I expected the fuzz...

Also let us know what goodies you find in the crap in the belly pans, might finally find Jimmy Hoffa!

Thank you Tctractor. I will definitely check the E-bar/engine block...

man....now I really want the belly pans off!! Or do I??? At the moment ignorance is bliss. Ohhh, think of all the wrenches/tools/Hoffa’s(!) I’ll find in that muck...

what’s the WHOA/GO on me starting/moving this up on some rough cut 2x10 planks?? Maybe Double-stacked, might gain 4-6” below...wish I had a couple railroad ties

Use the theory it ran/moved before, likely its “fine” (tough to say that with straight face)!!

Or just run the engine (and don’t put it in gear?) then block under the drawbar and use blade to get some clearance??

Now paying attention to how the drawbar dips down in the back...am I better off blocking up the blade too?? then slide the pans out the front??

scored a barrel today so drain pan(s) will be made and on the ready...

The belly pans if the bolts are not seized should come off easily. With my D6D, I have got to the stage I can pull them off and clean them within half an hour.
On this forum the idea was mentioned that if you put a strong strap connected to the track on one side, then under the guard you want to lift them back over the top of the track on the other side, then connect to a remote controlled winch or something (I use a remote controlled crane on my car), then with you underneath to balance the guard you can lift the guard up.

If i’m going to be under it, i don’t trust straps. I use chains or appropriate sized cable(definitely no clothesline lol)

.RC. great pics, and I see the hook-point/strategy; and 56wrench I have a steel cable come-a-long I’ll use on the front pan...which as it sits shouldn’t be terrible to get to (and I hope loose/off).
It’s the second pan further back (under bevel gear) that has the two bolts at the rear that look like a real bitch to access...
Rain is on the way, hopefully I’ll (atleast) get front off...

Block the blade up ,place the blocks under the push arms takes less blocks.
Put your cable under the pan and tighten it up.
Remove bolts from back to front.
lower pan and back tractor off of it.
Some of the rear pans were hinged at the back side.
These pans are easier to take off with a floor jack on a piece of plywood .
To jack the tractor up put at least 8 inch blocks behind the tracks and back the tractor up till the blocks are a little in front of the sprockets .
Pick tractor up with blade and put blocks under front idlers a little bit toward the back.
raise blade and block under push arms.
Now you can remove back pan.
Good luck
Bob

No tools or bodies in the pan below the engine...the cable come-along stretched under the pan, hooking from track to track is DEFINITELY the way to go...that bitch fought me the whole time(!)...I swear I heard a suction sound, it was puckered up around the oil pan. And if anyone is missing their leach field, I think I found part of it today; just muck! smelled it too. Once on the ground, I dug out 5 buckets of crap, then moved it off to the side. I’ve reached up and got about 1/2 a bucket of crap out of the nose cone (belly pan) section- but ultimately the rain ran me off...it’ll have to wait until next round...

defitely need more space to reach the rear pan; and today I saw back there- first, I’m missing the small access door in the rear skid plate; it’s no wonder it’s packed with stuff- my hull has a hole!!. Second a branch is wedged in between the rear skid pan, frame and a tranny line (suction?), and better, a damn good leak is happening there...glad I haven’t started it yet...

does get me thinking- when I pulled that screen/magnet-holder out, there was ZERO oil in that area...I was so focused on seeing what was on screen I didn’t dwell on it...isn’t that magnetic screen BEFORE the pump...I think I need to reopen that up and add oil, see what happens (I mean, how fast it leaks!)

Oh, I did look about the E-bar and didn’t see much; between the crap, minimal space and awful lighting, nothing jumped out at me...but it’s still early.

Miller time; thanks for help guys!

You can't pour oil in the screen fast enough to fill it up, the pump should pick up oil.
If your pump has a 9/16 plug towards the top remove it and crank motor till you get oil.
Tighten mounting bolt on generator before it falls off.
Bob

I dug out some old parts to give you a better idea of what you are looking at. The parts diagram will be difficult to follow if you haven't seen the inside of these transmissons.
These are on a D4 trans but the design will be similar.



Unfortunately the only way to find out if it is new or remnants from a rebuild is trans out and tear down.
Wouldn't think that a decent mechanic would have missed those remnants though.
And once you are in that deep it may as well be a proper rebuild including all bearings, seals, replacing worn clutch packs etc. Not something you'll want to do again any time soon.

Bluox great info and hear you loud n clear regarding genny bolt (I wondered if anyone was gonna see that!!)

Thank you Glum...motivated me to break open the books that came with the machine to do a deeper look...I had to jump around in the various “tabs” (sections), but I now see the oil flow and planetary config.

Once I realized majority of the oil would be in the bevel gear housing...I had to see what chunks I could retrieve. Since my drawbar dips down, I had to cut the 55 gallon drum only 10.5” tall...either way, about 12 gallons of oil came out; surprisingly it looks/smells (very) good and amazingly no bearing bits or metal (even on the drain plug!). I used a flexible magnet to reach up in the bevel gear area (especially near where the pickup is) and not one metal piece.

I still need to get rear belly pan off to drain converter, and at this point probably gonna pull the transmission filter to see if any chunks/bits show up there. Might just get a Napa filter to replace the old, but likely gonna look at it first to see.

To say I was shocked (to find no metal in the oil) is an understatement...but I know there’s still places it can “hide”

Likely going to get some tractor supply oil (not sure if I’ll get sae30 or “regular” 15w40) to run for a little while, then if nothing shows up in magnetic filter, I’ll dump/refill with TDTO.

