john deere 690 E LC comments

Jd 690

auburn tool said:

can you help with what to look for, turn the key and the lights come on in the dash, but wont light the stater, nothing ,no clicking, batts are full, the the last week, go to start, and there was nothing, try one or two more times, and then it would crank,

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I guess I wrote all this stuff for nothing. I have never seen a 690 with a engine computer. I didnt say that there wasnt one made, but the ones Ive messed with was in the 80"s. Maybe this will help someone, its a fairly commonon thing to do on older machines of any kind

Check out the simple things first
1. when you know it probably not going to start, go to the starter solenoid an just tap on the solenoid, lightly a few times. Get someone to try to start it, while you are looking at the starter, do you see any fire sparking, around the elect connections? Now try to tighten them. Im not sure about this engine, but most all older engines were the same principal.
2. The starter should have a positive (big cable) and a small, maybe #12 wire, if either of these get loose, they will cause these problem. Take a voltmeter and check the voltage on the small wire, with the key turned all the way to start, do this as fast as you can (or you can disconnect this wire, from the starter and check it) If you dont have power to this wire, then start tracing backwards. This could have a relay in the system (but I dont think so)
3. If you dont find voltage at the starter, get to the ignition switch. Try to find out what terminal, is the starter terminal, you might have to use a voltmeter. If you cant find the terminal with a voltmeter, then the switch is bad. Napa may have a switch, that will work, JD parts are pricey. Just make sure the terminals are the same.
4. Now, if all the above, doesnt work (you have voltage on the start terminal on the switch and no voltage at the starter ign wire) these machines had a bad problem with the wiring connections. You will have to look for those plugs ins, most likey a fair size around the turn table area.

Now this is what Ive done to get me out of trouble, run a #12 wire from the start terminal on the starter/ign switch, to the start terminal on the starter. This is the problem, if you have a computer engine (I dont think so) it could cause a problem. Thats the reason, this is the last thing I can think of.
Ive had this problem may times over the years and almost all the time, its the starter solenoid, one time it was a engine to chassis ground.

I have took a screwdriver and jumper the little terminal connection, to the big terminal, next to it (usually) if not, its the other one. If you get the wrong one first, all will happen is, the starter will just spin

Willis Bushogin said:

Check out the simple things first
1. when you know it probably not going to start, go to the starter solenoid an just tap on the solenoid, lightly a few times. Get someone to try to start it, while you are looking at the starter, do you see any fire sparking, around the elect connections? Now try to tighten them. Im not sure about this engine, but most all older engines were the same principal.
2. The starter should have a positive (big cable) and a small, maybe #12 wire, if either of these get loose, they will cause these problem. Take a voltmeter and check the voltage on the small wire, with the key turned all the way to start, do this as fast as you can (or you can disconnect this wire, from the starter and check it) If you dont have power to this wire, then start tracing backwards. This could have a relay in the system (but I dont think so)
3. If you dont find voltage at the starter, get to the ignition switch. Try to find out what terminal, is the starter terminal, you might have to use a voltmeter. If you cant find the terminal with a voltmeter, then the switch is bad. Napa may have a switch, that will work, JD parts are pricey. Just make sure the terminals are the same.
4. Now, if all the above, doesnt work (you have voltage on the start terminal on the switch and no voltage at the starter ign wire) these machines had a bad problem with the wiring connections. You will have to look for those plugs ins, most likey a fair size around the turn table area.

Now this is what Ive done to get me out of trouble, run a #12 wire from the start terminal on the starter/ign switch, to the start terminal on the starter. This is the problem, if you have a computer engine (I dont think so) it could cause a problem. Thats the reason, this is the last thing I can think of.
Ive had this problem may times over the years and almost all the time, its the starter solenoid, one time it was a engine to chassis ground.

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This machine does have a starter relay and also an engine computer.

The start relay is part no AT85258 list price is 47.06 and you should be able to buy it for 20% off that at least.
The relay is know for going bad and if you are not lucky they stick in the start position and will burn the starter up along with the ring gear. I know from experience. Just replace it and be safe.
Like 3Doc said they do have an engine control Module but they just hardly ever go bad.
I have only seen one go bad and that was on a machine that a guy tried to "fix" the wiring himself and burned the whole wiring harness up.
Fix it right and Don't try to Jerry rig something up or you will be buying an engine control Module for the machine along with fixing a lot more wires.

The start relay on the newer machines are different I don't know all what this relay fits.

