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Rock protection

tootalltimmy

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2008
Messages
397
Location
Okanagan Falls B.C. Canada
When I get my gravel truck on the road I probably will end up hauling rocks a time or two. I am interested in protecting the bottom of the box from hard drops.

One idea I read about on this forum was a wooden layer of 2x8's bolted to the floor. The other suggestion was welding angle iron to the floor in strips.

Angle iron would be more durable, wood cheaper.

What do you think?
 

Paystar

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2008
Messages
253
Location
Ontario, Canada
Occupation
Retired trucking owner/operator
I worked on a highway job with mine hauling blasted rock. I didn't have to worry about weight and scales and this was a temporary thing. I took it in and out when needed. What I did was the 2x8's on the floor. I had the first batch cut full length (20 feet). Welded flat bar across the front by the hoist tunnel to hold them down. Used angle across the rear. Also used a router to notch the ends of the boards so as the rocks slide out, they could not catch the angle and tear it up. Soft wood worked as well as hard wood. All your wear will happen at the rear and we worked 12 hours a day, five and six days a week for about 6 months. About half way through, the rear was wore down pretty good so we cut it at the half way point of the box and just re-did the back half. Welded flat bar across the joint (again countersunk into the boards). When it was time to remove, grind some welds off and out it comes. My friends used the same method on their side walls, but I had a Beauroc (junk) Diamond Line box with curved sides, so I welded studs all along the top rail and hung conveyor belting like a curtain. Worked perfect. Ya, lots of work but a hell of a lot cheaper than a liner, and when it's out still had my light tare weight. Sorry no pics though (I don't think anyway, I'll have to check when I get a chance).
 

KW318

Active Member
Joined
May 25, 2009
Messages
40
Location
Deep South
We have used 2 layers of 3/4" plywood, it wore pretty well, and as holes started to wear we didn't lose whole sections of boards, just layers of the ply's. They were bolted down using large fender washers. They proved to be very durable, and replacement was easy. The layout of the sheets kept the joints from being over each other.
 

RobVG

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Messages
1,028
Location
Seattle WA
Occupation
17 excavators and a stewpot of other stuff
What is your box made of?

I've worked for 3 rockery companies so far. In the old days we would weld 2" angle on the bottom and the sides spaced about 8" appart. This worked well but atfer a year you would have to section out pieces that were damage.

We started to spec boxes with T-1 which held up better. Now most companies have switched to AR400 or "Hardox". It holds up really well but is expensive.

YouTube - Dump body Lanau industries: Why Hardox steel for our dump body?

A round tub will get less abuse than a square sided one and rocks are less likely to stick and tip you over:D

Another good Idea is to get to know the loader opperator at your quarry. Find out what he likes to drink and bring him a 5th or a case once in awhile and he'll probably take more care in loading you.
:drinkup
 

RTSmith

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Messages
421
Location
Middle Tenn.
Occupation
Amateur demolition & dirt pusher
How large a rock do you have to get to start seeing damage to a bare steel bed?
 

RobVG

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Messages
1,028
Location
Seattle WA
Occupation
17 excavators and a stewpot of other stuff
How large a rock do you have to get to start seeing damage to a bare steel bed?

You start to see damage from 3 to 4 man rock. Rock size is subjective. The larger one's in the video would be 5's and small 6's. The smaller ones, large 3's and 4's. If you can only haul five rocks in your load- they're large 6's. It also depends on how far they're dropped. Watch out if your loaded with an excavator with a thumb.

One other thing, after two years or so, even with AR400, the cross members between the rails will bow. It can get so bad that if you have a single bar working both gate latches, the bow will cause it to bind. Not much you can do about it except cut bigger through-holes.

Something to keep an eye on.
 
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Kgmz

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2007
Messages
308
Location
Portland, OR & Eatonville, WA
Occupation
General Contractor
The problem with angle iron is that sometimes dirt, etc. won't slide out as easily.

When we bought our Peterbilt the previous owner was hauling exclusively for the Core of Engineers hauling rock for river and stream erosion control, dikes, etc. So he had angle iron strips welded in the box. This was in a Sturdy-Weld steel box. We replaced it with a Sturdy-Weld aluminum box.

My 2006 Kenworth has a tub box that is all Hardox material with the interior being Hardox 450, and so far it seems you can't hurt it. I have hauled concrete from demolition jobs, and hauled some big rock for the Core last year after the floods. I don't know what size you would call this rock, but they could only get 2 in the box and I have a 17-19 yard box. Also hauled a lot of 3-4 man rock.


Forgot to say,

I still have this Sturdy-Weld steel box if anyone wants to buy it. It's a 15'6" 10/12 yard classic tapered box.

Attached is a pic of a new Sturdy-Weld tapered box, and they still make them the same way.
 

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Furthur

Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2010
Messages
18
Location
Poughkeepsie, NY
we try to have the loader op put a small load of 3/4" crushed stone or subbase aggregate in first to act as a barrier, just a couple ton.
its easier than installing a liner of some sort & even if your paid by the ton on your haul, the price per ton to haul boulders should cover the cushion agg.
 
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