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Need a clutch. Self adj or not?

Canadian_digger

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Oct 31, 2007
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811
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Ontario
I'm going to need to replace the clutch on my 2003, 330 Pete. It's has a cat C7 and a 9 speed.

My mechanic told me to get a regular clutch and not a self adjusting one. I'm not sure why. What would be the pros and cons of both.

It has a standard clutch in it now. It is not worn out. It is seized and can no longer be adjusted. And the pedal is getting near the top.
 
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Truck Shop

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Dec 7, 2015
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Personally I would put a new Eaton manual adjust clutch in it. I like the manual adjust because I can set the free play where I want it
or if it has a regular driver-where he wants it. Given that it stays with in the parameters for the clutch to operate properly.
If it were me I would only install a new clutch, no reman.
 

02Dmax

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2007
Messages
687
Location
MO
My experience has been that the self adjusting ones give out much quicker because they get seized up and stop adjusting and start slipping.

Some of the manual adjusting ones can be adjusted with an air hammer after you can't turn them manually. I don't know what application the truck is used in but I always make sure the bottom inspection plate is in place. Those keep a ton of dust out if you work in much dust.
 

Canadian_digger

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Oct 31, 2007
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811
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Ontario
Mechanic Tried the air hammer. Dust cover is in place. Truck is a single axle dump truck use mainly for hauling around backhoes on a tag.

Thanks for your response! Keep them coming!
 

02Dmax

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Dec 4, 2007
Messages
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MO
I'll agree with truck shop. Put a new Eaton manual adjusting clutch in it. As long as you keep it adjusted correctly it should last you a long time.
 

WaterDoc

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Nov 2, 2010
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Toronto
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Complete water system disinfection services
Yup, avoid the SOLO self adjusting clutches. They still require all sorts of manual adjustments and seize up something fierce.

Go for the standard 4 button double plate. The Pete probably already has it, but if not make sure the mechanic puts on a extension hose for the grease nipple on the throw out bearing. Used to see alot of trucks with the inspection plate on the housing and the input shaft dry as a bone. Some grease monkeys don't even know there's a grease nipple in there.
 

DoyleX

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Feb 2, 2013
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572
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Minnesota
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Lever Puller, Gear Jammer, Pipe Twister
Ive had both, a brown lipe 2250 self adjuster and new not reman 4 paddle ceramic manual adjusters. Everything gets the new manual adjusters now, set em where you want and drive. The lipe is by far the best feeling with heavy loads clutch but im not running 700++ horsepower anymore. It is a very well built setup and works for a while if you anti sieze the shaft and rings. Then adjusting becomes complicated and time consuming. I have seen them last 2 seasons truck pulling with 1200 horsepower, unfortunately 2000+ horsepower in a kta will smoke it in about 50 feet.

Setting a clutch should be to any driver like setting the brakes. Pull the inspection cover, bump the starter or move with a bar to get the adjuster within reach, get out your 5/8, have somebody push the peddle half way down and then give it a couple turns in. You should have at least 2" freeplay at the top of the pedal. Mostly preference as to where it engages. Grease the throw out bearing a few pumps at every oil change on a road truck, dirt trucks get it half way through.
 

kshansen

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Mar 11, 2012
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Central New York, USA
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Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Setting a clutch should be to any driver like setting the brakes. Pull the inspection cover, bump the starter or move with a bar to get the adjuster within reach, get out your 5/8, have somebody push the peddle half way down and then give it a couple turns in. You should have at least 2" freeplay at the top of the pedal. Mostly preference as to where it engages. Grease the throw out bearing a few pumps at every oil change on a road truck, dirt trucks get it half way through.

Missed one important step in my opinion. If you are having another person in the cab holding the clutch down. Remove the keys and put them in your pocket. Very few people I would trust to do otherwise.

Most of the trucks I had to adjust the clutches on it was a easy thing to push down the clutch and slip say a 3/4 nut between the peddle arm and the stop. That way did not need the second person.
 

Truck Shop

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Dec 7, 2015
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I install clutch's that are always in a higher torque range than the engine puts out. All of our trucks are 1850 torque engines, so I install 2050 lb ft clutch.
And even if it's a 1700 torque engine they get the same. Eaton #208925-25 easy pedal with a SB-200 clutch brake. I just keep that clutch in the shop.
It's only $125.00 more for a good clutch. We get about 600 to 700K out of one.
 

mike in idaho

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Joined
Nov 22, 2012
Messages
58
Location
north idaho
There is one thing sometimes overlooked, when adjusting a new clutch: you adjust the linkage(if needed) to get the clutch brake set properly, then adjust the clutch center for the right amount of free-play.
 
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