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My D6D

R

.RC.

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
809
Location
Central Qld, Australia
Here is an unusual one.

They are D7 ripper tynes mounted on opposite sides of the blade of each machine. They were pretty effective. I only saw one tree pull them up in the forest country. Also be good for pulling trees away from fence lines.

Downside was they were also good at collecting vines in the thick scrub they were pulling, back in the day.

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Queenslander

Queenslander

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2009
Messages
1,262
Location
Australia
This is one of the most unique setups I have seen.
It was posted here some years ago by a bloke from WA and could be raised and lowered with the ram on the rear.
Might be the go for your 6way blade, Pony.:)
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R

.RC.

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
809
Location
Central Qld, Australia
Some general land clearing dating back a fair while ago now.

Eagle eyes might notice the 6C in the last three pictures, well if you look hard in the bogged photo, the blade lift rams are attached lower to the blade then they usually are. The contractor had another set of balls attached lower as the 6C/D did not lift the bull tilt blade very high compared to other models.

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G

Glum

Active Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2017
Messages
30
Location
South Africa
.RC. said:
Not sure yet how I am going to get the old one off the taper, I do not have a puller anywhere near big enough. I will have to make something.
Click to expand...

Use your C spanner and pipe to pull the big nut anti clockwise as far as you can, find a helper with a good eye and you each beat the tabs on the holder simultaneously with your biggest hammers (don't damage the holder or each other's kneecaps), repeat till it pops. Leave the outer nut on with some clearance to stop the holder going flying.
 
R

.RC.

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
809
Location
Central Qld, Australia
Finding a helper is my problem Glum. Making a puller should not be too hard, but I might first tighten the big nut and try a hammer. It may just pop off.

I did a bit of trespassing today and snapped this photo, The main 6" beam is 1500mm long, it looks about a good length.

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R

.RC.

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
809
Location
Central Qld, Australia
I got caught up with the tongue a bit today, but found some time to try to install the replacement outer support.

With glum's idea of tightening the adjustment nut, and then hit the holder with a hammer, I did that a few times, hitting the locking lug and it popped loose after a bit of effort.

I measured the small end of the two tapers and the new one is slightly smaller, maybe a quarter of a mm or a bit more.

Also a complete surprise is the effectiveness of those shields that protect the duo cone seal. It was spotless in there, which amazed me.

With this new part I also had to hit the inner bearing holder into the support with the soft hammer. It was just a good fit, the other aftermarket part it would slide in with a tad of sideways movement when in position.

Putting it back on I have probably gained 3-4mm sideways stickout witht he new part. I have some more shims here at home, so will go back tomorrow and install them and finish the job. I think I will get enough to stop the rubbing on the sprocket.

Photo of the old part, and then the new part installed.
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R

.RC.

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
809
Location
Central Qld, Australia
Well I finally got it all back operating today. Had a delay as I found the solid rod push arm that holds tension against the ider was bent. So that had to come out and straighten it. The chain no longer rubs on the sprocket and is back to about it was prior to the final drive rebuild so I am going to leave it as is.

As it is still not located where it should be but I do not care as it is good enough for an old machine with plenty of welds on the diagonal brace.
 
R

.RC.

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
809
Location
Central Qld, Australia
Now for something totally different, because I did not know where to put this, it does involve a D6 though.

Doing some fencing at the moment. Not liking that bloke Manuel Labour, some years ago I thought there had to be an easier way to ram up fence posts. Some research bought up these things called air tampers, available pretty cheap from China in various sizes.


Some experimentation later I found a modified D6 sized tamper perfect for ramming up fence posts just an air compressor to power it. Also sick of cleaning out the holes with a shovel after digging them, today I quickly wacked up a proof of concept hole cleaner that I sort of copied from a photo on the internet. It is a bit rough as I never had any 250mm pipe, so had some 8" pipe and cut and spread it out a bit. Certainly makes life easier.

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J

JAJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2022
Messages
184
Location
Australia
Occupation
Owner operator of small fleet
What type of fence posts are you putting in, timber ones or concrete?
That tamper looks like a similar idea to what we use to drive our posts in. We use star posts for our fences with 3” pipe strainers and end assemblies, we drive them all in with a “Picket Post Driver”. I think there is Chinese knock off’s now as well of the Aussie original.
 
R

.RC.

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
809
Location
Central Qld, Australia
Putting in rosewood posts, with a steel post between rosewoods. Some people around here have tried concrete posts. I do like the concrete post idea a lot, but these thin ones they use are brittle and just snap like carrots and at over $20 a post, last thing you want to see is are snapped off concrete posts.

We used to use iron bark split posts with our own timber, but all the good timber is mostly gone now. I have fences here only 40 years old and the timber posts are all snapping off.

I have a Christie Engineering post driver here I use for putting in the steel posts.
 
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