Tread on new to me 580B Case Backhoe / Repairs / Projects

GlennLever · Oct 9, 2018

This is my second thread on this forum, started with an introduction https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/post-number-one-just-bought-a-580b-case-backhoe.73667/ and now that the backhoe is here thought it was appropriate to start a new thread on repairs I do to the backhoe and projects I use it for.

It was delivered tonight after purchase and some repairs The repairs were long and drawn out. and it took several trips to the dealer ship to get the repairs I wanted done done correctly.

Pictures of its arrival are below.

catskinner 10 · Oct 9, 2018

That's a nice looking old B.
I'm sure you will get it sorted out and be a dependable. machine.
They were tough machines in there day.
Spent many hours on a seat just like yours.
Tom

GlennLever · Oct 9, 2018

catskinner 10 said:
That's a nice looking old B.
I'm sure you will get it sorted out and be a dependable. machine.
They were tough machines in there day.
Spent many hours on a seat just like yours.
Tom

Thanks, hope top get many hours of service out of it.

Welder Dave · Oct 10, 2018

So what did the dealer do for you?

GlennLever · Oct 10, 2018

Welder Dave said:
So what did the dealer do for you?

Not a darn thing.

Rags · Oct 10, 2018

That hoe looks great nice shape. Im waiting for mine to be delivered also 1974 CASE 580B. Its 5 hous away so awaiting good price on an empty hauler coming back with my CASE. Got to look at brakes as they dont work and buddy said have not for a few years who needs brakes if you know what your doing ....lol. Other then that tires are weather cracked all over. was barely used sat in yard and plowed snow 3 to 4 times a year for past 25 years. Old fella had it and its immaculate and as he said always dealer maintained.

GlennLever · Oct 11, 2018

Rags said:
That hoe looks great nice shape. Im waiting for mine to be delivered also 1974 CASE 580B. Its 5 hous away so awaiting good price on an empty hauler coming back with my CASE. Got to look at brakes as they dont work and buddy said have not for a few years who needs brakes if you know what your doing ....lol. Other then that tires are weather cracked all over. was barely used sat in yard and plowed snow 3 to 4 times a year for past 25 years. Old fella had it and its immaculate and as he said always dealer maintained.

Are you on the bike or in the car in your avatar?

That sounds good. Even with new brakes on mine they do not work all that great. with the shuttle **** you reall do not need the brakes, the clutch is tied into the brake pedals so when you push the clutch in in removes the drive to the rear wheels and the the brakes can hole the backhoe on a 15 degree slope. I have been using the gas pedal to control RPM when using the loader, allow the backhoe to cost to a stop where I an going to dump, and shift the shuttle into reverse to move backward, no brakes needed.

Spent most of the day yesterday on it, removed some thick concrete slabs, no problems, other than the after market seat is in a terrible position. I did move it back, but it is to high when using the loader (seat design not the pedestal on the tractor).

Rags · Oct 11, 2018

Im on the bike. 1942 Harley WLC

The brake and clutch shuttle is a unique system and i can see how the old guy could get away with no brakes.

GlennLever · Oct 11, 2018

Rags said:
Im on the bike. 1942 Harley WLC

The brake and clutch shuttle is a unique system and i can see how the old guy could get away with no brakes.

I do not know enough, but think you really do not want to use the clutch/brake that much as you might wear out the clutch?? Maybe someone in the know can comment?

franklin2 · Oct 11, 2018

GlennLever said:
View attachment 187094 View attachment 187095 View attachment 187096 View attachment 187097

Are you on the bike or in the car in your avatar?

That sounds good. Even with new brakes on mine they do not work all that great. with the shuttle **** you reall do not need the brakes, the clutch is tied into the brake pedals so when you push the clutch in in removes the drive to the rear wheels and the the brakes can hole the backhoe on a 15 degree slope. I have been using the gas pedal to control RPM when using the loader, allow the backhoe to cost to a stop where I an going to dump, and shift the shuttle into reverse to move backward, no brakes needed.

Spent most of the day yesterday on it, removed some thick concrete slabs, no problems, other than the after market seat is in a terrible position. I did move it back, but it is to high when using the loader (seat design not the pedestal on the tractor).

Look behind the steering wheel on the dash, lower left side. Mine has a switch there where you can flip it to have drive all the time, or you flip it the other way and it works like yours, it has a electrical switch on the brake pedal arm that activates a solenoid on the shuttle to disengage drive. Mine also had a switch under your feet on the floorboard, it looked like a starter switch, and hitting this switch also will disengage drive.

I got mine working and I hated it, so I never use it. I live on a hill, each time I would carefully pull up to something to dump dirt or whatever, I hit the brakes and it starts drifting backwards down the hill. There was no easing up to something without the drive disengaging and the thing rolling back. Then you panic and let out on the brake and it pops a wheelie.

I drove a John Deere the other day and it had a thumb switch for this feature on one of the levers to the right of the seat. I think that would work better. If you are doing a lot of loading into a dump truck, you could fill the bucket, run over to the truck, hit the brakes and then hit the switch with your thumb and rev the engine to make the loader raise up quicker without it straining against the brakes.

I am not at home right now, and can't think for the life of me what that switch on the dash is labelled. Something like "Drive, Neutral" or something like that.