Linde Pumps

I've personally built several hundred of the Linde double pumps that go on the JD 690 Series and can tell you with confidence that if the wrong person builds this pump you'll have problems!! JD was using several different companies to rebuild these pumps but did not have very good luck. I worked at the Linde plant for 20 plus years I'm telling you this pump is one great piece of hydraulic equipment if it is built by the right person. I do not work for Linde any more but I still build these pumps at my new shop, if anyone is interested in knowing more drop me an email, I rebuild any piston style pumps or motors from any manufacture! By the way Hitachi had nothing to do with any of the JD 690 machines.

Kemazz@zoominternet.net

ZAXIS said:

Dear RKO, Thanks for your comments, I wanted to let you know that I am fully aware of the brand of hydraulic pumps the 690ELC came with since I had to replace mine at only 4000 hours. I used only John Deere hydraulic fluids, filters, motor & gear oil and only John Deere parts installed by authorized John Deere mechanics. This machine was not the only one I heard of that had low hour hydraulic pumps-others went out less hours than mine. I serviced my machine above and beyond the reccomendations and it was still a disappointment to me. MAYBE IT WAS A LEMON!

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Hitachi did have someting to do with the 690ELC. I even have purchased cab parts at the deere only dealer and they came in hitachi packages. And the cab on the 2 machines is exactly the same!

Just Hydraulics

Sorry, I should have been a little more specific, I meant was that they had nothing to do with the hydraulics on the JD 690's, they were almost all Linde products. Sorry about that!

deeredriver said:

Hitachi did have someting to do with the 690ELC. I even have purchased cab parts at the deere only dealer and they came in hitachi packages. And the cab on the 2 machines is exactly the same!

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deere does recommend using engine oil instead of hydraulic oil on the 690e machines, there reason being water seperates out of engine oil better than hyd oil. As far as the Linde pumps go they seem to need replacement after 5000 to 6000 hrs which i believe is several thousand hours before the 200 series deere's-hitachi's most often require replacement.

deeredriver said:

Hitachi did have someting to do with the 690ELC. I even have purchased cab parts at the Deere only dealer and they came in Hitachi packages. And the cab on the 2 machines is exactly the same!

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The John Deere cabs were not built buy either John Deere or Hitachi. John Deere had them built by outside vendor up to the 200 and like machines John Deere machines. Then John Deere and Hitachi joined in the excavator market and then Hitachi under license by John Deere built the replacement parts for the older machines.
The only parts that will interchange with Hitachi on a John Deere 690E are Some Cab parts, The Stick, boom, and the cooling recovery tank. Even then some cab parts are not the same. A FACTORY John Deere 690E cab will not fit on a Hitachi machine with out some reworking. I found out the hard way.
If you ever cut a Hitachi and John Deere stick/boom apart you will see they are not the same inside. John Deere uses one more stiffener plate in both the stick and boom.

coalrulz said:

Deere does recommend using engine oil instead of hydraulic oil on the 690e machines, there reason being water seperates out of engine oil better than hyd oil. As far as the Linde pumps go they seem to need replacement after 5000 to 6000 hrs which i believe is several thousand hours before the 200 series Deere's-hitachi's most often require replacement.

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Failure to use the right oil is why most Linde 690E pumps fail. Use the right oil and they will run 10000 hours plus before they need attention.

Here is a good example of using the wrong oil. He says he is using Hydr. oil, not engine oil as recomended by John Deere and the Hydr. pump failed.

From
ZAXIS
Senior Member
Originally Posted by RKO
I have had three 690E that I put over 13,000 hours on each and never had any problems with them. I still have a 690E that has 7,000 hours and it has been just as good. I have had a couple Hitachi machines and they have been good, but not any better than the Deeres. The "funky off-brand hydraulic pump" as you refer to are Linde Hydr. Pumps. They are used in many industrial applications and great as long as you use the right oil, which is the case with any Hydr. pump. . The 414 John Deere engine is bullet proof and will start no matter how cold it is and easy on fuel. It is one of John Deere's best engines. That was two factors in buying the Deeres over the Hitachi machines, along with not having a Hitachi Dealer at that time.
The John Deere 690E was not built by Hitachi as some people think. Some Parts were built by Hitachi for John Deere, but a lot were built by John Deere, Linde, Red Dot, Central Fab, Rexroth, Positech, Fairfield Manufacturing, Consolidated Technologies and several more. They were assembled/built in John Deere's plants Davenport Ia then in their Augusta Ga. plant.

