Tony Wells
Senior Member
Greetings folks!
I have a major pain and a minor mystery on my hands. Working on a start/run/stop issue on this machine. Cat engine. Master switch on, key to crank and everything comes to life. And stays......You can turn the key back to off and remove it, still grind all you want. The only way to shut the thing down is to use the Master switch, or run around to the other side of the machine and hit the E-Stop.
Now, I have to try and explain that it has been hacked. This machine originally had a cab and grapple boom, but that has been removed. So there are a number of chopped wires. Also removed is the 5 second starter delay (PN 39250-294), and the associated slave solenoid (PN 29315-410). A lot of wiring has been modified and there are lots of dangling non-connected wires hanging out of snakeskin looms. Since it starts and runs, all electrical gauges seem accurate and functional, someone went to a lot of trouble to bypass or chop out some wiring and modules. All well and good (not really), but the customer oddly enough wants to operate it with the key. Naturally, many of the wire colors and wire gauges are no match for the schematic.
Where I am stuck is what connection is present at the key switch (presumably) that shouldn't be, or just might be on the wrong terminal so that it stays hot with the key off. I have a new key switch, but haven't put it on yet. (Grrr and extra Grrrr.....I'll not be buying any more from my Morbark distributor unless I am absolutely dying. They got gall to mark up a 50 buck switch to $166.) I've stared at it a while, but keep getting drawn off this repair to guide some guys working on the mill. Hard to concentrate on wiring when I'm explaining taper-locking shaft adapters and how to get them to pop loose so the mill can be re-centered and not rub on the end plates. This machine was fed an indigestible object about a year or so ago, and cracked one of the cast bearing housings, and actually distorted, bent, and broke a ton of stuff around the tub and mill. But I digress. Here is a link to the schematic for anyone who cares to take a look and see where I can break into the fuel solenoid circuit (best way I can think of) and shut this beast down with the key. I know the start delay is a safety feature, and will be addressed, but only after the shutdown problem is resolved. Seems like it ought to be simple, but I can't see it yet.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nKQO8MREFYwLXNbFiux9FgOCX7wwSrLK
That should be a shared link on my Google Drive. Feel free to grab a copy for yourself even if you just want it for your files. Note it is NOT the 1300B. Just a plain 1300. I wouldn't count on everything matching that schematic.
I got a feeling this is something simple, staring back at me, but it's been raining off and on, so I am constantly getting interrupted and just can't see it. Now I am basing my take on this as if the fuel solenoid is normally shut down, and has to see the 24 volts to pass fuel. Please correct me if I am mistaken.
Many thanks for any help. For some of you I imagine it's elementary. I think it ought to be to me, but I'm having a mental block. Could be the meds I'm on due to my ripped up discs (3 of them). No heavy lifting for me, but figure I should be able to twist a few wires together.
Tony Wells
I have a major pain and a minor mystery on my hands. Working on a start/run/stop issue on this machine. Cat engine. Master switch on, key to crank and everything comes to life. And stays......You can turn the key back to off and remove it, still grind all you want. The only way to shut the thing down is to use the Master switch, or run around to the other side of the machine and hit the E-Stop.
Now, I have to try and explain that it has been hacked. This machine originally had a cab and grapple boom, but that has been removed. So there are a number of chopped wires. Also removed is the 5 second starter delay (PN 39250-294), and the associated slave solenoid (PN 29315-410). A lot of wiring has been modified and there are lots of dangling non-connected wires hanging out of snakeskin looms. Since it starts and runs, all electrical gauges seem accurate and functional, someone went to a lot of trouble to bypass or chop out some wiring and modules. All well and good (not really), but the customer oddly enough wants to operate it with the key. Naturally, many of the wire colors and wire gauges are no match for the schematic.
Where I am stuck is what connection is present at the key switch (presumably) that shouldn't be, or just might be on the wrong terminal so that it stays hot with the key off. I have a new key switch, but haven't put it on yet. (Grrr and extra Grrrr.....I'll not be buying any more from my Morbark distributor unless I am absolutely dying. They got gall to mark up a 50 buck switch to $166.) I've stared at it a while, but keep getting drawn off this repair to guide some guys working on the mill. Hard to concentrate on wiring when I'm explaining taper-locking shaft adapters and how to get them to pop loose so the mill can be re-centered and not rub on the end plates. This machine was fed an indigestible object about a year or so ago, and cracked one of the cast bearing housings, and actually distorted, bent, and broke a ton of stuff around the tub and mill. But I digress. Here is a link to the schematic for anyone who cares to take a look and see where I can break into the fuel solenoid circuit (best way I can think of) and shut this beast down with the key. I know the start delay is a safety feature, and will be addressed, but only after the shutdown problem is resolved. Seems like it ought to be simple, but I can't see it yet.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nKQO8MREFYwLXNbFiux9FgOCX7wwSrLK
That should be a shared link on my Google Drive. Feel free to grab a copy for yourself even if you just want it for your files. Note it is NOT the 1300B. Just a plain 1300. I wouldn't count on everything matching that schematic.
I got a feeling this is something simple, staring back at me, but it's been raining off and on, so I am constantly getting interrupted and just can't see it. Now I am basing my take on this as if the fuel solenoid is normally shut down, and has to see the 24 volts to pass fuel. Please correct me if I am mistaken.
Many thanks for any help. For some of you I imagine it's elementary. I think it ought to be to me, but I'm having a mental block. Could be the meds I'm on due to my ripped up discs (3 of them). No heavy lifting for me, but figure I should be able to twist a few wires together.
Tony Wells