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Please Help Cat D8L Transmission Overheating

stabber

Active Member
Joined
May 3, 2009
Messages
41
Location
Oklahoma City OK
Occupation
Engineer
Please help me diagnose the root cause of my CAT D8L transmission overheating issue:

Equipment Specs:
Caterpillar D8L SN:53Y02410

Backstory:
With all the rain we had in OK, most of my lower most productive farmland was flooded and debris covered. In a last ditch effort to "save" the ranch I decided to splurge and get the best condition D8 size dozer I could afford and give it one last go. I did a tremendous amount of research and determined the best option for us would be a low hour CAT D8L (all mechanical, great reputation etc). I found a machine about 8 hours from me with about 3k hours on a certified engine, torque converter and transmission (about 12,400 frame hours). After speaking with the owner and his mechanic I felt comfortable that it was a good machine and bought it.
I literally cried as I drove the dozer off the truck and watched the transmission temperature creep up and after walking the dozer about 1/4 mile it was a hair from throwing on the powershift transmission light. I parked the dozer and so far have:

1. Power washed out the radiator external (removed a lot of debris toward the base)
a. Tested the radiator fluid (was great), but I flushed it and used 3 gallons of the CAT flushing fluid.
b. Tested the machine and engine stays pretty cool, but transmission temp creeps up to an unsafe level in about 1/2 hour with 85 degree ambient temperature
2. Changed transmission fluid all filters and screens (also had tested)
a. Filters and screens did not have any debris
b. oil test: Silicon 18.01 PPM, Tin 0 ppm, Silver 0 PPM, Aluminum 2.06 PPM, Chromium 0.33 PPM, Lead 88.9 PPM, Copper 178.22 PPM, Nickel 0.111 PPM, Iron 252.51 PPM (Maybe pump issue???)
3. Cleaned all break linkages and parked on hill (seems to roll ok in neutral) (forward and reverse)
4. Things that I have bought
a. All books (parts manual, maintenance, operator)
5. I spoke with former owner and mechanic - I suspect they knew something was up, but obviously swore that it worked great when it left (but they used it very little)
6. I bought a set of pressure gauges, but have yet to connect up and pressure test it
7. Dozer has a ton of power and transmission shifts in all gears and drives true, clutches and breaks work as per specifications

I really don't have that much time or money, I tried to have CAT come out, but its not close to the dealer and they are booked up with all the big guys .... I work the ranch mostly on weekends with my 6 and 8 year old boys. I do have access to a rebuilt transmission pump and possibly the scavenger pump (I don't know where this is located though?). How hard is it to change out the pump? can I do it myself? The book is a bit lacking in details, is there anything I need to look out for? Do the pumps need to be primed?
 
Last edited:

Nige

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
29,379
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
Do you still have the old transmission filters.? If so cut them open and look in the bottom of the pleats for debris. Lots of how to videos on YouTube.

Before laying tools on it I suggest that it would be a good idea to get a full set of pressure readings from the power train.
Converter Inlet
Converter Outlet (stalled in 3rd speed)
P1, P2.
Trans lube pressure.
If you’re not sure about how to perform any of the tests don’t hesitate to shout out.

Your oil analysis results don’t look very good. Starting from too much silicon (dirt) and only getting worse with the iron, copper, & lead. I’m sure that you have no idea how many operating hours the oil that you drained had, and that doesn’t help much.

I dunno about anyone else but I certainly wouldn’t start swapping parts without some hard test data to justify why I was doing it.
 

stabber

Active Member
Joined
May 3, 2009
Messages
41
Location
Oklahoma City OK
Occupation
Engineer
Thanks for the quick reply Nige!!! I have a pressure test kit at the ranch, I haven't opened it yet, but will do on Friday after work. I do have the book that generally indicates the test points, however, if you have a better procedure or one that makes more sense in my case I would love to have it. It may be a stretch, but in your opinion, what is best case worst case for my situation (or is it just to hard to tell with the data points I have so far)?
 

kshansen

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Mar 11, 2012
Messages
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Location
Central New York, USA
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Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Just so we know if you have the book that shows the test points.

