I guess the rear end on my Autocar is made by these folks. Model number is SSHD, this tag is on the power divider. I pulled the yoke off then the casting that holds the seal and bearing race. Also there were thin metal gasket/shims between the casting. I tried to pull the bearing off the imput shaft with a puller and I pulled the wire that holds the roller bearings, now only the race is on the imput shaft. How do I get that race off its to tight to get the puller behind it ? Years ago I had a chip fly off a race and lost my sight in one eye now I need a better idea for this one.
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W.H.Cohen And Son Inc. ?
- Thread starter Autocar
- Start date
mitch504
Senior Member
That's a Rockwell, ( or Meritor).
Autocar, Seeing as you have exposed the race, take a welder, runa light bead around the circumference of the race. As soon as you finish the bead, the race should slip right off. Don't let it cool or it will be tight again. Make sure to use gloves. Another thought. If you have the front flange off already, the pinion gear should pull out of the housing. It has a bearing on the back end that may be a bit tight in it's receiver, but with a bit of jiggling and twisting it should come out. Then stand the pinion on a piece of woould and take a brass punch and drive the bearing off of the pinion. Will also give you the opportunity to check the back bearing while your in that far. The race in the flange can be removed with the welding method. Just run a light bead around the race, on the surface where the rollers ride, let it cool, and it should next to fall out.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
mitch504
Senior Member
If you weld make sure you hook ground to race so you don't get an arc where you don't want it.
willie59
Administrator
I agree with rigandig, if you have that bearing loading flange off the front of it, you should be able to pull the pinion shaft out. I'd much rather work on the shaft bearings with it sitting on a bench than still stuck in the stump. 
45LMSWM
New Member
Cohen and Sons is a used truck parts dealer in the Philadelphia area. They most likely rebuilt the differential at some point. Heating the race with a torch will get it to fall ff as well. Just keep the heat on the race, not on the shaft.
-John
-John
Ok I pulled it out of there [ pretty dang heavy peice ] then reach back and pulled the other end of it out. Pulled the out side race on the rear. Atcoequip is right about things come apart alot better on a work bench. I got all the rear bearing pulled off and the front race pulled. Also pulled the oil seal out,so in the morning I will see if I can fine all the parts,whats the luck finding those thin metal shims,there shaped just like the imput shaft face plate ? I tore one in half trying to get it apart before I wised of and took more apart, I am sure I can reuse it but if I can fine a new one I will go that way.
Just a update where I am at. I was able to get the oil seal which now is a two peice and the new imput shaft nut. But the bearings weren't available around here. So one outside bearing is coming from Chicago one race from Pennsylvania and the outside bearing to that race is coming from New York state. Said it would be five days :beatsme So made money last week this week use up what we made last week I looked up Timken Bearing Company on the internet they gave me the prices but when I called them they told me they only sold to dealers, which tickled me :tong
I looked up Timken Bearing Company on the internet they gave me the prices but when I called them they told me they only sold to dealers, which tickled me :tongYou can still get those shims. Check with your bearing supply store. Not sure what you took out, or how many, but you may be able to just buy the one ( to replace the one that's torn). You'll have to mike it to get the thickness. Wouldn't hurt to buy a shim pack. That'll give you an assortment of sizes to mix and match when you go to set your tolerance on the pinion bearing. If you have a shop in your area that rebuilds rears they may have what you need in stock.If that rear had been re-shimmed since the last rebuild, you may need more shims anyway. It can be a tedious process getting the correct pre-load, so patience is the word on that. Also, you should replace the nut that holds the yoke on. Not a good idea to re-use the old one. They tend to come loose when thay're re-used and there goes your bearing job down the tube.
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