Have a 1997 4700 dump with a DT466 and this one is not an E-model (Mechanical fuel shut off and injectors). Has the 6 plus 1 tranny. and a single speed rear axle. It is a 26K no CDL truck with a 38K tag on it. Last year I could haul 10 ton of rock up a mile long hill and have to down shift to 5th 3/4 of the way up. Put my 10 ton tag trailer behind it with my CAT 416C extenda hoe and I need to hit 4th before the top of the hill. This year I've been running dirt pilled high and I have to hit 4th to finish pulling the same hill. I had about 2K miles on the fuel filter but chauged it out just to see if it would help, it did not help. It does a little chuging every so often under heavy load but not all the time and runs flat out with no load. Sure could use a few more ponies back, any ideas?
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DT466 Where is the power
- Thread starter AllDodge
- Start date
Willis Bushogin
Senior Member
Ive had several tandem dump trucks with 466 engines. They had 8LL transmissions and like 530 gears
I didnt have to pull hills, but they were good engines, unless you were pulling a heavy load. Dont pull out in front of anyone loaded, you may not get across
Now to your problem, if I remember correctly they have a little fuel filter that doesnt look like a filter. Its a canister type. If you have this remove the bowl and check the strainer
I would change the air filter
check the turbo, make sure it doesnt have any loose motion in the vanes/shaft
Do you hear the turbo, spinning up? I would put a boost pressure guage in and check the boost
Do you have good compression (does it burn oil/oil leaks/hard to start in cold wx?
The bad thing is, these engines didnt never have a bunch of power, but when they have a little problem, then its bad
sound crazy, are your brakes dragging?
good luck
I didnt have to pull hills, but they were good engines, unless you were pulling a heavy load. Dont pull out in front of anyone loaded, you may not get across
Now to your problem, if I remember correctly they have a little fuel filter that doesnt look like a filter. Its a canister type. If you have this remove the bowl and check the strainer
I would change the air filter
check the turbo, make sure it doesnt have any loose motion in the vanes/shaft
Do you hear the turbo, spinning up? I would put a boost pressure guage in and check the boost
Do you have good compression (does it burn oil/oil leaks/hard to start in cold wx?
The bad thing is, these engines didnt never have a bunch of power, but when they have a little problem, then its bad
sound crazy, are your brakes dragging?
good luck
Didn't find anything that looked like a canister from the fuel filter to the pump and on the pump it's self.
Replaced the air filter when I bought the truck about 4 years ago and have only put about 6K miles on it since. Pulled the air filter out and it's pretty clean and the monitor hasn't moved.
Turbo looks good, no play but the truck is so noisey I don't hear the turbo. Plan to order a boost gauge today.
Don't know about the compression, but the truck fires right up on the colest mornings or hot afternoons, no smoke, no oil leaks, never have to add oil.
Checked all the wheels and the disc brakes look good and I can turn the wheels by hand.
Hope to know more when the boost gauge is installed.
Thanks
Another area to look is to make sure you aren't losing your boost somewhere, with a loose hose clamp or deteriorated hose. Check your accelerator linkage as well to ensure that the pump is going to full throttle.
mitch504
Senior Member
Maybe I read this wrong, but it looked like you were comparing carrying 10 tons to pulling 11 or 12. It always seems to me that pulling a loaded tag trailer takes more power than carrying a load. I frequently pull my tag trailers w/ my road tractors, it it seems like they take more power than my semi trailers, strange as that seems.
Ordered the boost gauge and so far the vendor indocates they received the order but have not shipped. Will see what the boost is and I think under full load I should read somewhere around 35PSI. If I'm loosing pressure I'll do some more checking.
Using those two pull loads as baselines sort of. Dirt should be a lot less than rock or a tag loaded.
willie59
Administrator
Since it's a mechanical DT466 (not an E), many of those had a Bosch injection pump with an aneroid valve and a wastegate valve on turbo, both activated by turbo boost pressure from intake. I have seen diaphram go bad on wastegate valve pot which causes the aneroid valve to not get pressure to turn up fuel when under load.
thepumpguysc
Senior Member
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My experience tells me they put 2 different pumps on the DT466, 1 robert bosch[germany] in SEVERAL VARIATIONS and 1 American Bosch[now, Ambac] Both are turbo'd..
Turbo pressure on the pump is MAXED or should be..at 17psi at full load..
The MOST COMMON problems are "fuel restrictions".. 1 place thats overlooked is the H20 seperator behind the mud flap on the passenger side, between the tank and the MF..
Another is the "overflow valve" they get weak or the spring breaks and need to be replaced. cuz if you cant keep fuel in the gallery[pump] you cant get fuel to pump the injectors..its just returning to the fuel tank.
and I've seen more than my share of Intake boots cracked at the bend..looks kinda like an "L" going to the aftercooler..but normaly you can hear it whistling..
Turbo pressure on the pump is MAXED or should be..at 17psi at full load..
The MOST COMMON problems are "fuel restrictions".. 1 place thats overlooked is the H20 seperator behind the mud flap on the passenger side, between the tank and the MF..
Another is the "overflow valve" they get weak or the spring breaks and need to be replaced. cuz if you cant keep fuel in the gallery[pump] you cant get fuel to pump the injectors..its just returning to the fuel tank.
and I've seen more than my share of Intake boots cracked at the bend..looks kinda like an "L" going to the aftercooler..but normaly you can hear it whistling..
Installed the boost gauge and she pulls between 20 and 21 full throttle. All linkages appear to be working correctly. It has a little bit of a rough idle so I guess there is a possability an injector may need to be replaced, at least their cheaper then the e-modles. Couldn't find a water seperator behind the mud flap, never saw one and I bought the truck without the left fender extension. Just put another back on it about a month ago.
thepumpguysc
Senior Member
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Sounds like "the right direction"..WAY cheaper than a pump O/H.. couldn't hurt..
thepumpguysc
Senior Member
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IF you can give me some pump#'s..I can help with the power problem..
The pump is a Bosch and here is what's on the tag
908
PES6P110A320LS330
0 402 046 857
66700 01949
thepumpguysc
Senior Member
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OK..On that pump has a "boost compensator"..it can be adjusted to get full fuel quicker, say with a failing turbo..
On top of the BC or "aneroid" as we call it in the biz..is a 8mm allen plug, remove it..sometimes they are stubborn and require a "rap" with a hammer and punch to loosen the copper gasket..inside you will see a "star wheel"..
Using a small screwdriver, turn the wheel clockwise[towards the injection lines] about 5 turns..seeing you can only get about 1/4 turns on each movement of the screwdriver, 5, 1/4 turns isn't much..
Keep track of how many turns you moved the wheel incase you don't like the result[black smoke] and you can turn it back out some..good luck and keep us posted.
On top of the BC or "aneroid" as we call it in the biz..is a 8mm allen plug, remove it..sometimes they are stubborn and require a "rap" with a hammer and punch to loosen the copper gasket..inside you will see a "star wheel"..
Using a small screwdriver, turn the wheel clockwise[towards the injection lines] about 5 turns..seeing you can only get about 1/4 turns on each movement of the screwdriver, 5, 1/4 turns isn't much..
Keep track of how many turns you moved the wheel incase you don't like the result[black smoke] and you can turn it back out some..good luck and keep us posted.