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NEW TO ME CAT 931B - WHICH OILS FOR TRANSMISSION, BEVEL GEARS, FINAL DRIVES, POWER SHIFT?
- Thread starter MX45
- Start date
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Which counterweights are you talking about? I wasn't aware of rear counterweights other than the sprocket counterweights or bucket counterweights or counterweighted idlers for use with a backhoe. I could be mistaken though. I remember from the brochure the ripper used it own control as did the 4 in 1 bucket. I'm curious if the person you bought it from added the ripper section or it already had it. As far as adjusting the brakes I've mentioned a simpler way to do it as was told to me by Bob/Ont who was Cat dealer mechanic and absolute guru on these machines. You could find it in the archives. It's a little long to type out right now.
Hi, I read the brake thing and then could not find it. I did a whole lot of unnecessary work lifting the wrong cover. Once I found the adjuster under a smaller cover I managed to get a 9/16 socket on a wobble bar and turn it Clockwise quite a few times to left the pedal up. Successfully as the pedal and drives work correctly for the few minutes I tested them in forward and reverse.
The counter weights are in a packed set of five and bolted together. There are cut outs for it to fit. I will attach photos in a few days.
The rippers assembly data are in the other post inquiring about my serial no details for the CAT. They are specifically designed for the 931 as I understand it. Photos in other thread as well.
NB I could not find or see the underneath brake band adjuster and since it was only rebuilt 150hrs ago I made the call that the top adjuster would be enough to solve the issue without creating others. I did notice that the adjuster I would say had high and low tension points as I turned it but did not click like a vehicle brake adjuster that has the wheel and teeth? I imagine it could unwind under pressure and so maybe that is why the pedal was low, but only surmising.
The counter weights are in a packed set of five and bolted together. There are cut outs for it to fit. I will attach photos in a few days.
The rippers assembly data are in the other post inquiring about my serial no details for the CAT. They are specifically designed for the 931 as I understand it. Photos in other thread as well.
NB I could not find or see the underneath brake band adjuster and since it was only rebuilt 150hrs ago I made the call that the top adjuster would be enough to solve the issue without creating others. I did notice that the adjuster I would say had high and low tension points as I turned it but did not click like a vehicle brake adjuster that has the wheel and teeth? I imagine it could unwind under pressure and so maybe that is why the pedal was low, but only surmising.
OzDozer
Senior Member
MX45 - Ahhh, sorry - my misunderstanding here. I thought you were discarding the SPROCKET counterweights - which is what I really am after. I already have the plate counterweights on the rear of my tractor.
The sprocket counterweights are useful as additional stabilising to the 931B when you have the bucket raised.
Dave - These are the standard rear counterweights on the 931B when there's no equipment hung off the rear of the tractor.
The sprocket counterweights are useful as additional stabilising to the 931B when you have the bucket raised.
Dave - These are the standard rear counterweights on the 931B when there's no equipment hung off the rear of the tractor.
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Welder Dave
Senior Member
On the brakes you have to make sure they aren't dragging. The machine should coast if you drive and pop it in neutral on flat ground or on a slight incline. In theory and maybe when new you might hear a click when adjusting the brakes. There is a flexible metal piece that that runs against a star wheel type deal. There should be round pipe like protection rings around the brake support bolts underneath. The bolts are a square head with a jam nut to keep them from moving. If you don't have those, you likely have wet brakes. I can't remember if you've mentioned the types of brakes. It's really important the brakes don't drag if they are wet brakes. They will chew into the drums. The easy way to adjust the brakes is to take the rod off that goes to the hump on the clutch compartments then tighten the brake bands up snug, not real tight just snug. Also snug the support bolts underneath and then back them off about 1 and 1/2 turns. With the band snug shorten the rod going to the hump as short as possible that you can still get the pin in. The pedal should be all the way up. Now loosen off the brake band adjuster to get the proper pedal travel about half way down. This should also be about 1 1/2 turns. Then test the brakes and make sure the machine will coast in 2nd gear when you pop it into neutral or on a slight incline. I adjusted mine after having the clutches rebuilt and new brake bands installed and haven't had to adjust it in 3 or 400 hundred hundred hours so I don't think they need constant adjusting.
