D5G Cat, parking brake won't release.

[Mark250]

Hi D5GDevo A couple of things to look at .The ECM controls the park brake solenoid and the override solenoid according to inputs to the ECM

Any of the items listed above can cause your park brake to stay applied. one that may not show a fault is the service brake limit switch
also you said that you had no faults in the dash did yo check the LED fault light in the fuse panel?

you can check your codes without ET by this method

you may have a broken drive plate which is some type of nylon, the rear pump supplies charge pressure to release your park brake. to check your charge pressures use the test ports shown

 

[Mark250]

using the implements wont give an indication of drive condition because the implement pump is driven of the right hand side of the engine

 

[D5GDevo]

Just to let everyone know what was wrong with my machine. I had to pull the engine and replace the nylon flange and hub that drives the hydrostatic pumps, it was stripped out. No electrical problem at all. Thanks for everyone advise and help.

 

[truecountry]

Just to let everyone know what was wrong with my machine. I had to pull the engine and replace the nylon flange and hub that drives the hydrostatic pumps, it was stripped out. No electrical problem at all. Thanks for everyone advise and help.

These guys here are the best ............Hats off to all

 

[Brady06!]

How do I determine it’s the drive plate before I pull the motor I have a d5g doing the same thing

 

[Nige]

How do I determine it’s the drive plate before I pull the motor I have a d5g doing the same thing

Define "the same thing" please. Do you mean the park brake won't release.?
Always good to start with a Serial Number.

Question: Do you know how to access Diagnostic Codes on the machine.?

 

[Brady06!]

Define "the same thing" please. Do you mean the park brake won't release.?
Always good to start with a Serial Number.

Question: Do you know how to access Diagnostic Codes on the machine.?

Sorry about that the break want release and we have no pressure on either hydraulic filter just trying to find a way to test the drive plate before we pull the motor

 

[Nige]

Take a look at the illustration in Post #22 above. There are two test points (#3 and #7) circled. If you have no pressure at those two test points then the drive coupling between the engine and pumps has failed.

 

[Brady06!]

How do I take the front hydraulic pump off on the right hand side of motor what do I need to do first

 

[Nige]

How do I take the front hydraulic pump off on the right hand side of motor what do I need to do first

Why would you want to do that.? The pump on the front RH of the engine only works the blade hydraulics. It’s nothing to do with the drive system or the park brake.

 

[Brady06!]

just trying to get the motor out to replace drive plate

 

[Nige]

just trying to get the motor out to replace drive plate

What's the S/N of your tractor.? I'll post up the complete procedure for replacing the coupling.
Be aware that the engine comes out complete with the drive pumps which are then split off afterwards to allow access to the coupling.

 

[Brady06!]

How do I remove the air duct to get bolts out to take the engine out

 

[Nige]

How do I remove the air duct to get bolts out to take the engine out

See my post above. Still waiting for a S/No.

 

[CM1995]

Brady I would suggest you follow Niges advice and post of a serial #.

You are in good hands following his advice.

 

[Brady06!]

Mhk18225

 

[Nige]

Mhk18225

That's the engine but never mind. The tractor is RKG03212.

Attached the procedure for removing the engine and pumps as an assembly to get you going. I'll post up more in a bit.

 

[Brady06!]

Thank you

 

[Nige]

So here is the coupling. The hystat drive pump is mounted on the back side of the Plate #3 and the coupling is on the front side. The two eyes on the back side of Plate #3 are the rear engine mountings.

This is why the engine has to come out, even with the drive pump removed in the machine there is no access to get at the coupling #1. I suggest while everything is disassembled that you check the Coupling Hub #2 is tight on the shaft. I seem to recall at least one case where the hub had slipped along the shaft and as a result the splines had disengaged from the coupling. It's a split hub that clamps to the shaft with an Allen bolt.

 

[Brady06!]

Thanks will let you know it need any other help really appreciate