Takeuchi TB135 Stalls Engine

I wasn't referencing that inlet...and, that one doesn't have a screen.
I referenced the inlet elbows at the water separator. I have had them plugged 90%. Also had the tank outlet on my TL150s plugged.

I circled where the separator inlet elbow is that gets plugged. Not only has it gotten plugged on all 8 of my Takeuchis (TL150, TB180FR, TB53FR, & TB035), it also got plugged in my SVL75 & SVL75-2.
On mine, it has always been debris installed during fueling (after dragging the fuel nozzle through the mud, rock, and straw), and elimination of the filler neck strainer.

Had a load check valve stuck on the boom circuit on my TB53FR. It made the hydraulics load early and the machine sluggish, but, exhaust smoke darkened a lot before the engine would begin to stall (drop significant rpm).

What I'm getting at is, I'd try fuel from a can right into the electric pump inlet to rule out a supply issue, unless the engine labors to stall as opposed to just petering out.

Yeah nothing inside the bolt either.

I really haven't done anything with the hydraulics yet other than pulling the filter to check and topping off the hydraulic tank fluid. Not sure what all to check other than some pressures, i do have a 5K PSI gauge so i can start checking them i probably just need some adapter fittings.

heymccall i cleaned the separator out when i drained the tank, i also blew air through all the lines, including the elbows on the separator. So i think im good from the tank to the engine. The pressure test did show i was maintaining 2-3 PSI right before the FI pump even when the engine stalls out.

When im in 2nd speed if i try to move one track at a time it would usually not be able to move that track. It wouldn't stall the engine either, it just wouldn't move the track. While moving if i switched to a single track it would keep moving fine. It would mostly just stall if i was in high gear going straight, up a slight grade, or even in low gear up a steeper grade.

I still think it is hydraulic...does it stall when you max out stick and boom or is it just the tracks

Hi, it sounds to me to be more of a hydraulic issue, the motor is being over run by the pump, need model of the pump, but it should have a pc regular, there should be a adjusting screw 5 Allen key with a counter nut 10 0r 13 wrench. I would carefully turn it out 1/8 at a time, after each adjust, hydraulics testing on full stroke.

Well i didn't do much with it yesterday since it was so cold outside, but i did confirm that the fitting on the fuel pump where the return line connects does have a check valve in it and it is functional.

It will bring the engine down a little if i max out curl, but wont really stall it, it mostly stalls when tracking. So im not ruling out a hydraulic issue, i just dont know how to troubleshoot that as well.

Are you talking about adjusting a relief valve? I don't have the pump model but i can get it.

What would be the first things to check hydraulically to troubleshoot?

Did a little messing around with it tonight, i got my throttle linkage all put back together so with the warmer weather this weekend i should be able to get it out and test it out a little more. Its been tough trying to test anything with the linkage all apart and the throttle lever not working.

One thing that i discovered while messing with the joysticks. The Aux buttons were missing from my joystick so i got a replacement, three wires, two hot one ground, with the key on i touch one hot to the ground and the solenoid clicks. Same with the other hot to ground, solenoid clicks so i figured they were working i just need to wire up the new joystick buttons. I tried this again today with the engine running and when i touch them together the engine dies immediately. I would have assumed that with the aux ports plugged if the solenoid is activated it should just activate a relief valve, but it seems as though something isnt right there.

Well it is a gear pump that runs aux...so dead head will kill most small machines...even my kx080 kubota will really grunt if i hit buttons

Ok well thats good to know that at least thats not another problem so far.

If it stalls when you bottom out a cylinder I would say your pump is not de-stroking

How would i test it to determine if it is destroking correctly?

The only way I know is with a flow meter

So ive been using this excavator a little here and there, but never really found a solution to my problem. It has continued to be sluggish and would stall the engine occasionally and would barely be able to track in high range especially up hill, but it seemed inconsistent, sometimes it would track nice with power, other times it would seem sluggish.

I ended up blowing a hydraulic hose to the dipper arm, and with the engine running the blown hose was spurting fluid continuously even when not using that function, it would spray more if i used that function. That didnt seem right to me as im usred to my tractor or dozer that if a line blows it will leak whats left in it but if you dont use that function it doesnt really continue to flow out. I put a new line on and didnt think too much of it.

Then my brother was using it the other day and he said he hit one of the aux buttons and one of the aux lines out on the boom blew. Like the other one he said it kept spraying all the time as if it was under partial pressure all the time. He was able to partially plug it off to drive it back to his house, but said that while it was leaking as he was driving it back it tracked with more power and was able to track in high range with no problems.

For one thing this doesn't sounds normal that any function would be under some partial pressure enough to spray fluid when not in use, and it sounds like that pressure in the system is acting as a parasitic power loss robbing power from the system. With the leak its as if the parasitic loss was gone and it got power back.

Not sure exactly where to look but sounds like that kind of confirms that it is not a problem with the engine, hydraulic pump, or final drives, but something like an internal leak somewhere in the hydraulic system.

Anyways, anyone seen anything like this before and know where to start to diagnose something like that?

well I said it instantly.....and everyone thought I was nuts...….your pumps are not destroking all the way.

Unless a hose is plugged off, or the circuit is intact, there will be oil loss of consequence on any open circuit, regardless of whether that circuit is activated or not, when the machine is running.
I carry a full selection of steel caps and plugs so that not only can I seal a system while repairing/ replacing a component, but I can disable a leaking circuit and walk the machine out to a better location without spewing oil everywhere.

As for blowing a hose, most likely that hose was already compromised, as the hoses are rated higher than the pump maximum output pressure.
Or, someone installed a lower rated hose in its previous life.

I know blowing the hose was not consequence of the pressure in the line, just an old hose on an old machine.

Ron, how do you know it is the pump not destroking, and what would i do to check that or fix?

Been a while but i have an update to this post. I ended up rebuilding my engine, new block, rebuilt head etc. When i took it apart it had some damage to one piston around the rings and had two spun main bearings. So it definitely needed some attention. I just made another post about some issues I'm still having with the engine starting and running.

But as for the power issues and bogging the engine down, it was still doing this with the rebuilt engine, i turned the fuel adjustment screw out about a turn and a half and it no longer bogs the engine down at all while operating the machine. It tracks well, I can hold three function of the boom at once and it doesn't bog down, which would have stalled it before if held for too long. So i believe that issue is fixed and im confident that it was an engine power issue and not a hydraulic issue. I believe if i had done that before the rebuild it probably would have fixed it as well although the engine still needed work.

mine tb135 is doing the exact same thing. Where is the fuel adjustment screw located

Me too! Would love to know where the adjustment screw is located.

My TB135 just started doing this last week. First time it has gotten cold (below freezing) and it did it for the first 5 mins it was running. It only bogged down while I was tracking (boom, stick, thumb and blade didn’t put a noticeable load on the engine).

After it warmed up a bit the noticeable bogging of the engine went away while it was tracking and it seemed to be fine. I serviced all filters and fluids in August of this year (fuel, hydraulic, oil and finals - new fluid and filters for all) and only have about 6 hours on it since then and it was running like a champ.