Takeuchi TL130 Fuel stop solenoid not getting Power

[GaryHoff]

Medy,
Sorry, I didn't send you any service manuals. Did you still need one, or did you get your issue figured out?

 

[geroge]

good day i got me tl130 no power at any of the stop wires only ground wire solenoid ....12v coming into relays coolant and safteyhave 12 but no 12v coming out to solenoid

 

[geroge]

Where is the fuel stop solenoid on a TL140

its at the left hand side of the engine face fowrad in front the pump

 

[Juraan]

Why are all my wires from the stop solidnoid gettin ground

 

[Michael Graham]

GaryHoff
The shutoff solenoid engages but the hold in doesn't engage because the emergency relay is not closing. What would keep that from happening?

 

[B shemwell]

I’m having the same problem on a TL 130 it has no power on the hold wire

 

[giannid]

Fuse box area was corroded and I just had to run a new wire with the inline fuse. Checkbthe schematic.

 

[heymccall]

When I have issues with the hold wire not seeing voltage, or randomly losing voltage, I usually find one of the triple relays has bad solder joints. There are two, and they are the only relays that easily disassemble. You can resolder them or replace them.
Like in this thread vvvv
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/takeuchi-tl130-wireing-diagram.52612/page-2#post-913158

 

[B shemwell]

When I have issues with the hold wire not seeing voltage, or randomly losing voltage, I usually find one of the triple relays has bad solder joints. There are two, and they are the only relays that easily disassemble. You can resolder them or replace them.
Like in this thread vvvv
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/takeuchi-tl130-wireing-diagram.52612/page-2#post-913158

I’ve checked everything i know to check the fuse and fuse box I change solenoid checked the ignition switch swapped relays around , and still know power on the red hold wire , the white wire is working the way it should it has power for a few second’s but the hold wire is dead

 

[B shemwell]

Does any one no where the Red hold wire that connects to the fuel solenoid gets it’s power ?

 

[heymccall]

Attached is TL150 diagram. The hold comes through them triple relays, albeit just one part of each triple relay.

This diagram is close enough for what you're chasing.

 

[Stephen Doyle]

Attached is TL150 diagram. The hold comes through them triple relays, albeit just one part of each triple relay.

This diagram is close enough for what you're chasing.

heyMccall you always post helpful information. Thank you

 

[B shemwell]

lol, Ill take that as a complement.

Hey Gary could you send me a service manual on a 2007 TL 130 , please send it to bran_san@ymail.com

 

[TTW]

I'm still trying to figure out how you guys get to the BACK of the fuse panel. Mine is in the right hand "pedestal" under the stick control. I have the same problem. Installed a new solenoid and it would start with it being out, just to test that part after going to the trouble of lifting my cab to get to the thing. Went ahead and installed the solenoid and it'll crank but no start. Usually these type of sudden or intermittent electrical troubles occur where a wire terminates in a terminal inside a connector, or somewhere where it is subject to a lot of movement or vibration. As these machines age, the wiring gets hard and brittle and can break more easily. The ends of wires where they're crimped into a contact get badly corroded as they are very poorly protected which was my case. Mine wouldn't crank at all when 30 minutes before, it was running fine. Found corroded wire ends in terminals on a few relays in the kick panel so I cleaned all that and soldered the new terminals on. That corrected the no crank. Now on to T-shoot the no start problem.

 

[heymccall]

Fuse panel back side access.
Lift cab
Remove panel under seat
Undo instrument panel and let hang
Unbolt 4 fasteners on console
Unbolt panel fuse bank is on

 

[TTW]

Thank you for that. I got it out and found that the wiring on these machines are done a lot like an F-22, not much slack for future repairs or re-terminations of contacts inside connectors... At any rate, I found the large yellow wire had green corrosion on the backside of the fuse block. I checked it for power with a probe through the jacket of the wire and it was hot.

Checked that side of the fuse and nothing. Pulled the fuse and that leg had corroded off inside the fuse block. Now I have to figure out how to get that female end out of the fuse block so I can re-terminate that wire, reinsert it and install a new fuse.

I have never "de-pinned" a fuse block so I need to get at it with some sort of removal tooling I suppose but I just can't see it good enough to tell how these contacts are locked in there to accept a fuse. When I get this all done and running, I want to edit these posts with the photos I took so it helps the next feller.

 

[TTW]

I bypassed the block like the last guy did with an inline fuse, the entire contact had corroded out. Fixed that yellow wire with the light green on the other side and it still won't crank. This is the most tempermental machine I've ever worked on. It cranked fine when I changed that stop solenoid out but failed to start unless I took the solenoid out. That's why I changed it. However, it would crank BEFORE I took the fuse block out and even would with it laying in the floor and now suddenly, it won't hit a lick at a snake. I have a higher serial number so the wiring diagram where the light green wire goes is not the same as the original posters machine. I'll have to print this diagram out on something larger than printer paper so I can see it and figure this out. Presently, I am fixing obvious stuff and will just have to keep poking around until I figure this junker out.

 

[TTW]

Found another power wire in a connector rotted out of its terminal, just turned into green goo. I cannot find replacement contacts for any of these connectors on this machine. Takeuchi dealer wants to sell you a harness so this makes 6 wires I have had to install butt or spade terminals on to bypass the connectors/fuse panels they are in. I would like to know if there is a way to test the "Safety Relay" while I have it in my hand? I can hear the starter (which is brand new) try to do something then stop. I'm thinking I may have a start switch maybe going bad or the safety relay. I took the relay out and found no corrosion in the connectors which was a first. Probably because it is protected by a rubber cover where it bolts to the frame. I also took the assembly out of its case and everything is spotless inside so it was sealed good. I cleaned the burned coil contact with an ignition file and want to bench test it before I order one. Any tips???