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Cat D7F 3306 making engine oil (suspect fuel from transfer pump)

LCA078

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2019
Messages
292
Location
Austin, TX
That looks like the pic. on a beer can but can't remember what brand.
The only recent one that pops into mind is Busch. Is that the one?

Ill give ya a hint, that is Mount Rainier!

Thats pretty much the view from my place.
That's an amazing view to have from the house. Usually when I'm up in JBLM you can't see Rainier that clearly from base but that day it was beautifully clear. Took that pic with my iphone just standing next to the airfield.

LCA078 Don't disappear on us we want to see how you make out. To many posters just disappear.

I'll do my best to take pics and keep this thread informative or at least entertaining. I've learned a lot from the experts here and it's a small form of payback to document how I used that knowledge to keep some old iron running. Hopefully it will help another owner down the road in the same bind.
 

nicky 68a

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2013
Messages
1,170
Location
england
On a different note,bearing in mind the pedigree of this tractor and its previous military owners,I’d be popping the hyd and tranny pump off and sticking seals in.
Not a big job and a very cheap one,
As to pulling the bearings out,it’s a rare tractor to find with such low hours.Just do it.Think of how happy you’ll feel knowing that the oil pump is good and that you’ve fitted nice new bearings on that std crank.
 

LCA078

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2019
Messages
292
Location
Austin, TX
Nicky- I'm guessing your suggesting this because if the seals leak on the hydraulic and tranny pumps, then those oils leak into the engine crank case?
 

tctractors

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
2,415
Location
Worc U.K.
To rotate the Main Bearings out of the top location all the main cap bolts need cracking open about a 1/3rd of a turn or possibly a touch more to give a few thou' gap only, then you remove 1 cap at a time to roll out the bearings, they can be started with a blunt screw driver then rotated out using finger pressure holding the bearing to the crank as you rotate, roll out the bearing and refit a new one refitting the cap to firm then ease the bolts a small amount, the Big end caps are marked with a rod I.D. number and also have an I cast on them that should be facing towards the front of the engine, the I mark is on both the rod and the cap on the same side.
 

LCA078

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2019
Messages
292
Location
Austin, TX
Thanks for the tips. I'm guessing trying to measure clearances with feelers or plastigage is kinda useless when rolling in bearings. I've only seen clearances being measured when block was upside down and the crank was resting on the block and not the caps.

I assume the best thing to do is install same size genuine Cat bearings, torque-turn bolts and verify crank rotates freely? I'm guessing the big ends may have a slight back/forth wiggle once tightened that gives some idea of clearance but the mains will just be what they are?
 

terex herder

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2017
Messages
1,815
Location
Kansas
I don't have any personal experience in surplus military equipment, but a local fellow bought one of those low hour Cat dozers, nearly perfect condition for low cost. He thought he hit the lottery. But the machine would leak like a sieve. As soon as he would get one seal fixed, a hose would blow. Then another seal would leak. Every rubber part was dry rotted. They finally parted the machine out. They made good money parting it out, but they still had to buy another dozer in the meantime.

I've been told Cat does all engine durability testing with the engine oil diluted 10% with diesel.
 

tctractors

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
2,415
Location
Worc U.K.
Thanks for the tips. I'm guessing trying to measure clearances with feelers or plastigage is kinda useless when rolling in bearings. I've only seen clearances being measured when block was upside down and the crank was resting on the block and not the caps.

I assume the best thing to do is install same size genuine Cat bearings, torque-turn bolts and verify crank rotates freely? I'm guessing the big ends may have a slight back/forth wiggle once tightened that gives some idea of clearance but the mains will just be what they are?
You are looking for knackered bearings and a rough crank, start with the flywheel end caps.
 

nicky 68a

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2013
Messages
1,170
Location
england
Thanks for the tips. I'm guessing trying to measure clearances with feelers or plastigage is kinda useless when rolling in bearings. I've only seen clearances being measured when block was upside down and the crank was resting on the block and not the caps.

I assume the best thing to do is install same size genuine Cat bearings, torque-turn bolts and verify crank rotates freely? I'm guessing the big ends may have a slight back/forth wiggle once tightened that gives some idea of clearance but the mains will just be what they are?
There are plenty of non Cat oem bearings available to but that are good and a fraction of the cost.
I’ve used Austrian Miba in the past and probably others that I’ve since forgotten
 

56wrench

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2016
Messages
2,133
Location
alberta
Plastigaging the mains can be done but it requires putting a hyd jack under a counterweight close to the one you are checking to support the crank in order to get an accurate result
 

LCA078

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2019
Messages
292
Location
Austin, TX
Plastigaging the mains can be done but it requires putting a hyd jack under a counterweight close to the one you are checking to support the crank in order to get an accurate result
Makes perfect sense.... and so obvious after you said it. Thanks for keeping it simple.
 
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