GlennLever · Oct 11, 2018

franklin2 said:
Look behind the steering wheel on the dash, lower left side. Mine has a switch there where you can flip it to have drive all the time, or you flip it the other way and it works like yours, it has a electrical switch on the brake pedal arm that activates a solenoid on the shuttle to disengage drive. Mine also had a switch under your feet on the floorboard, it looked like a starter switch, and hitting this switch also will disengage drive.

I got mine working and I hated it, so I never use it. I live on a hill, each time I would carefully pull up to something to dump dirt or whatever, I hit the brakes and it starts drifting backwards down the hill. There was no easing up to something without the drive disengaging and the thing rolling back. Then you panic and let out on the brake and it pops a wheelie.

I drove a John Deere the other day and it had a thumb switch for this feature on one of the levers to the right of the seat. I think that would work better. If you are doing a lot of loading into a dump truck, you could fill the bucket, run over to the truck, hit the brakes and then hit the switch with your thumb and rev the engine to make the loader raise up quicker without it straining against the brakes.

I am not at home right now, and can't think for the life of me what that switch on the dash is labelled. Something like "Drive, Neutral" or something like that.

I'll check in the morning, but do not think I have that switch

franklin2 · Oct 11, 2018

I just looked in the 580C manual, and it has that switch in the same position as mine, it is called "neutral" and "drive". Only the power shuttle models had it, I would think yours has something like it somewhere so you can turn it on and off. Of course yours is a B model, so maybe it's different.

GlennLever · Oct 11, 2018

franklin2 said:
I just looked in the 580C manual, and it has that switch in the same position as mine, it is called "neutral" and "drive". Only the power shuttle models had it, I would think yours has something like it somewhere so you can turn it on and off. Of course yours is a B model, so maybe it's different.

I have the manual, I will check.

Today's project. Lots of huge stones.

sawmilleng · Oct 13, 2018

Glenn, if your 580B is similiar to mine (a 1973 model) I think you only have the "clutch" pedal that dumps the oil to the forward/reverse clutch packs and then, as you push the pedal further, starts to apply the brakes. It isn't really a clutch in the sense of a mechanical clutch like you would have in a pickup where you can feather it.

The 580B's have such a slushy torque converter that simply applying the brakes at a low throttle works just fine. If you are trying to stop and lift a bucket load of dirt, like when loading a dump truck, then the "clutch" pedal comes into play--you can brake the machine with the hydraulic clutches disengaged and rev the engine to power the loader hydraulic pump.

One thing to watch for when working the clutch brake: I found out the hard way. My father-in-law was skidding a big power pole chained to the loader bucket, backing the machine up. He was not familiar with the clutch/brake setup and got confused, ended up letting go of the clutch with the engine revs high, and broke a tooth off the big final drive pinion gears when the reverse clutch pack engaged at high rpm. Even 20 years ago, that cost us nearly $900 just for the single replacement part.

Jon.

GlennLever · Oct 13, 2018

sawmilleng said:
Glenn, if your 580B is similiar to mine (a 1973 model) I think you only have the "clutch" pedal that dumps the oil to the forward/reverse clutch packs and then, as you push the pedal further, starts to apply the brakes. It isn't really a clutch in the sense of a mechanical clutch like you would have in a pickup where you can feather it.

The 580B's have such a slushy torque converter that simply applying the brakes at a low throttle works just fine. If you are trying to stop and lift a bucket load of dirt, like when loading a dump truck, then the "clutch" pedal comes into play--you can brake the machine with the hydraulic clutches disengaged and rev the engine to power the loader hydraulic pump.

One thing to watch for when working the clutch brake: I found out the hard way. My father-in-law was skidding a big power pole chained to the loader bucket, backing the machine up. He was not familiar with the clutch/brake setup and got confused, ended up letting go of the clutch with the engine revs high, and broke a tooth off the big final drive pinion gears when the reverse clutch pack engaged at high rpm. Even 20 years ago, that cost us nearly $900 just for the single replacement part.

Jon.

This all makes sense based on the feel of the clutch pedal. There is no slipping like in a mechanical clutch. Thanks.

Tinkerer · Oct 13, 2018

If you don't have an Operators Manual it can be downloaded here ---> http://www.minnparbackhoeparts.com/...E 580 SERIES PARTS MANUALS&SSSFName=CASE 580B
On page 58 is some interesting instructions for lubricating the hydraulic pump splined drive shaft.

GlennLever · Oct 13, 2018

Tinkerer said:
If you don't have an Operators Manual it can be downloaded here ---> http://www.minnparbackhoeparts.com/catalogs5.asp?FName=BACKHOE MANUALS&SFName=CASE (CNH) BACKHOE MANUALS&SSFName=CASE 580 SERIES PARTS MANUALS&SSSFName=CASE 580B
On page 58 is some interesting instructions for lubricating the hydraulic pump splined drive shaft.

I do have the operators manual, but have not had the chance to read it yet. Typical correct?

GlennLever · Oct 14, 2018

Popped a power steering hose this evening. I think I will replace both hoses on the left side. One looks straight forward, the other could be a challenge.

Tinkerer · Oct 14, 2018

GlennLever said:
I do have the operators manual, but have not had the chance to read it yet. Typical correct ?

LOL !

GlennLever · Oct 15, 2018

Power steering lines on the right side had to be replaced (well one, but while I was at it I replaced both) I had to remove the fuel line to get access to the second line which was the line that popped.

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