My 580B can not even move!!!

[Phil]

Forgot the picture

 

[diggerdone]

My neighbor's 580B wouldn't move either. I adjusted the clutch pull rod that is attached to the clutch pedal making it longer. Worked fine for 2 years. Must have got clutch wear on it, another guy adjusted it incorrectly, making it shorter, and then it wouldn't move again. The owner brought it back to me. I got mad, took a cutting torch to the clutch pull rod, cut it in half, and now it won't stop moving. Seriously, adjust the pull rod longer, not shorter. Give it some slack. Most big trucks have pull clutches just like the most 580B backhoe, not push clutches.

 

[Rip3196]

Hi Phil,
I appreciate all the help you have given us. I have one more question. Where is the gasket material coming from and do you think we will have problems with it again? Do you have the dimensions for drilling a hole and installing a plug under the screen if we have the same problem in the future.

Thanks,
Rip

 

[Phil]

Good question as to whether or not you will have a problem again. Depends on how well you clean the bottom of the torque tube out. The only deteriorated gasket I have ever seen was the shuttle cover gasket. Someone made it too big and pieces were falling in. Silicone is bad for oozing out of a joint and later falling in.

Someone may clean the old gasket surface and pieces fall in, such as on the starter housing gasket. Although I did replace the leaking engine to torque tube gasket on a B model and there was hardly anything left of it. The 2 upper studs had loose nuts.

It's not likely that the adapter plate gasket or the trans to torque tube gasket would be a problem. I have re-attached a picture of where I would drill and tap for a large pipe plug, sorry no measurements. I have never done this but heard of it being done. The pump pick-up screen is the width of a finger, off the bottom. The casting is about 3/4"-1"thick and is well rounded on the inside also. Phil

 

[Tinkerer]

Phil, Your comment is absolutely true about using silicone on gaskets. What is your preferred gasket compound ? Is there anything that will make a good seal and still allow disassembly without destroying the gasket ?

 

[Phil]

I use the sticky, goey, dark brown non-hardening aviation type sealer. I can still get it at the automotive store. I use it on many types of head gaskets(but not all), also on all flat castings. If disassembled within a few days, the gasket will not tear, but over time it's like silicone, you never know.

Tin valve covers, oil pans, and thin aluminum housings all get the black silicone, but very sparingly. One has to be aware of every opening sealed around, and it's purpose, when using silicone.

Locktite offers several products, like the 515 housing sealer, and the common 'red' loctite, that I use occasionally where there is no gasket. Phil

 

[jak]

Case 580B with mechanical shuttle

Hello, I am new this, so I hope I am doing it right. I am working on a Case 580B with mechanical shuttle about 1973. The clutch is shot, so I am replacing it. I put in new clutch, pressure plate, bearings, seals and refaced the flywheel. The manual talks about adjusting the release fingers on the pressure plate using a "Case" gauge I don't have. It also states that... "the fingers can be adjusted without the gauge. The height from finger tip to the face of clutch cover should be 2 inches". My question is where on the clutch cover should this measurement be taken?

 

[Phil]

Finger height on those pressure plates are factory set, I believe. I'll check my manual tomorrow and see what it says. Phil

 

[Phil]

Jak,
You are quite right. The manual refers to the very rear(as installed) portion of the stamped metal cover on the pressure plate assembly. It might be irregular, with a few humps and bumps for the spring bosses, so just lay a straightedge across it and measure down in the center 'hole' to each finger. This measurement is checked after installation.
It's important ,of course, that the height of the 3 fingers is the same. Lacking the A37956 gauge, eye-ball it as best you can, when centering the clutch disc, then bolt the pressure plate down evenly. Back the adjustment off on the clutch linkage so that the throw-out bearing is at the rear of it's travel. If you have trouble engaging the spline, try putting the tractor in gear and turn the flywheel. Phil

 

[Joe G]

I have a 580B and have the don't move problem also, worked on one many years ago and it was the pinion in the rear end, might be this problem with mine but, I remove the transmission top and can reach in and move the bottom shaft a lot, bearing out I think so work that just began, this is going to be a long and costly project for me but when done it will be worth it, hope other come out better that me, Joe G.

 

[s1120]

Lots of great info in this post!!!! Im a new owner of a 580ck, and I know they are diferent, but lots of info in this thred that lets me understand how the system works!!!

