This is everything I have...
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/mzkhy958xi4isje/AAD-Zia6ZoL4VXffkdPXCeyXa?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/mzkhy958xi4isje/AAD-Zia6ZoL4VXffkdPXCeyXa?dl=0
-
Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!
Mitsubishi MM40SR
- Thread starter Fordzilla
- Start date
Thanks Fordzilla for the information. I am tackling a unit that has been butchered, to put it mild. In the monitor, diodes CR18 and CR17 have been cutout. Looks as though the leads were soldered together. The buzzer was completely removed, window for led readout was painted over(black). Also a collection of moisture. I think the monitor was bypassed several owners back, so I am starting from scratch. Info on the monitor, Tokimec 45018347 mon-B, 45018366 Mon-A( the two cards making up the monitor).
I opened the controller, no external identification. It seems to be running, displaying codes on two display segments. Does anyone know if these are the codes transmitted to the monitor? If anyone has changed/updated controls, I would be in the market for the monitor. Opinions and suggestions?
I opened the controller, no external identification. It seems to be running, displaying codes on two display segments. Does anyone know if these are the codes transmitted to the monitor? If anyone has changed/updated controls, I would be in the market for the monitor. Opinions and suggestions?
Graham Hamilton
Active Member
In the spirit of giving out information on these Mitsubishi MM series excavators (MM50SR, MM40SR, MM30SR) I’ve started to put all my information on my website www.woodandtrees.co.uk which you are welcome to access.
It includes the MM50 electric diagrams, fault finding and error codes that “tool_king” and others have posted, Parts Manual and SL series engine operation, maintenance and service manuals. There is also some other stuff on my own machine MM30SR and information from “IronDino333” on ram seals.
If anyone has more information (or write ups on what they have done on their MM machines) and are willing to share, just contact me via messages and I’ll add it to the site.
Hopefully this is useful.
Graham
It includes the MM50 electric diagrams, fault finding and error codes that “tool_king” and others have posted, Parts Manual and SL series engine operation, maintenance and service manuals. There is also some other stuff on my own machine MM30SR and information from “IronDino333” on ram seals.
If anyone has more information (or write ups on what they have done on their MM machines) and are willing to share, just contact me via messages and I’ll add it to the site.
Hopefully this is useful.
Graham
Josiah olsen
New Member
Fordzilla, thank you so much. We just got a Cat 305.5 SR-2 and it was having all the issues you described. I followed you step by step and got it running again.
This was after a local mechanic "fixed" the issue. It had stopped working 20 minutes after we got it back to our property so I decided to take a crack at it.
This was after a local mechanic "fixed" the issue. It had stopped working 20 minutes after we got it back to our property so I decided to take a crack at it.
lesaint100
New Member
i have the same issue, after water came into the monitor panel, i change a capacitor burn, but i will try your methode to by pass this control panel, that i never use
an update
I came to the conclusion my unit was no good as it was so I dug in. One thing learned, the control panel must have power/led/display on for the unit to have any function. On the schematic I have the bypass button has two wires one to the small remote unit and one to the main computer unit. While tracing out, found only one wire going to small remote. On separating the two boards. They were held together with a soldered in pin header. The first pin I cut with dikes pushed the printed circuit land from the board. This was no good. Found a fine tooth saw in a hobby kit and sawed the rest of the pins into with no issue. Moisture had gotten in the unit and the backs of the boards had a lot of crud on them. Cleaned this up. Had coil leads broken loose from board. re soldered. Went over the board with rtv anchoring capacitors and coils in place. Decided to power up and trouble shoot. Mounted boards on plastic where I could get to the back and front. Soldered leads in to take place of header.
Powered up. Display and leds lit up. HEY THIS THING MIGHT WORK! It did. after abut two months Success. The folks from this forum sent prints and info to make this possible. Thanks
I came to the conclusion my unit was no good as it was so I dug in. One thing learned, the control panel must have power/led/display on for the unit to have any function. On the schematic I have the bypass button has two wires one to the small remote unit and one to the main computer unit. While tracing out, found only one wire going to small remote. On separating the two boards. They were held together with a soldered in pin header. The first pin I cut with dikes pushed the printed circuit land from the board. This was no good. Found a fine tooth saw in a hobby kit and sawed the rest of the pins into with no issue. Moisture had gotten in the unit and the backs of the boards had a lot of crud on them. Cleaned this up. Had coil leads broken loose from board. re soldered. Went over the board with rtv anchoring capacitors and coils in place. Decided to power up and trouble shoot. Mounted boards on plastic where I could get to the back and front. Soldered leads in to take place of header.
Powered up. Display and leds lit up. HEY THIS THING MIGHT WORK! It did. after abut two months Success. The folks from this forum sent prints and info to make this possible. Thanks
Attachments
Graham Hamilton
Active Member
Great to hear you got this working. When water gets into these things they can become impossible to fix. So great job. If you have the time to write this up in more detail I'll post it on my website (www.woodandtree.co.uk) where I have a few articles about fixing problems with these machines.
gggraham
Senior Member
here you go
Can you send the manual for Mitsubishi mm40-55sr please. Here is my mail RomanO_Best@mail.ru
Can you send the manual for Mitsubishi mm40-55sr please. Here is my mail RomanO_Best@mail.ru
GORCZAKOWSKY
New Member
Hi! Is it possible that any of you know what CR17 and CR18 diodes are? I have TOKIMEC 45019347 and it's broken so much that I can't read anything.
TheVermonter
New Member
To remove the the rotary position sensors from system you need to take 2 2K ohm resistors and make a voltage divider. The voltage value will be about 2.5 volts. Solder one end of one resistor to the 5 volt line, next connect both resistor to the signal line and last connect the other end of the second resistor to the ground line. I'm still looking for the schematics for the MM40SR myself. I hope this helps someone!
Oldironrevived
New Member
I got sick of trying to fix one after another problems with my 98 MM40SR computer positioning sensors and monitor I spent $375 to be told my monitor was fried and couldn’t be fixed and no replacement to be found by a high priced reputable repair company I got ahold of Tony-IMDynamics he fixed me up with a MM-R16–3 it bypasses all the original stuff all it uses is your original joysticks and the valve body I just put on in my machine today I am back in business no thanks to Caterpillar I live in the United States and they don’t recognize these machines
Graham Hamilton
Active Member
Great to hear you got your machine working again. It's good to know there are options to get the computer replaced, as I always wonder what to do if it breaks. Do you have any pictures of the new setup and advise about the installation?
Oldironrevived
New Member
It comes with all the information to install the unit you need to change the connectors on your spools no big deal it comes with all the hardware Tony is very knowledgeable I had to get the joystick voltage reducer because my joysticks were designed for 5 volts it’s not a cheap change over but when you think you’re going to have to scrap the machine it’s worth every penny these are a few photos that I took before I started the project I removed all the old computer hardware I could including wiring to the spools and joysticks and any wiring that went into the main wiring trunk I just unplugged them this makes the install much cleaner a that I have to do left is program the spool power witch is in the installation guide everything is working great on my machine now if you need any other questions answered let me know
Attachments
maximumtechnology
New Member
Hello could you possibly provide this documentation again please? My dad's machine is experiencing the same problems. It's a mm55sr.. as well
maximumtechnology
New Member
Were you able to obtain any info or documentation on the mm55sr?? I have one as well. That needs this help.
Thanks in advance.
Graham Hamilton
Active Member
Have at look at https://www.woodandtrees.co.uk/ This is where I've put all my information on these machines.