LS170 starting issues

[KennyDtrajan]

Thanks for the reply stovein. I'm thinking maybe the starter relay is my problem. It seems like a relay issue the more I think about it, but not the interlock in my case as "service" mode doesn't work either. I've heard of a diode problem as well, but I don't know if it applies to a 2000 model.

 

[stovein]

Have you tried quickly turning it to start several times like you would with a car with a sticky solenoid? My starter interlock relay would kick in if I tried it over and over but I didn't try that at first.

 

[Zack6353]

Hi Everybody
4/11/2011 Just signed up, Cappy29 seems to be the man w/ New Hollands. I would be much appreciated if anybody can help. I see alot of other people have an electrical problem. Heres mine.
Using the machine all is good, hit a large bump & machine dies, but outside headlamps still on, instrument cluster dead, won't start or even turn over, 5 amp fuse in rear fuse box blown. After some time of searching I take the over head cluster out. (Left of key) it has 11 pin connector & a 14 pin connector & also costs over $800.00 to replace. On the back is a capacitor the size of an M80 firecracker. It was not connected to the back of (what I'm told) EIC board. So I resoldered to the board replaced the fuse & waalaa. I "THOUGHT" it was fixed, moved about 5 feet & boom dead again. Replaced the fused & as I put it in, POP. I'm told that the board is no good & need to replace, is that something anybody else experienced & am I being told something that is not correct! I'd like to know before I lay out $800 & still not be the problem. Thank you in advance to anybody that can help. One of the best pcs of equipment I own, raelly never had a problem with it!

 

[Cappy29]

Zack6353, That capacitator has been known to break off on the the old style cluster. That tells me we are looking at a LS series unit or an older LX series. What model unit are we talking about? I am assuming the 5amp fuse is for the EIC, as per the back of the fuse panel cover. And yes I know what people say about making assumptions. First thing I would do is double check the repair of that EIC. Verify that the solder job is good and not making any EXTRA connections. Then I would see if it still blows the fuse, with the key off. If so, disconnect the two connectors from the EIC and install another fuse. If it blows the fuse with the EIC disconnected, the short must be in the wiring and not in the board. After that, I would bo a little bit more investigating as to the conditions when the fuse pops. ie: key off and it blows as soon as you install fuse, fuse blows when key is turned to the run position and so on. After all a few fuses are alot cheaper than a new EIC. Good luck and let me know what you find. Cheers.

 

[Zack6353]

Hi Cappy29

Thank you for your prompt reply, 2001 LS170, yes 5amp EIC fuse you are correct & fuse does not blow when key is off & I will check if it does that with board disconnected. Is it possible that capacitor is bad & is that what caused the machine to stop running. You seem to be very knowledgeable & I would assume a mechanic for these. The 1st time I soldered the capacitor back on, it ran like normal, used for about 10 minutes & the fuse blew. The capacitor didn't fall off so I thought it was a bad capacitor or my solder job wasn't good. So i removed the capacitor & tried again. Put all together, turn key on "POP" I took to an electronics store & was told if the capacitor was no good the back end that is impressed with an "X" would be bulging out.
1. Would the machine still run w/o the capacitor
2. Do you know if the board would still be good w/ replacing the capacitor
3. If need to replace board, any place you would recommend
4. What's your opinion on refurb boards
5. What is the best time your on the forum
I greatly appreciate your help, My 2011 start has been not good & finally secured a job & now I'm dealing with this. Although I really can NOT complain about this machine, its been great to me. Besides human error, the only problems I had is the emergency brake & a hose that runs from transmission to the back, thru the chasse that rubbed a hole in the hose. So I spliced right there & now the couplin is in the chasse thru way. I guess the bushing wore out to cover the steel edge. The emergency brake is a whole nother issue. The screw to loosen the arm broke so I can not loosen to adjust. "HUMAN ERROR" I snapped it of somehow.

 

[Pausha]

Hi Cappy29
I have a LS170 has been running great but today all of a sudden the 15amp ignition fuse in the engine bay fuse panel blew. it took me a while to find it put a new one in and away i went till i hit a bump then blew the next one.
DSo far i have blow 6 fuses. i have checked all the wiring while motor is running to try and make it stop. it seems to be when i load the machine up skewing and lifting with all hydraulics. Please help very frustrated!!!!!

 

[Cheesie]

I have a lx665 with same problem replaced EIC board safety interlock still blows 5 amp fuse when in run mode

 

[stovein]

replace the hydraulic sensor back by the filter, they seem to fail pretty regularly. Not sure if you just uplug it if that will work or not.

 

[stovein]

disregard that last post. I was on the wrong page.

 

[Cheesie]

Found the problem it was a control valve solenoid after new seat belt harness, EIC board, and safety interlock relay were installed

 

[cliffg50]

ls 170 starting

Had the same problem with my ls170 ended up being the acc. side of the ign. sw. It kept blowing ign. fuse, I'd check that . I went through all the same steps you did until I unhooked the acc. wire and it hasn't done it since. The down fall is the lights don't work. I've learned to live with it, if it becomes a problem I'll direct wire them with in line fuse and separate sw. Hope this helps . Cliff

Hey guys,
new to the site. this is my first useful post. i am here asking for some help regarding my LS170. i was running it as usual and all of a sudden it quit on me. at first i thought i jolted so hard the key turned off bc thats what it sounded and acted like. but when i looked up the key was in the On position. i quickly noticed that there were no dash lights on as usual, if nothing else than the seatbelt light flashing. also, i was getting a continuous beeping. i tried jumpering both the seat switch and the seatbelt switch thinking it could have something to do with it. that was a no-go i think it is an electrical issue but i am not familiar enough with this machine to track down an electrical issue. can some of you seasoned NH mechanics assist?

Machine is a New Holland LS170 2006 rubber tire skid steer

Thanks,
Jason

EDIT: here is a pic of my machine actually the same day i began to have problems:

 

[NCPIPELINE]

UPDATE:
ok so after running the machine a few times i finally tracked down the problem. i was out yesterday doing some site prep work and it kept shutting off on me. i finally got pissed and started hitting the fuse panel and dash. it quickly recovered from shutting down! i removed the dash panel and low and behold a wire was loose on the end of the connector. i had to solder a lead wire from the pin to a butt connector so i can remove the wire later if needed. after plugging in the loose wire and buttoning everything back up she has been golden

-cutts-

Sounds very much like what my C175 did. Above head and to the right there is a fuse panel. The way the panel mounts to the cab is at an angle, when securing the panel is pushes some of the connections of the fuse block at a bad angle. Had to solder a few and the problem has gone away. BUT on another time it was the interlock relay causing similar issues. ELECTRICAL :drinkup