Sleave or welding for rebuilt forklift

Mink · Dec 23, 2017

Hello. A guys ask me for rebuilt a hole fit on Genie forklift wheel pivot. is a upside hole. Originaly, is a tempered sleeve inside hole housing but the housing is oversized . Have two choices: welding it or boring oversize and put a sleeve. My first choice is boring oversize and put a sleeve The casting is made of cast alloy and if y put a sleeve in cast iron material, i'm afraid shell get crushed, but should the sleeve be hardened or 4340 is enough?
For welding, since the frame is made of cast alloy, is it risky to weld this kind of frame?
Thank's

ETER · Dec 24, 2017

Hey Mink, how much material (thickness) do you have around the bore? How much is the bore oversized from the original I.D. and is it oversized the whole length of the bore, or just the upper / lower areas. Did you take a pic? When you say cast alloy, do you mean cast steel or ductile iron (risky... pre and post heat, filler rod selection, etc.). For reasons of strength I would think that the component you're talking about would be made of ductile iron and sleeving to be the safest repair option? I guess the first thing I would consider is if this this thing breaks, could someone get hurt?
Regards, Bob

Mink · Dec 24, 2017

Mink · Dec 24, 2017

Around .100" on radius for thickness. Original o/d bushing is 2.049" and bore oversize is 2.249" yes is all the hole lenght. For material, is in probably alloy cast iron because when y grind them, spark is very small star and red and its harder to machine than ductile iron. If y weld it, probably use a eutectic 22-33n but is not a hard fill material, softer than the original material, its not good. If y use a hardned rod, its hard to machine especially since it is a cantilever assembly. For all these reason, i though i would use a 4340 bushing.But i don't know if this bushing are will be easier to crush. Thanks Eter

ETER · Dec 24, 2017

Mink, looks like that is an upper spindle bearing on the axle housing to the left of the knuckle? And the bushing is still in the upper bore of the knuckle (egg shaped?)...I wouldn't think it is, but is the bush is "file-hard"?, not sure if non heat treated 4340 would stand up? It looks like if you do go with making bushes for the bores, it should be easy enough to heat the bores and install the frozen bushes. I would not have realized that the filler material would be softer than the casting...cracking next to the weld would be my concern. Hopefully RayF will chime in and we both could be"schooled"

regards, Bob

Mink · Dec 24, 2017

Eter, this is actually the top hole and the bushing is no longer in the housing, the new is next to the hole. The bushing is file-hard. I was planning to harden them but can they break because they are thin? Yes , no problem for enter bushing in holes. I agree for Ray. F. !!! Thanks!!!

RayF · Dec 25, 2017

If you have the metal left I would bore it till it cleaned up and machine a new bearing out of 4140. Make it 10 thou bigger.Heat red and oil quench it. Final machine with ceramic inserts. Welding the bore would be a last resort in cast parent metal but if you had to use a pure nickel consumable.

Mink · Dec 25, 2017

Thank you Ray. Do you think a 4340 its ok or its better 4140?

RayF · Dec 25, 2017

You would still need to harden the 4340 but I dont know whether it would go too brittle when quenched. A heat treatment shop could do it properly.

Mink · Dec 25, 2017

Wep. I'm agree whith you. I choose 4140 but is easier to buy 4340 in my area because shop near me have more small piece of stock in inventory, not 4140.

ETER · Dec 25, 2017

Mink, I have been getting stock (4140) shipped from McMaster Carr www.mcmaster.com usually in a couple of days dependent on their suppliers, with a pretty good selection of dimensions (less time machining / waste).
Ray, what kind of speeds do the ceramics need to run at?
Regards, Bob

Mink · Dec 25, 2017

Thank you Eter. Its good idea. Many products at Mc master. I just check for shipping in Canada.

RayF · Dec 25, 2017

[QUOTE="
Ray, what kind of speeds do the ceramics need to run at?
Regards, Bob[/QUOTE]
If I'm cutting hard stuff like bearings I'll run the lathe so the swarf is coming off red or hotter. I use wnmg's and they last much better than the plain Triangular tips.

Mink · Dec 25, 2017

SECO TH1000 is good insert

ETER · Dec 25, 2017

Thanks Mink and Ray...did some reading on SECO's site and on the wnmg cutters and there is no way my old lathes will turn fast enough to cut the harder alloys

I guess for as often as I need to machine the harder stuff, it will have to be "farmed-out" for the time being. At some point I will invest in a more modern lathe (right place, right time thing) and look forward to trying out the ceramics.
Regards, Bob

Mink · Dec 25, 2017

Hi Eter. Do not worry about Seco's recommendations. This insert can work at a lower speed than seco recommends

Mink · Dec 26, 2017

Eter, better insert than TH1000 is WalterValenite vpz215 grade. Is better to with low speed. Carbide depot sell's. Bye!

ETER · Dec 30, 2017

Thanks for the recommendations Mink...did you get into the axle repair yet? And I meant to ask you from looking at the picture of the axle, did you borrow my 12 pound sledge hammer? because I have the same grooves ground into all of my wooden handle "wackers".
Regards, Bob

Mink · Dec 30, 2017

For the axles, the customer wanted me to install the cast iron sleeves that I had manufactured at the very beginning because he did not have time to start again and order other company wear bushing. He know it will take less time.
As for the big hammer, i did not takeit, it belongs to the customer, it is nevertheless a coincidence that you have a similar.

Sleave or welding for rebuilt forklift

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ETER

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