Need to get a little info if possible.

[carogator]

attached is diagram of regulator showing the safety valve seat. Can anyone tell me how to remove that seat? Has anyone here worked on one of these?

 

[walkerv]

attached is diagram of regulator showing the safety valve seat. Can anyone tell me how to remove that seat? Has anyone here worked on one of these?

Not having worked on one before first make sure you can actually buy that part then get it in your hands and look at it to see how its shaped and how it may possibly come out

 

[funwithfuel]

I thought the same, but having 0 experience with that, I didn't want to send him on a bad road. That is how I go after just about everything different. Take it apart, put it together and see if you gain "bonus" parts. Lol.

 

[carogator]

I already have the seat, and there is nothing to hold it in except tight fit, I think. My situation is that what I see in the chamber looks just like the seat, looking from the top. That being a chamfered seat. It actually looks like it already has a seat, but it could be destroyed by trying to remove it. I would hate to mess up what can't be fixed, and I don't need to put in another one on top of the original.

 

[walkerv]

I already have the seat, and there is nothing to hold it in except tight fit, I think. My situation is that what I see in the chamber looks just like the seat, looking from the top. That being a chamfered seat. It actually looks like it already has a seat, but it could be destroyed by trying to remove it. I would hate to mess up what can't be fixed, and I don't need to put in another one on top of the original.

If the sealing portion of the seat doesnt look bad dont touch it then .if it chewed up mess with it your worst case scenario is buy a pump , if you dont feel comfortable doing what your doing take your pump and the parts you got to a shop that works on pumps.

 

[kshansen]

Any chance of knowing what make that pump is and maybe a model or part number off it?

Could be with that information one could find a different break-down or instruction manual from the pump manufacture instead of a not too clear parts book picture.

It does appear that item number 4 holds it in place, did you get that #4 out?

 

[John C.]

Why do you think you need to replace the seat?

 

[carogator]

That is a Clark shuttle shift transmission pressure regulator. Fluid comes into regulator , through the pump #21, through the filter assy., and back to the torque converter. As shown, New Holland/Ford 6500, pressure regulator. No markings on it.
#4 is a spacer, in different versions of transmission, it can be inverted. It will just fall out with spring and safety valve.
Problem is , losing prime overnight.

 

[John C.]

The usual reason in my experience is the pump has lost some of its efficiency and is allowing oil to drain back to the sump. Taking time to catch a prime is also and indication of a pump problem.

 

[carogator]

Okay ! That is useful information. Thank you and everyone that took time to look and answer. I guess I will be pulling and getting the pump tested.

 

[kshansen]

I know it can be dangerous to try to comment about a machine that one does not have personal experience with but one thing I would be looking at is anything on suction side of the pump.

A small leak anywhere could cause a pump to be slow to pick up its prime or loose it sitting over night. Not saying this is your problem but something to at least be thinking about while looking over the system.

 

[partsandservice]

I am familiar with this clark pump/ regulator set up, it was used extensively in the Timberjack skidders. I would think a leak in suction would prone to be your issue. IMO concentrate on the gaskets between the regulator and converter and between pump and regulator and filter housing seals, and the shaft seal. Also the orings on plugs under the roll pins. As mentioned worn pump. Other wise all other possible suction leak are internal piping and gasket between converter housing and trans case.

 

[carogator]

I am familiar with this clark pump/ regulator set up, it was used extensively in the Timberjack skidders. I would think a leak in suction would prone to be your issue. IMO concentrate on the gaskets between the regulator and converter and between pump and regulator and filter housing seals, and the shaft seal. Also the orings on plugs under the roll pins. As mentioned worn pump. Other wise all other possible suction leak are internal piping and gasket between converter housing and trans case.

You are the man I need to ask for some answers. On the converter housing where the regulator mounts, the tube for suction looks in diagrams to extend from the housing about a 1/4 inch. On mine the tube is almost flush with the housing. It only gives a very small amount for the o-ring to seal.
How to remove the seat for the safety valve.
I will really appreciate any help you can give.

 

[partsandservice]

The suction pipe is rolled it the housing and does not need a orings seal around the pipe . The suction seal is the gasket. It had been many years since I have dealt with one of these. I don't know what to do about the seat, but i don't feel like it hah to do with the suction leak. I seem to recall the side with the seat you are trying to remove is the flow control for the torque converter. The other side is the pressure regulator.

 

[carogator]

Can you possibly remember one of those Timberjacks that had that setup? I might be able to find a parts diagram w/part numbers. I know some Clark forklifts use a pump that looks just like mine.

 

[partsandservice]

TJ 450b with clark 2800 trans
TJ 450c with clark 3200 trans
TJ 380 b and c
TJ 460 32000
On the TJ the transmission filter is remote mounted.

 

[partsandservice]

This the diagram for a 460c Timberjack, it looks the same . What kind of material is the seat made of? A rig with an extended tap and pull hammer may do it. Maybe a picture of the new seat?

 

[carogator]

Unable to determine what seat is made of, but it appears to be metal. Round, about 1/2" wide, 1/4" thick, and countersunk to match the bottom of the safety valve, flat on the bottom. Button on safety valve seats in the countersink. The seat looks great, but I don't want to ruin it and not get it out. I think I will concentrate on suction leaks and or pump. I have removed whole assy. and will start closely checking everything. The only markings on pump looks like a casting # 233282R. put there when cast. Will keep you posted.

 

[Volvomad]

If you freeze it down with easy start or the like and knock the (inverted) pump about a bit would gravity and/or a good magnet do the job?

 

[carogator]

That sounds like a great idea! I already tried dropping the housing on a chunk of wood and it didn't work. But freezing it first could really work.
I forgot to say in the description that the seat has a 1/4" hole right thru the middle of it. An ez out might work but I think it would ruin it.