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Everybody does it different

sled dog

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2014
Messages
343
Location
Hartdford City, In.
Thought I might show what works for me, and why. A one man one tractor operation, primarily clearing and fence rows. Everything gets burnt, so the less dirt in the pile the better. Everything is pushed to the fire with the rake. While pushing, I roll the push pile to shake out all the dirt I can, and to break it up and pack it tighter. Anything 6" and bigger I try to split. It burns better, and I got no root ball. I see the guys on here using the KG shearing blades, but for my application and area, I don't think so. I don't want roots or trees sheared off. Our soil takes years to rot the roots, and I want the farmer to be able to till or ditch right behind me. The splitter is 11/2 4140, built myself and improved on from past ones. I want to split, but not shear. Most bigger roots or pieces catch in the pocket between horizontal wedge/ brace and cutting edge. Pulls em right out. Splitter also lets me work right along side fence line. I can hook and turn and pull trees right away from fence. Also works to hook and control direction of fall. Rake was for a 7R, mounts modified to fit this F. On and off in bout 5 minutes myself. Wish the rake teeth were more vertical, has a tendancy to carry dirt. I can gain a little vertical by going bout 16 turns on the left blade brace. That helps. The rake was what we could find at the time, and is hell for stout. Just what works for me...20180811_110753.jpg 20180811_110808.jpg 20180811_110753.jpg
 

epirbalex

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2017
Messages
554
Location
Akitio
Occupation
peasant
Thought I might show what works for me, and why. A one man one tractor operation, primarily clearing and fence rows. Everything gets burnt, so the less dirt in the pile the better. Everything is pushed to the fire with the rake. While pushing, I roll the push pile to shake out all the dirt I can, and to break it up and pack it tighter. Anything 6" and bigger I try to split. It burns better, and I got no root ball. I see the guys on here using the KG shearing blades, but for my application and area, I don't think so. I don't want roots or trees sheared off. Our soil takes years to rot the roots, and I want the farmer to be able to till or ditch right behind me. The splitter is 11/2 4140, built myself and improved on from past ones. I want to split, but not shear. Most bigger roots or pieces catch in the pocket between horizontal wedge/ brace and cutting edge. Pulls em right out. Splitter also lets me work right along side fence line. I can hook and turn and pull trees right away from fence. Also works to hook and control direction of fall. Rake was for a 7R, mounts modified to fit this F. On and off in bout 5 minutes myself. Wish the rake teeth were more vertical, has a tendancy to carry dirt. I can gain a little vertical by going bout 16 turns on the left blade brace. That helps. The rake was what we could find at the time, and is hell for stout. Just what works for me...View attachment 184742 View attachment 184743 View attachment 184742
Far cheaper than a purpose built rake . If anything your tines are steep and would limit how much vegetation it could carry .
https://www.trademe.co.nz/business-...23.htm?rsqid=a70a82ecff234592b147695c4a765ffe
this fella paid 80 thousand to have them built .
 

td25c

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2009
Messages
5,250
Location
indiana
I see the guys on here using the KG shearing blades, but for my application and area, I don't think so. I don't want roots or trees sheared off.

That's all computer generated . It never happened . No one saw nothin and we aint talkin . LOL ! :D


Nice blade attachment sled dog ! :cool:
 
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