Torque Converter and...

[doghead]

Just a suggestion.

I read your thread and wondered what the backstory was. I looked for other threads by you and found what I was wondering about.

I don’t think most people will take the time to do that.

I think it’s always best to continue one thread on a repair.

Just trying to be helpful

 

[Michael Caravaglia]

A follow up thought: Does anyone know what the best type of drill bits are best for this project- Carbide, Titanium, or Cobalt?

 

[Vetech63]

The easy way is to cut a slot in the center of each bolt with a die grinder/cutoff wheel. Stick a screwdriver in the slot and back them out. Works wonders in most cases.

 

[Tinkerer]

Try a screwdriver like vetech says.
Use a carbide bit as a last resort in case you break off a softer bit in the broken bolt.
A true carbide bit is super expensive.
Masonry bits are commonly referred to as carbide. But, they need to be reground at different cutting angle to drill steel.

 

[Delmer]

The threads could be messed up, or they could be locktited. Don't sweat it if they don't come out easy.

Welding a nut onto them works almost without fail. The heat causes the bolt to expand, but it's restrained by the crankshaft, since the bolt is hot it is weaker and will "upset"/deform to fit the hole, then it shrinks, and also has a nut welded to it. In most cases it will move a bit and you can wiggle back and forth enough to get it to work out. Or you break it off and weld another nut on to try again. Smack the head of the bolt with a small ball pein hammer as soon as done welding, let it cool COMPLETELY, don't get in a rush when working them loose.

Don't drill them unless you have to, like the welding fails a few times. Welding up a hole drilled in the center will make the bolt shrink even better in my experience. Any good high speed steel drill bit should drill those bolts without too much trouble. You may need to resharpen, or use a few bits. IF they get dull without ever really cutting into the bolt, then you need a harder/sharper drill bit.

 

[Billrog]

A reverse cobalt bit would be best if you resort to drilling often the bolt will start backing out before you get very deep. If you weld a nut on the end you could get a can of freeze and blast the bolt with it to hopefully shrink it a bit. Regardless what ever you do it will take a bit of time and patience , best of luck.

 

[Michael Caravaglia]

The easy way is to cut a slot in the center of each bolt with a die grinder/cutoff wheel. Stick a screwdriver in the slot and back them out. Works wonders in most cases.

Unfortunately, 4 of the 6 bolts are broken off below the surface and are inaccessible to use a cut-off wheel. Also, the one bolt I drilled through yesterday is so tight that a bolt remover would not remove it without snapping.

 

[Michael Caravaglia]

A reverse cobalt bit would be best if you resort to drilling often the bolt will start backing out before you get very deep. If you weld a nut on the end you could get a can of freeze and blast the bolt with it to hopefully shrink it a bit. Regardless what ever you do it will take a bit of time and patience , best of luck.

I'm using a leftleft-handed (reverse) cobalt bi .

 

[Michael Caravaglia]

Who knew this would be so difficult? I had a welder come yesterday. No luck. I don't think he was the best technician, but the only one I could get to make a house call. Because the bolts are broken off slightly below the surface, he had a hard time welding a nut on. Any time he got one secured, it just twisted off breaking the weld.

Despite the warnings, I drilled one of the bolts today. I went very slowly and am confident I haven't damaged any threads (yet). My current challenge is I can't tell if I'm all the way through the bolt and now drilling my way into the crankshaft. The parts list says the bolt is 2-1/8" in length and I've drilled in to a depth of 1-1/4" and the broken bolts I retrieved from behind the crankshaft (the top halves) are between 1-1/4 and 1-3/8". This would seem to indicate that I'm all the way through the bolts bottom half in the crankshaft, yet I've seen no indication that I'm all the way through. I can't imagine that these bolts go completely to the bottom of the hole in the crankshaft, so there should be a break at some point? Thus far I just don't know if I have to keep drilling, or not. I tried tapping a bolt remover into the hole and loosening the bolt, but it won't budge. In fact, I snapped the bolt remover in half. Luckily, I was able to get that out of the hole.

 

[Billrog]

Now that you have it drilled get a can of Freeze (comes in an arosol can) to shrink it then use your bolt extractor.

 

[Michael Caravaglia]

I'm not familiar with freeze, but sure willing to try it. Is this product (link below) what you are referring to?

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals...eywords=freeze+in+a+can&qid=1583891694&sr=8-3

Thank you for your input

Michael

 

[Billrog]

That very well could be one type of freeze,the one I used was delivered to a garage where I was helping a friend and the first time I'd heard of it. I think they sell it in places like Lordco , Napa but Amazon would work for me to .

 

[doghead]

What size hole have you drilled so far?

 

[doghead]

Along with the old style spiral twist easy-out style tool, I have also had great success with the square type as well as his type. https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-53227-Multi-Spline-Extractor/dp/B0002SRG66

 

[jimg984]

doghead has a good very suggestion,,,i have set of the hex extractors from my NASCAR days be sure to use right bit size for each extractor GOOD LUCK

 

[Bill Edwards]

As they aren't turning I suspect they have been put in with Loctite.
You need a better welder on the job, and get them out while they are still hot (not glowing red, but hot) as this heat will break the Loctite.

Left handed drill bits are no good on anything that is loctited or seized in position, and extractors rarely work in this scenario either. Those tools are only effective when the broken bolt isn't stuck in position. The rest of the time, welding is the answer. It's less easy when they're below the surface but a good welder can do it, which I suspect is what you are lacking.

 

[Michael Caravaglia]

I agree completely Bill. I've had two welders here and neither of them has ever used this welding method. These bolts are in there so tight they almost appear to be melted in! So far, I've only managed to get one of them out.

 

[JL Sargent]

So far, I've only managed to get one of them out.

Did you the one you got out have evidence of locktite on it? If they are loctited in, then that loctite may very well have to be cooked out before the bolts can be removed. I just wonder if the crank bearings can take that heat.

 

[Michael Caravaglia]

Yes, I have the same thoughts about using extreme heat on the crankshaft. As for "loctite evidence" I'm not sure what I would be looking for. The bolt I'm currently working on just appears to be melted into the threads. It won't break loose no how. I've never seen anything like it. Of course, the machine is 37 years old!

 

[Tinkerer]

Sounds like you are looking at removing the crankshaft.
Next question is how much do you want to spend on it if it went to a machine shop, only to find out that those bolts are not coming out without damaging it into a non-usable piece of junk.
You can get a new or reconditioned one for $500.00 or less.
What do the flywheel bolt holes look like ? I'm guessing they are nasty.