 

[Phil]

Joe G,
Remove the seat and floor boards, take the diff cover off and look at the ring and pinion gears. If the pinion shaft is as loose as you describe, there won't be much left of the gear teeth.

I can't think of a more difficult job, on a 580B. If your pinion is damaged, you will have to split the tractor. You will end up spending a lot of time inside the cab. Phil

 

[Joe G]

Phil, thanks for the reply sorry that I took so long to answer, I was hoping that it was the pinion gear only but when I reached in the transmission and could move the bottom shaft I knew it was going to be more than just a simpe pinion which is probably broken also, that would be the bearing in the rear of the transmission out, at leaste hope so, once I remove the hoe, front end, rear wheels, rear end the the transmission sounds like a piece of cake, well at leaste labor is free, hope parts don't kill me, thanks for you help, nice to be able ask someone that know, will keep you posted and will take some pics for the fellow like me who have never done it before, take care, Joe G.

 

[bigskyelliott]

had same problem. i thought the dipstick/filler tube under front of the seat was the transmission and was putting hydraulic fluid into the differential. it takes 85/90 gl4 gear oil. the dipstick under the steering wheel takes hydraulic/trans. fluid. now to the water in the transmission. i went through several attempted fixes and alot of $$$ before i found that most 580 have a transmission cooler built into the bottom of the radiator. from my research in the archives found its a common problem with our model. if you have anyway to pressure test do it. if cooler is bad phil gave me some great advise. the 2 lines coming from your filter housing ( front of radiator, bottom right, 4- 9/16 bolts) going into the bottom of radiator are your trans. cooler lines. buy an after market trans. cooler and by-pass the radiator/ trans. cooler system to the new after market cooler. the built in cooler is 10 inches so i would not go smaller. the bigger the more cooling.

 

[malin]

thnakx for sharing great picture thread.........keep it up all the good work

 

[jak]

Sorry about jumping into your thread... but a while back I saw where someone had come up with a way to fix worn out steering spindles with a pvc tubing sleeve. Any idea where to find that post?

 

[allniterunner]

Newbie needs help

Ladies and gentleman of HEF,
Short time 580 CK owner, shorter time lurker. Man, I wish I’d known about this forum before I’d taken the plunge and bought my backhoe. I’ve spent a lot of time reading the various posts and in particular this thread. The amount of knowledge and help available here is so unbelievable I hope I don’t embarrass myself. So here’s my problem, I have many, but according to the rules I need to post 3 times before I can start a thread. My 580 CK loses power in both forward and reverse. It starts to move and then stops when I attempt to pick up a load. In the picture in post #7 of this thread, there’s 2 plugs with dipsticks.
#1(trans-axle) takes 80/90 and #2 (shuttle) takes TCH. What is the level of fluid on the dipstick? Do you check with/without the engine running? Can I substitute ISO 46 for TCH? I have a picture of another plug, under the gas tank, but about 8” behind the starter, that someone mentioned was for timing purposes, or is it for filling the torque convertor? I’ll try to post it.
Thanks in advance for any information
jim

 

[Phil]

Welcome to the forum:drinkup:drinkup
"What is the level of fluid on the dipstick?" About one inch from the end of the dipstick(s), is a mark. That is the full mark.
"Do you check with/without the engine running?"" With engine stopped.
"Can I substitute ISO 46 for TCH?" Shouldn't, the oil Case recommends is suitable for use with clutches.
"I have a picture of another plug, under the gas tank, but about 8” behind the starter, that someone mentioned was for timing purposes, or is it for filling the torque converter?" For timing purposes only. The converter will fill itself, if it has been disassembled; the compartment around the converter will fill(to it's level) within a few minutes, after a shuttle oil change. Hence the shuttle oil level should be rechecked after about 5 minutes of running and oil added if needed. Phil

 

[allniterunner]

Thanks Phil

Thanks for the information. I bought an Ebay CD owners manual and most of the information deals with keeping everything greased, so any additional help I can get is welcomed. Is there anywhere that I have to add tranny fluid? And if so do I use Dexron(sp)?
As allways any help is greatly appreciated.
jim

 

[Phil]

Runner,
I think both your questions refer to the use of ATF in your backhoe. I don't think Case calls for it's use anywhere, but I could be corrected, I don't have the operators manual here with me. Someone here on the forum has used ATF in their shuttle compartment with good results in cold weather, to help alleviate sluggishness. I have topped up power steering reservoirs with it. Phil