I never really thought too much about the rear counterweights since I have a backhoe and the brochure I have shows a machine with the backhoe brackets. It certainly explains why my machine is light on the rear with a full bucket of clay without the backhoe. The 4 in 1 bucket only makes it worse. I need to remount one of the sprocket counterweights. The sprockets aren't Cat and have torched holes for bolting the weights on but the holes are a little big for the washers that were made. I'm going to make some larger washers so they can't pull through the holes. I almost had the weight fall off so I took it off. Not a big priority with the backhoe on but I want to fix it. Had to torch the bolts off because I used Loctite and it's a bit of a pain getting at the bolts.
The ripper is specific to the 931 and D3 machines. It seems amazing that the previous owner of your machine could just find one. One thing I like better about JD machines is the ripper and backhoe both use the same mounts so you could have both attachments and not have too much trouble switching between them.
If I didn't have the backhoe on I'd tip forward with a heaped bucket like below. Might even with counterweights. I thinks it's about 1 3/4 to 2yds. of moist clay.
I never really thought too much about the rear counterweights since I have a backhoe and the brochure I have shows a machine with the backhoe brackets. It certainly explains why my machine is light on the rear with a full bucket of clay without the backhoe. The 4 in 1 bucket only makes it worse. I need to remount one of the sprocket counterweights. The sprockets aren't Cat and have torched holes for bolting the weights on but the holes are a little big for the washers that were made. I'm going to make some larger washers so they can't pull through the holes. I almost had the weight fall off so I took it off. Not a big priority with the backhoe on but I want to fix it. Had to torch the bolts off because I used Loctite and it's a bit of a pain getting at the bolts.
The ripper is specific to the 931 and D3 machines. It seems amazing that the previous owner of your machine could just find one. One thing I like better about JD machines is the ripper and backhoe both use the same mounts so you could have both attachments and not have too much trouble switching between them.
If I didn't have the backhoe on I'd tip forward with a heaped bucket like below. Might even with counterweights. I thinks it's about 1 3/4 to 2yds. of moist clay.
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HI, all good then as they are the rear counterweights for sure. The ripper assembly came from a machine/parts supply company and was obviously sitting out in the weather although brand new as paint had faded but still warranted by the dealer. Looks fine in operation. Yes, the machine rolls in reverse and first down a slight incline readily and brakes are pretty even. Content they are as good as it gets. I think the brakes are dry brakes as no fluid in compartment with adjusting rod except some condensation.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Sounds good but there should be the support bolts underneath. I've read of some people leaving them out so water can't accumulate in the clutch housings but I think dirt, mud and other debris is then going to get in there. Taking the bolts out occasionally to check for water is a better idea. I mostly keep my machine parked inside now I have a pole shed. Theoretically the compartments should be sealed but I think heavy rain and especially snow piled thick can still find the smallest little unsealed area to get in. I also try not to drive in deeper puddles for the same reason. When the brakes are working properly it's a nice productive loader. Obviously with a backhoe heaped buckets aren't a problem. I can overload a tandem dump truck with 6 buckets like the 1 in my previous post.
Yes, I acquired the CAT to re-establish one route on my property about 350meters and cut at lest three pads, one being for the shed which will house it and all my other tribe of machinery, etc. Should have built it more than 21 years ago but did not have the foresight. I hope to get that done sometime in the next year to be complete. First is the road to be able to get standard vehicles to the pad site for the house. Then cut the shed sites and the machinery shed first. I am close to the coast so getting stuff out of the rain save a lot of maintenance time on rust prevention, treatment.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
I should have put up my shed a lot earlier too but sure nice to have now. Organizing though is another huge issue.