Did get into the steering clutch compartments and see some “situations” there; but nothing that can’t be cleaned/adjusted. Never “good” when I went to remove the right-side plug, only to find it was packed/caked mud (friggen even looked like a plug!?!)...with some persistence I got majority of it out...but had me saying “come on man!!”

Still much to inspect/clean/repair but want to say thanks again for the help and pics!!

couple more pics-

can see on the rear belly pan, I’m missing the access door in the middle.

found a branch wedged up against the rubber union on the pickup line (going to magnet screen); think it broke the clamp on the right (it is leaking)...but need better access to redo it.

Close up of bevel drain plug and shot of drain pan (still can’t believe I didn’t spill any!?!)

Enjoyable reading D5 Dan.
Thanks for posting

Good chance of finding a 9/16 spanner in that belly pan

Just want to provide quick update to those who are helping/watching (this $$it show)- She made some (very short!) tracks.

Machine fired right up and runs decent (I “hear” an odd sound at low rpms...can’t tell if sticky injector, hanging exhaust valve, or exhaust gasket...)

Anyway, after finding no metal in trans fluid or filter, I refilled it with Tractor Supply fluid which says it’s a 10w-30 Cat TO-2 (and left the Cat trans filter in for now), all gears appear to work (shifting mechanism needs much more TLC). I’ll run this oil/filter for a few hours and keep eye on magnet filter...which by the way...I realize the previous owner had the wavy-washer UNDER the filter, so I opened it up (again!) and corrected the situation (plus goes back together MUCH easier!)

Doubt I’m outta the woods on the trans, but time will tell.

What now is taking top priority is the dirty steering clutch compartments...it had some moments where it was acting like it would clutch/steer...but it’s definitely not right. I started new thread to try to keep the points/questions focused.

The other advantage was I got the machine up on some 2x10’s and propped the blade up to make belly pan work more “fun”.

Radiator grill is coming off next so I can clean the crap outta the nose cone area and rad-fins

Thanks again to those who chimed in on this, I appreciate the direction/thoughts/“visuals”... you know, like the “swinging prostitutes”!?! LOL

Both the fuzz and the bearing parts together show there is a problem . Putting new oil in the transmission is not going to fix it . Its cheaper to pull the transmission and repair it before it fails completely .

I don't want to sound to contrary but the fuzz like that was in every dozer of that era that I ever worked on. The bearing parts might be some failure twenty five years ago. If it was in some steady state operation doing 80 hours a month and the history was tracked and known, then I might suggest a tear down. As it is, I would run it for a bit, check pressures when warmed up and then check for vibrations and sounds. Even if there is something gone south, what will it hurt to run on that old of a machine. Normally the trannys just lock up and the machine stops moving. The damage inside is already done.

John C. said:

I don't want to sound to contrary but the fuzz like that was in every dozer of that era that I ever worked on. The bearing parts might be some failure twenty five years ago. If it was in some steady state operation doing 80 hours a month and the history was tracked and known, then I might suggest a tear down. As it is, I would run it for a bit, check pressures when warmed up and then check for vibrations and sounds. Even if there is something gone south, what will it hurt to run on that old of a machine. Normally the trannys just lock up and the machine stops moving. The damage inside is already done.

Click to expand...

That leaves Dan relying on a slack service man not having removed the bearing parts after a transmission repair , which I doubt .

I agree with both of you!!

Remember, I went playing in the oil to find the rest of the bearing, and FULLY(!) expected to find something (and didn’t! Not even on the magnetic drain plug or sticking a flex magnet up in bevel housing). Granted, I did NOT do an oil analysis...but I was going to pour that oil back in (after “filtering” thru some cheese cloth)! Instead, my oil “splurge” is to sweeten my Karma points (the what if it’s old work not cleaned up).

I need to test the trans pressures, temps, recheck magnets, possibly do an oil analysis...then with new data points (or a trans lock up!?!), either complete the overhaul, or if no more metal shows up, then drop fluid/filter and continue to monitor.

I also forgot to mention I did R&R the broken clamp on the rubber union located on the main suction line from bevel housing to the magnetic filter housing...of course that raises a new question for me - was that union sucking air and oil supply suffered- hence bearing bits in the magnets??? Regardless, the union has been cleaned and clamps have been replaced with “regular” worm clamps…which if you look at the photo closely, the branch (hard to see) managed to wedged in between the frame/line/union and along the way (partially) broke the right-hand clamp. I haven’t looked to see what the “real” Cat clamps should look like, but given my unknowns at the moment, those are on the future to-do list.

I would double up on the cheap gear clamps until you can replace them with T-bolt clamps

John C. said:

As it is, I would run it for a bit, check pressures when warmed up and then check for vibrations and sounds. Even if there is something gone south, what will it hurt to run on that old of a machine. Normally the trannys just lock up and the machine stops moving. The damage inside is already done.

Click to expand...

Pretty much agree, I think I would do any checks you have in mind and run it a bit and pull the scree/magnets again and see what they look like.

Hate to accuse someone I don't know about being sloppy and not making sure all debris were cleaned out after a repair. But who knows what they were being told to do by the man writing the checks?

Truth be know there have been a few things I have done under orders from bosses in the past! Still feel a bit bad about a 988B that went to auction with the snapped off rear axle pinion shaft and rear drive line in tool box on left rear tool box! Iron Planet inspector did the inspection and did not notice it so I guess it's on him!