Willie B
Senior Member
I've had several styles. Current one increases trailer brake the longer brake lights stay on. Others have had a pendulum to increase braking based on how steep the hill is.
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2004 International 7300
- Thread starter materthegreater
- Start date
colson04
Senior Member
There is a HEF member that was working underneath a truck that had a slightly raised bed. He cracked a hydraulic line or valve while he was using his other hand to prop himself against the frame. Bed came down and crushed his fingers. This happened within the last couple years, 2019 or 2020 maybe. Definitely use a prop everytime the bed is up.
materthegreater
Senior Member
I remember reading about that. Not worth the risk
A number of years ago a local contractor was doing the same thing except he was leaning over the frame rails. I know several members of the fire department and they said it was the most gruesome sight they had ever dealt with. Left a family behind.
I stress this over and over with my crew, NEVER allow yourself under anything suspended by hydraulics. You can't undo the damage done by a moment of carelessness.
Keith Merrell
Well-Known Member
Wow that's a shame. Did he lose his fingers? Or just crush them badly?
colson04
Senior Member
Here is his thread. The member is @determined
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/stupid-stupid-stupid.90016/#post-983387
materthegreater
Senior Member
Since the brake controller will be in the cab, it makes sense to tie into the brake circuit close to the treadle valve I assume. Here's a picture of the valve. I'm not sure which line to tie into. Any suggestions?
mekanik
Senior Member
I would be hesitant of disturbing the push in connections on the foot valve as they may leak afterwards.
materthegreater
Senior Member
Ok, so better option would be to cut the line downstream of the valve and add a tee?
mekanik
Senior Member
Yes figure out which line comes from the delivery port to the rear relay valve.
A 1/4" line will be more than adequate.
A 1/4" line will be more than adequate.
materthegreater
Senior Member
Hitch installed.
Hitch plunger plumbing and trailer wiring done
Hitch plunger plumbing and trailer wiring done
materthegreater
Senior Member
Waiting on parts for the brake controller and tailgate latch.
materthegreater
Senior Member
Ok, today I got the brake controller wired and plumbed. But I'm either a complete idiot and connected something wrong or I'm not understanding the purpose of the check valve. Or maybe both!
When I apply the brake, the controller activates like it should, but with the check valve in the line, the built up pressure can't escape when I release the pedal, and the trailer brakes stay activated. It seems like there shouldn't be a check valve in the line, and then the pressure in the line to the controller can bleed off along with the pressure in the service brake lines.
Can someone set me straight on this?
When I apply the brake, the controller activates like it should, but with the check valve in the line, the built up pressure can't escape when I release the pedal, and the trailer brakes stay activated. It seems like there shouldn't be a check valve in the line, and then the pressure in the line to the controller can bleed off along with the pressure in the service brake lines.
Can someone set me straight on this?
materthegreater
Senior Member
First time hooked up to the trailer
mekanik
Senior Member
Can you post the installation instructions?
colson04
Senior Member
I like that setup. Short, maneuverable. Something like that would work well for me.
Do you have a plow for the front of the truck?
materthegreater
Senior Member
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materthegreater
Senior Member
Yeah, just a one way plow. Isn't much good for plowing driveways. I'm hoping to find an all angle plow for it at some point, or put some fisher push plates on it for my XV2
mekanik
Senior Member
Did the check valve come with the brake controller? can you post a pic of the valve and how its installed.
Was the truck plumbed by the factory for towing an air brake equipped trailer?
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materthegreater
Senior Member
It didn't come with a check valve. It said to use a two way check valve but you had suggested that I could just use the delivery line for the rear brakes since this truck doesn't have trailer air. The instructions say to use a regular check valve on older trucks with a single air system so I just plugged one of the inlet ports on the double check valve. But then I had the problem with it just accumulating air pressure in the controller line. I took out the check valve altogether yesterday and it works fine without it. I just can't comprehend why they call for a check valve in a single air system. I guess it would probably work properly with the double check valve if my truck had trailer air that I tied into as well.