Dear RKO, Thanks for your comments, I wanted to let you know that I am fully aware of the brand of hydraulic pumps the 690ELC came with since I had to replace mine at only 4000 hours. I used only John Deere hydraulic fluids, filters, motor & gear oil and only John Deere parts installed by authorized John Deere mechanics. This machine was not the only one I heard of that had low hour hydraulic pumps-others went out less hours than mine. I serviced my machine above and beyond the reccomendations and it was still a disappointment to me. MAYBE IT WAS A LEMON!

anyone know how to reverse the controls on the 690 elc?

I grew up on our 690d and later our 690 elc's and 892elc's. The 690 D was a beast but she was reliable and productive, The 690elc's ARE THE FASTEST EXCAVATORS MADE (Imo) I remember when we had our old 690elc digging water main in at a new feedlot and they wanted to try out a komatsu 200series. they put them on the same site and same oporators and the elc dominated a komatsu by hundreds of feet. komatsu rep brought out a mech and when round 2 came about the story was much the same.
at 16 i bought the 690elc that my dad had with 13000hrs on her and sold it with 15 on it with only minor problems no pumps no engines just the u c was tired.
Best excavators ever made to this date and theyre made by DEERE

Deeretime, I know everyone has there own opinion on what is the best, and in my limited opinion I like the Hitachi machine. The '93 690E we owned was babied & gave us nothing but problems. I was not informed about using anything but hydraulic oil in the hydraulic system. Even if the pumps would have lasted for thousands of hours the machine had so many other problems that it makes me think it must have been a lemon. The machine was NEVER as SMOOTH as the Hitachi's I own, nor as productive. Maybe it never was set up as good as some of the aforementioned guys machines, but even if it was, it still was not reliable like my orange iron is. I made the switch to Hitachi in the search to find a dependable machine & I have not regretted it.

Zaxis
I'm glad you like your Hitachi
If you used the wrong oil in the 690E that was a big part of your problem. Everything in the machine is tied together and if the pump is not working right the controller try to compensate and everything else will not work right. Controller will try to change the swash plate and when the pump is not working right the pump/controller will do funny things. If operators does not adjust the machine, I have seen machines beat them selves to death. It was not because the machine was a lemon or a faulty part but because the machine was not matched to the operators capacities. The nice thing about a 690E is, You can set a 690E up to be as smooth as machine as any on the market, or set them up to hog dirt, or set them up to be as fast as you can run it. That is why most people don't like them because they will operate so fast and most people are use to slower machines. I can set up an 690E to be smother than an Hitachi machine. Most were set up to fast for most operators from the factory, as most operators are use to slower machines. I have set up many 690E's for guys that hated them and when I was done they just loved the machine, if the had an open mine. There is no way a 200 Hitachi will out dig a 690E as the 690E has a bigger motor, higher pressure hydr. operating system, bigger hydr. pump, and weights more than a Hitachi.

Zaxis you have a valid point with your 690 and i understand that everyone gets a lemon once and a while, its to bad that the deere left a bad taste in you mouth. I have had hitachi and deere, but i have found that the deere starts much better in cold weather aswell have a little better power on the engine end (not hydraulicly) . My 690elc was choppy but fast! if you were on your game you could make it sing, but if you got a little tired or put a rookie on it it would start and get chopy. I have a lemon of my own, i have a 07 deere 270Dlc and the thing is a toiolet! i never owend a 270 before because i always had 330's,230's'200's and 450's. The 270 is the poorest ballenced machine i have run, it is choppy and i am forever changing filters on it aswell as cylinders drive motors and injectors and alot of other dumb stuff.
Everyone i talk to tho finds the 270's to be the perfect machines but i would rather have my 230clc with 10000hrs on it than the 270 with 3800hrs
you have to realise zaxis that the 690elc compared to a 200 is like comparing apples to oranges because the powertrain and hydraulics arent even compareable. I didnt say it was the smoothest , when we demoed the 690 it ate the hitachi, komatsu and the cat that we had demod on the same job. It didnt beat the hitachi by much it was only 25 or so feet but i do remember that it embarrased the komatsu and they had a mech out twice to turn up the komatsu to full power but back then i was only 7 or so i didnt get alot of seat time in it lol but that nite i did get to back fill with the elc and it was the coolest thing in the world for me

Deeretime, that sucks on the 270 but i have run a 270Clc and liked it for the most part. was balanced and smooth. I just didn't like the fuel consumption. There is no reason for the 6068 engine to be in it. The only thing that went wrong with this was the injection pump in 2500hrs. I liked the 230clc but love the 240. Its hard to beat that machine. As far as deere vs hitachi, its funny how most everyone said "ol a hitachi burns half the fuel as a deere" but then in the end of the day the deere put more pipe in the ground. They are about even in the end. But I guess I'm used to the old deere grunting and doing whatever i wanted to.
As far as the 690E's go, I like them better then the 200lc and clc. Plenty of power, decently quick, and didn't see all that much problem out of them beside some swing motors and electrical. Now the 200DLC is a very good machine. I liked it a whole lot better then the past models. Just felt good.

