mg2361
Senior Member
Engine serial number below 499999 uses CTM6. Above serial number 500000 uses CTM42
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Slobbery Deere, blowby question
- Thread starter fast_st
- Start date
Engine serial number below 499999 uses CTM6. Above serial number 500000 uses CTM42
Thanks, looks like the model/serial is RG6076T100571 Will see about digging up the ctm6, Thanks!!
So Deere sells the manual with a 2 week printing lead time for around $100, some joker on ebay is selling one or trying to for $245, bite me. I found a PDF online for free from a training school in Mexico, I'm learning so that counts. I'll run to Staples and save my toner for later, and I have a hard time with double sided printing. Punch it for a 3 ring binder and be done with it. So checked the oil pump and it's well within spec with maybe 0.0015 of play out of an allowed 0.006, no chipped teeth or scuffing so it'll get re used. The oil tubes in the pan are fretted, likely from vibration, the flywheel and crank damper had piles of concrete-ish dust packed in there, a good shovel full between the two.
The Son of Boston Fuel injection is going over the injection pump, Diesel's fuel injection repair in Bow NH. Hillside Machine shop in Malden is polishing the crank and rebuilding the head as well as fitting the bushings to the rods and honing them. Hillside is getting the rebuild kit for about the same as internet list price, under 2k for the kit and will get the price for the machine shop work. Diesels estimates $1500 to go all through the injection pump, could be +/- depending on condition.
Even though this machine gets maybe 100 hours a year at the most, the engine will be brandy new ish! The engine I'm taking down is not far from a soup sandwich, it was likely supplied by a rebuilder so i have found a few issues.
1) cam gear not fully seated on cam, allowing the cam to walk the gear into the front cover and skewing the timing retarded by 1/4 tooth or so.
2) injection pump timing not set correctly, likely due to #1
3) speck of dirt beneath a main cap bearing shell showing as a worn spot on the shell itself.
4) hammer dent on the front cover mating surface.
5) injector lines not clamped.
6) missing 3rd sheave on crank pulley (local mechanic error perhaps, belts all askew)
7) dent on oil pump mating surface, possibly allowing a leak, lapped flat on surface plate.
8) strings of silicone sealer in the coolant system.
Engine block blasted with EZ-off and let soak for a couple hours, all galley plugs and bearings removed., hot water pressure washer and hot soap used
to remove all grit, grime, paint and everything from the block inside and out. Hot block blow dried and coated with wd-40.
Next step is running a solvent brush through all the galleys and getting the block ready for crankshaft test fitting once all the goodies are in from the machine shop. I even like to mop the floors before starting an engine assembly as a reminder to be clean about everything and not miss a step.
The Son of Boston Fuel injection is going over the injection pump, Diesel's fuel injection repair in Bow NH. Hillside Machine shop in Malden is polishing the crank and rebuilding the head as well as fitting the bushings to the rods and honing them. Hillside is getting the rebuild kit for about the same as internet list price, under 2k for the kit and will get the price for the machine shop work. Diesels estimates $1500 to go all through the injection pump, could be +/- depending on condition.
Even though this machine gets maybe 100 hours a year at the most, the engine will be brandy new ish! The engine I'm taking down is not far from a soup sandwich, it was likely supplied by a rebuilder so i have found a few issues.
1) cam gear not fully seated on cam, allowing the cam to walk the gear into the front cover and skewing the timing retarded by 1/4 tooth or so.
2) injection pump timing not set correctly, likely due to #1
3) speck of dirt beneath a main cap bearing shell showing as a worn spot on the shell itself.
4) hammer dent on the front cover mating surface.
5) injector lines not clamped.
6) missing 3rd sheave on crank pulley (local mechanic error perhaps, belts all askew)
7) dent on oil pump mating surface, possibly allowing a leak, lapped flat on surface plate.
8) strings of silicone sealer in the coolant system.
Engine block blasted with EZ-off and let soak for a couple hours, all galley plugs and bearings removed., hot water pressure washer and hot soap used
to remove all grit, grime, paint and everything from the block inside and out. Hot block blow dried and coated with wd-40.
Next step is running a solvent brush through all the galleys and getting the block ready for crankshaft test fitting once all the goodies are in from the machine shop. I even like to mop the floors before starting an engine assembly as a reminder to be clean about everything and not miss a step.
eastroad
Well-Known Member
Busted top rings was a common condition on the 8.1 Deere engines. Often the top land was broken, too. I was told they moved the top ring up on the piston to help reduce emissions. They changed strategies later on ?? maybe because the top land became wider and stronger. We had several low hour piston/ring failures at the Ag dealership I worked at.
terex herder
Senior Member
Replace the fretted oil pump tubes. They are very difficult to get to seal once removed.
If i recall, deere kits used to come with high temp o-rings(brown or maybe orange?) for the tubes. Some kits may use the common black ones and they eventually will likely get hard and not seal the tubes very well. You may have to get the o-rings from deere to get the correct ones
Engine has been in service a while. Made a custom cylinder liner driver / installer as well as a cam bearing tool. Having a lathe is a blast. Deere parts online was able to get all new oil tubes and o-rings, and a few calls to some dealers had a set of cam bearings coming, a dealer in ohio had 10 on hand. I'm glad Deere has their inventory locate services.
Runs well for certain now, can't see anything coming from the blowby tube.
Now we're replacing hydraulic lines, that gets expensive fast!!
Runs well for certain now, can't see anything coming from the blowby tube.
Now we're replacing hydraulic lines, that gets expensive fast!!