myself.
RZucker
Senior Member
No mine was done elsewhere, they bent over backwards to make it right so we still do business. Apparently the guy that did the bore job screwed up several others and went to work in the fast food field.
Ronsii
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2011
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- 3,464
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- Western Washington
- Occupation
- s/e Heavy equipment operator
I think I know where he is now.... The boss brought us burgers the other day from mcdonalds and my double cheese burger was jammed in the box crooked
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Half the time they have trouble centering the burger in the bun and looks like they tried dropping the cheese from 20' above. More cheese hanging out the side than on the burger.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
I was talking about 92U's block RZ, I had Cat Pasco come to the shop and cut six for liner shims around 2004. The surface was so rough after cutting and was lower to the center than the inside edge.
We went round and round on that one before it got straightened out. The Kent Moore tooling they were using was shot.
We went round and round on that one before it got straightened out. The Kent Moore tooling they were using was shot.
92U 3406
Senior Member
And they demanded a $15/hr minimum wage lol.
GregsHD
Senior Member
Had a dozen 71 series Detroit rods sent out to a well known machine shop in Nanaimo years ago, got them back all nice and reworked, 3 were visibly bent!
The company did source and supply replacements free of charge in short order and we continued to do business after, hopefully whoever did the work learned from the experience to pay more attention!
The company did source and supply replacements free of charge in short order and we continued to do business after, hopefully whoever did the work learned from the experience to pay more attention!
Birken Vogt
Charter Member
Did they bend them somehow or just fail to catch that they were already bent?
GregsHD
Senior Member
Somehow failed to catch that they were bent, they weren't horrible, but still obvious.
I never got to lay eyes on them until they came back, it was one of those "I get the (dis)pleasure of finishing" jobs..
Even on a good day the Kent Moore tooling requires skill to use and on a bad day it's garbage, however It does have its uses when you're on an end cylinder with something like a timing cover in the way.
My goto tool is the Mira BB. Once you've used it there's no going back.
http://www.miratool.ch/MIRA-BB-86-Counterbore-Units-for-recutting-diesel-sleeve-counterbores.php