I appreciate all the comments from you guys, I respect & enjoy reading your opinions & thoughts on these machines. When I bought my first Hitachi back in '99, I demoed a case 9030B, Komatsu 200LC & the Hitachi 200LC-V on a sewer project I was working on. The Hitachi won hands down. I had demoed a John Deere 200LC prior to that, but still had a bad taste in my mouth with my unreliable 690E. In my opinion the Hitachi gives us the best combination of value & dependability for our dollar.

hitachi and deere

Well, i think that Zaxis is right on the hitachi excavators performance. the isuzu engine is most efficient regarding the fuel consumption,( not half the jd s engine consumption as was said before, but better jd s).
The match between hydraulics and electronics achieved by the designers is one of the best in the excavators market. and that lower fuel consumption is a direct consecuence of that.
Remember, with the increasing of the oil prices, the cubic meters per gallon of fuel moved or digged by an excavator in nowdays is in most of the cases the main parameter to observe when you have to choose an excavator or other earthmoving machine.
the hitachis 200LC3 or the zaxis 355 i saw working on quarry sites, they just are reliable, fast and powerfull.
for me the better choice , with all due respect.
Today, there is not bad equipment: there is bad equipment support¡

beandrew said:

thinking of buying a john deere 690 e lc for farm dirt work (ditch digging, tree killing, and some trenching for tile. I have a 12 yard scraper and box scaper and a few tractors. What do you guys think of the 690 e lc or do you have any other ideas? I just find that 690 e lc's are very common here in nebraska and i could get filters and other stuff right from my john deere dealer. Another idea would be a john deere 200 lc newer model more money but is it worth it.

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I think the 690E will be fine for your needs. The fact that they are common near your location is a huge plus. No point having a faster excavator of some other brand if repairs are going to cause lengthy downtime due to lack of parts. I wonder where that engine appears in the agricultural line?
On a side note: My dad was one of the first contractors up here to buy one of the first 690's in this area. It was a 690-A. (with chain driven tracks and smooth crawler pads) I remember running it as a kid and having to stand upright on the travel pedals just to make it move!! He then moved on to two 690-B's in the early 80's along with one of the rare 890's. All three of those machines had the long levers that came out of the floor. The first Deere/Hitachi machines came out in the mid 80's (490,790,792) He bought two 790's and I remember that they were so fast compared to anything else we owned.

I've just found this site, and joined in. I agree a lot of valuable information here. I am just in the process of buying a 1993 - 690E LC. The gent I'm dealing with tells me he just had a new main pump installed at $10,000. This machine is slightly different. Some one put a spacer lift under the cab, and lifted it about 20" & added real nice cab guarding. I've run a lot of these machines a little over the years, (in 1963 I started out on line shovel Model 6 Northwest.) However I find all this information valuable. I own a tug&barge and move much of this equip. for WFP, Interfor & their contractors. I need the Deere for a little deac. I do for them. I also have a little case wheel loader on my barge for moving stuff around. I now also have to buya Kobelco Log Loader, for moving heli wood, (I'm trying to retire LOL.) I'll try to upload a couple of ineresting pictures. A load of logs on my barge in Bute Inlet, and a Deere log loader, (look at the cab) this guy was loading at the time. A slide came down and took him about 200 feet down a hill. Surprizingly he wasn't hurt. I've added a picture of a load of equipment where this deere loader was. This is the dry sort at Doc Creek, Burke Channel, originally the old M&B camp.

wildjer said:

Hi,
I also have a JD690E LC that I use for logging and road building on my woodlot. I have an on-going problem with power loss after a couple hours of operation when the machine gets up to max operating temp. It will affect all operations but especially the tracks or when more then one operation is going on at a time. Do you have any ideas or can you recommend a troubleshooting guide? Thanks, Jerry

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I bought this 690 a few months ago. I have it on my barge for loading logs, lifting stuff on and off, a little deactivation for Interfor now and then. I had this adapter made for my log grapple. I bought this Prentiss grapple from Hunt Tractor in Oregon. Here are a few pictures of what's going on. I also have a real nice brush rake. I'll leave a picture here as it is no good to me, in case anyone may want it........$3500.