Look at the attached file and see if this is wat you book is showing:
 

Attachments

  • D8L Pressure tap locations.pdf
    457.1 KB · Views: 36

Dave Neubert

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2018
Messages
1,660
Location
Monroe NC
Agree with Nige*check your pressures also might pull the trans cooler the water passages get stopped up you can check it wit a temp gun and see if it is removing the heat
 

stabber

Active Member
Joined
May 3, 2009
Messages
41
Location
Oklahoma City OK
Occupation
Engineer
I do have a heat gun and when the transmission temperature was reading about 190 deg c on the gauge (very hot in my opinion), I noticed a 40 deg F temperature drop across the oil cooler
 

Nige

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Messages
29,379
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
40 degrees temperature drop across the oil side of the power train cooler would appear to be in the ball park.

You've already got a number of people interested. Stick with the plan, work through testing everything logically, and you WILL get to the bottom of what ails the old girl. Brings back memories. I had a D8L S/N 53Y02422 from brand-new on a job I was working back in early 1984. Time flies.......
 

Mobiltech

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Jan 14, 2014
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Sask.
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Self employed Heavy duty mechanic
I do have a heat gun and when the transmission temperature was reading about 190 deg c on the gauge (very hot in my opinion), I noticed a 40 deg F temperature drop across the oil cooler

You say 190 deg c but I think you mean 190 deg f.
190 is not hot for a transmission. It should run warmer than the engine when it’s working.
What is the temp when you say it’s at an unsafe level?
 

turbo8781

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Jan 10, 2010
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133
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OR.
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retired
190 C would be 374 F. I dont think the guage on ours even goes that high ?.
Ours was tripping the warning light about every hour at about 245 F. through testing with a heat gun I determined that it was the cooler. After eyeballing it I decided it would be easier to clean the cooler on the machine without disturbing all of the hoses connected to it.
First thing I did was dig a 3 ft wide trench 4 ft deep the full length of the cat and ramp one end of it up real nice. Then walked the cat right dead center over it so the ramp was comming out under the rippers, Then I swung the front belly pan out of the way (hopefully yours is on hinges), Drained the water out and once it was empty I also removed the plug right next to the drain valve ( this will help wash out the gunk when you flush it later), Then removed the bolts from the cooler mounting bracket and let the drivers side (left side from the operators seat) sag down as far as I could, remove the one water line from the left side bonnet and then the left side bonnet its self from the cooler.
Now the nasty part, Take an 1/8" copper rod and push it through every tube.
when you're done have someone puor buckets of water in the radiator or use a garden hose and flush out the gunk you pushed through with the rod, Then put in the plug ( finger tight ) and close the drain valve and start pouring in the water again and it should start coming out the tube. With the water pouring out the tube take your blow nozzel and force the water back through the tubes. When you've done this thoroughly then open the plug and valve and flush it again.
When you're happy with it put it back together.
If it was plugged as bad as our the difference will be astronomical
KIMG0486.JPG
 

Nige

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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
Most folks don't bother to replace the power train cooler (or the pump for that matter) when a transmission is changed. Fasle economy, both should be changed, especially if the transmission fails in a catastrophic fashion.
TBH I would have just replaced that cooler in the photo above, I wouldn't have even bothered trying to clean it. But whatever works is always good so long as it gets the desired results.
 

kshansen

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Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Most folks don't bother to replace the power train cooler (or the pump for that matter) when a transmission is changed. Fasle economy, both should be changed, especially if the transmission fails in a catastrophic fashion.
TBH I would have just replaced that cooler in the photo above, I wouldn't have even bothered trying to clean it. But whatever works is always good so long as it gets the desired results.
I would not even think of reusing an oil cooler on any system that had failure and would only consider reusing if I had a good history of samples to reference.

At least with pumps you can open up and inspect and measure things like end clearance and back lash on gears assuming there are spec's to go by.
 

rmllarue91

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Apr 16, 2014
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northeast pa
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field technician
Hey guys has anyone had good success getting getting accurate readings on these oil coolers. I've had few non contact guns and don't usually get good results. The best results I have are with radiators and big oil coolers air to oil where there big temperature differentials and inlets and outlets are opposite ends. Hydraulics and power trans not good results I got a termo camera hoping for better results.
 

rmllarue91

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Apr 16, 2014
Messages
701
Location
northeast pa
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field technician
My thoughts on this 8l. It's heating up really fast should make finding it easier.
First install new temp gauge weather one piece or sender and gauge. When changing gauge drain just torque converter if you get a gallon or two most likely scavenge system is working. If it fills 5gallon bucket check for screen in scavenge line.
 

rmllarue91

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Messages
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northeast pa
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If it feels strong. most likely in that short amount of time oil cooler or torque converter over full.
 
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